Engine paint questions

767Jockey · #1 (**permalink**) 08-11-2007, 11:55 PM

I'm about to paint the old Cleveland. Anyone have good or bad experiences with any particular engine paint? I was going to use VHT engine paint in a spray can. I'm going to clean up all the exposed machined engine surfaces,, like the flat area around the thermostat housing and clear them with hi temp clear to keep them looking good. I'm told that those machined surfaces came bare from Ford when the cars were new.

If I had a Kirkham with an FE, I'd be alot more picky as to the originality and correctness of a certain color. I couldn't choose between the usual sort of bright Ford blue, and black. Since the car will be a very dark blue, in poking around I saw that VHT offers a "Dark Ford Blue." I think I'll go with that one. With the aluminum heads and all it should look pretty sharp with the dark blue car.

Now if I can only find a fairly cheap aluminum water pump for the Cleveland.....

trularin · #2 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 06:26 AM

I used VHT on my engine.

As you can see, the bolts are chipped and there are a few other areas that could use a touch up.

My only complaint is it doesn't stick well to the Zinc plated parts.

If you are touching up and it doesn't require a lot of spraying, may I suggest a small bottle of paint and a paint brush.

Hope this helps.

lineslinger · #3 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 10:17 AM

POR engine enamel, the stuff isn't cheap but what good paint is.
Once applied and seasoned the coating is like steel. Retains its sheen and repels all the different cleaners, gas, oils etc. without problem.

cobred · #4 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 10:39 AM

My past experience with clear over bare metal resulted in rust after about 6 months, even on cars not exposed to rain. A black engine with the aluminum parts left natural is a great look.

Silverback51 · #5 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cobred

My past experience with clear over bare metal resulted in rust after about 6 months, even on cars not exposed to rain. A black engine with the aluminum parts left natural is a great look.

One thing to consider regarding black paint on an engine. It's difficult to spot oil, or other fluid leaks. They look nice though.

Excaliber · #6 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 12:01 PM

I'm getting ready to paint my latest project engine, Austin Healy 3000 six cylinder. I'm going to 'primer coat' it first, never tried that before. I'm hoping for a better bond on the bare metal. English green, by the way. I think I will leave the alloy bits and pieces in their natural state.

scales · #7 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 12:12 PM

If your going to use VHt, I'd suggest spraying a coat of spray can "Etching Primer" on the cleaned surface first. It'll help coverage and make the final finish a lot more durable.

The ultuimate paint finish would be automotive enamel mixed with a hardner, reduced and sprayed from a Preval bottle.

Marty.

767Jockey · #8 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lineslinger

POR engine enamel, the stuff isn't cheap but what good paint is.
Once applied and seasoned the coating is like steel. Retains its sheen and repels all the different cleaners, gas, oils etc. without problem.

POR is my other option. Like you said, not cheap, but good stuff. I have to see if it comes in a dark blue. I thought about the black, but I have this stubborn streak in me that likes to be just slightly different. Not much, mind you, as I'm way to old to be a rebel, or at least to try to be. I just like a small detail to differentiate my car from the others.
As far as the clear on bare metal rusting, I didn't know that. Anyone have a resolution to this? Is there a high quality clear that might work? I really like the look of the machined surfaces being left machined as delivered new. As Ross Perot said (not really), "I'm all ears!"

Excaliber · #9 (**permalink**) 08-12-2007, 01:24 PM

While black is considered more 'period correct' I went with blue for my Side Oiler simply because I wanted to be able to spot leaks easier.

DougD · #10 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 08:11 AM

767Jockey

I have used the VHT in spray cans in the past and I feel it will hold up as well as anything. The areas on the engine that get the hottest will begin to look bad almost as soon as you start her up the first time. You will need to retouch those areas from time to time, but that's just part of driving them. They were meant to be driven!
And thanks for using the Ford Dark Blue. The lighter blue is not correct for a V8, plus it looks hokey to me. I am amazed at car shows that owners spend countless hours and $$$ detailing their engines and then paint them that horrible looking light blue......just an opinion!
The Cleveland is an excellent choice for a Cobra powerplant. I'll never forget the rides we took in high school in a friend's '70 Mach 1 that was Cleveland powered. One of Ford's all-time great engines.

jdog · #11 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 08:46 AM

I have to agree with Cobred. Black & natural!

And I like black for the opposite reason from Excaliber. I know my old fe will leak, I don't want each drip to show!

jdog

trularin · #12 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 10:54 AM

Ernie, try it with yellow. You can see everything.

I think I may go traditional with the 406.

Excaliber · #13 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 11:11 AM

You know jdog makes a good point, maybe you don't want to see everything? Hmmm, careful what you ask for.

trularin · #14 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 11:18 AM

Too late, it's already yellow.

Have you tried those main journal girdles for an FE?

ENTDOC · #15 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 02:07 PM

POR 15 , get the kit, you will not regret it. Ford medium blue is attractive.

http://www.por15.com/BEngine-Enamels-B?sc=2&category=1