Changing oil

peters44 · #1 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 07:07 AM

How often do you change your oil?
Besides putting the car on a lift what is the best way to get under the oil pan?
I jacked up the front end to get under the pan on my first oil change but thought it would be easier driving the front end up on some blocks? Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Peter

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peters44

Besides putting the car on a lift what is the best way to get under the oil pan?

I put mine on 2x10s -- it gives you plenty of room and is pretty safe from collapsing (don't forget to chock the rear wheels). Of course, I still manage to spill oil all over the driveway....

rdorman · #3 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 07:41 AM

Myself in my street driven (IE, not raced) car, every 3000 or once a year which ever comes first with a filter change in between. Get a mighty vac and never get under the car again for oil (depending on pan configuration and dip stick location). Or get some ramps from the local parts store.

peters44 · #4 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 08:50 AM

Thanks Patrickt for the picture thats what I was thinking.
Rdorman, will the front of the cobra go up the metal type ramps you can get at any parts store without bottoming out on them?

rdorman · #5 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 08:54 AM

I bought the 'plastic' ones and no problem. My car sits very low. Of course you could just drive it there and see!

Roscoe · #6 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 10:06 AM

I use the Aeroquip quick drain fittings. No muss, no fuss, just snap the coupling on and drain. Also, you won't have to keep taking the drain plug off and eventually strip the threads.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero4.htm

Sal Gerace · #7 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 10:47 AM

Why is it that when I remove my oil filter from my remote filter the oil drains out and spills all over. Is there pressure built up in the remote setup? Is that normal?

rdorman · #8 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 11:00 AM

Sal, normal

Roscoe · #9 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 11:02 AM

I usually put a plastic bag over the filter before I take it off. Cuts down on alot of mess.

Roscoe

Sal Gerace · #10 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 11:18 AM

thanks guys

wtm442 · #11 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 12:37 PM

Overflow of the oil filter when removing is usually that part of the oil line(s) to the remote cooler or block is higher than the filter.

I just changed my synthetic Red Line oil at 5K miles. It was BLACK and I was pleasantly surprised that there was nothing stuck to the magnetic drain plug. Oh, and I only spilled about 1/2 a quart on the ground.

65cobra1 · #12 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roscoe

I use the Aeroquip quick drain fittings. No muss, no fuss, just snap the coupling on and drain. Also, you won't have to keep taking the drain plug off and eventually strip the threads.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero4.htm

That part looks like a great idea...I'd like to order one before I make my next oil change then have it ready to install.

Any idea of the thread specs on an SPF 7 qt Canton oil plug?
Thanks, Ivan

Roscoe · #13 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 01:00 PM

Don't know the thread size for the Canton pan. I have the Milodon Road Race pan. Maybe someone here can answer that question or call Canton.

Just permenantly attach a short hose to the blue part and it drains right into your drainpan.

It's really one of those "gotta have" parts.

Roscoe

BDHE · #14 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 02:59 PM

Gents;

Eric at Performance Engineering just pulled a plug out of a Canton oil pan for me, checked it, and says they use 1/2 - 20 threads.

Bryon

Ant · #15 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 03:32 PM

Roscoe,
Great tips with the benefits of your experience!

peters44,
Have you got a friend with a hoist, as with this type of car, its a real good idea to wipe down and have a good look at everything and if necessary run a spanner over, checking for leaks and potential problems!

peters44 · #16 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 03:45 PM

Yes Ant, I have a couple places to lift the car to go over everything.
Rosco, thanks for the Link. I'm going to find out what size I will need for my Roush 402.

65cobra1 · #17 (**permalink**) 06-13-2007, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BDHE

Gents;

Eric at Performance Engineering just pulled a plug out of a Canton oil pan for me, checked it, and says they use 1/2 - 20 threads.

Bryon

Thanks, Byron...'preciate the help.
Ivan

Snakebit · #18 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 02:14 PM

I like the plastic bag over the filter to prevent oil from dripping on everything. I've tried those quick coupling connectors from Fram that attatch a hose to the drain plug. The problem was it left dirty oil in the pan. If I jacked up the car on the opposite side, another pint of oil would drain out.

Sal Gerace · #19 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 02:22 PM

Now for another problem... I have a 427 with a 2x4 manifold. When I need to fill the engine with oil the oil fill tube takes forever to drain the oil into the engine. Usually if I am not paying attention and some of the oil spills out. Any suggestions. No provisions in the valve covers and I don't want to change them. I'm screwed huh..

imagine2frolic · #20 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 02:56 PM

A funnel will help.