BF Goodrich Radial TA

[Bob In Ct]

The problem with the BFGs is that many of them are neither dynamically nor dimensionally round. I was a tire engineer for a major tire manufacturer for many years, trust me on this.

Even a square tire can be balanced, but it still will not roll well.

Bob

[tbirdz12]

I have some for sale in the for sale private party section.

Only reason i took them off was for the look of the Billboards I went to. I will tell you one thing is that the BFGs are a whole bunch smoother than what i got on there now.

Tires have 4k on them. Very good condition.

http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...ate/1164777064

[psychoSEAL]

Go to National Tire and Battery. I have them and have had no problems. I have the 295 50's on the back and they have done well.

[COBRAGAR]

try tires-easy.com .you might find what you need .

[ItBites]

I find it interesting that several folks have said (I am paraphrasing) that these tires have a low Cost of Ownership (COO) due to their low initial cost and the fact that they last a long time. At the same time the same folks have indicated they work fine on the street as long as the car is not driven near the limits (which is fine on the street also).

My question is this: Why did you spend so much money, time, energy, and thought on your powerplant, gearing, keeping the car light, etc... if you can't use even the power you bought due to a low performance tire?

Many here have spent upwards of $10000 (or even $15000) on engine alone and bought big power. What is the use if you have a crappy tire? Bench racing?

Your car will be faster (in the real world) with less power and more tire.

[Stentor]

Originally Posted by ItBites

I find it interesting that several folks have said (I am paraphrasing) that these tires have a low Cost of Ownership (COO) due to their low initial cost and the fact that they last a long time. At the same time the same folks have indicated they work fine on the street as long as the car is not driven near the limits (which is fine on the street also).

My question is this: Why did you spend so much money, time, energy, and thought on your powerplant, gearing, keeping the car light, etc... if you can't use even the power you bought due to a low performance tire?

Many here have spent upwards of $10000 (or even $15000) on engine alone and bought big power. What is the use if you have a crappy tire? Bench racing?

Your car will be faster (in the real world) with less power and more tire.

I agree. If you want a good 15" radial tire, you should consider Avon. They cost more than other 15" tires, but they are awesome. If you try them you won't switch back.

[SPF1061]

Originally Posted by Stentor

I agree. If you want a good 15" radial tire, you should consider Avon. They cost more than other 15" tires, but they are awesome. If you try them you won't switch back.

Absolutely. The Avon's only seem expensive while you are agonizing over spending so much money on a set of tires.
Once they are on your car you realize what a great deal they are.

[SantaFe66]

Originally Posted by ItBites

I find it interesting that several folks have said (I am paraphrasing) that these tires have a low Cost of Ownership (COO) due to their low initial cost and the fact that they last a long time. At the same time the same folks have indicated they work fine on the street as long as the car is not driven near the limits (which is fine on the street also).

My question is this: Why did you spend so much money, time, energy, and thought on your powerplant, gearing, keeping the car light, etc... if you can't use even the power you bought due to a low performance tire?

Many here have spent upwards of $10000 (or even $15000) on engine alone and bought big power. What is the use if you have a crappy tire? Bench racing?

Your car will be faster (in the real world) with less power and more tire.

Let's see......faster on the street equals TICKETS, scaring your passengers as well as other motorists. So you spent a bundle on 600hp that you can't use on the street.......... Take it to the track and use track tires. You can mount up the BFG's on another set of wheels and drive like a sane person on the street.

I don't know about you, but continuing to be able to get insurance and not have max points on my license is important to me. This is the same reason squid motorcycle riders without helmets doing wheelies and burn-outs on city streets are bone-heads. Take it to the track!

[fsstnotch]

Originally Posted by SantaFe66

Let's see......faster on the street equals TICKETS, scaring your passengers as well as other motorists. So you spent a bundle on 600hp that you can't use on the street.......... Take it to the track and use track tires. You can mount up the BFG's on another set of wheels and drive like a sane person on the street.

I don't know about you, but continuing to be able to get insurance and not have max points on my license is important to me. This is the same reason squid motorcycle riders without helmets doing wheelies and burn-outs on city streets are bone-heads. Take it to the track!

I don't know about NM, but in PA a loss of traction is called careless driving. Putting rock hard tires on your 600hp/575tq car is just asking for problems! Unless of course you're "driving miss daisy," or.. "a sunday driver!"

I'm an aggressive yet defensive driver by nature. Now days you almost ahve to be! There are so many people talking on cell phones, eating, or doing whatever while driving that people aren't paying close enough attention to actually driving! I like to have the reassurance that I can get out of someone's way if I need to! Not spin my flinstone, rock tires and get nailed! I would compare driving a cobra to riding a bike. You can NEVER expect the drivers of other cars to be paying attention or see you. Always on your guard and aware of your surroundings! I want good tires not so I can tear up the streets with my "600hp," but to have a car that is inherently safer!

Josh

[WildBill3]

I would agree to the inherently safer,also under All cercumstanses your stickier tires will help you get out of tight spots other drivers may put you in.They are going to out perform the stone age tires of old without a dought.Hey lets face it streets are slick,most race tracks have an adheision far greater,so drivers beware,you get what you pay for goes double for tires..WB3

[Garage10]

do any of you have experience with the cooper cobra tires ? What are they like ? Traction and wear ?

Thanks

[JWheaton]

Originally Posted by BFBurk

Great discussion! I've had the same BFGoodrich radial T/A's on my car since it was built in 1989.

They always seem to shake at high speed and high speed balancing seems to work but does not seem to eliminate the problem. I did have one left front rim that had a wobble 12 years ago and I chucked it up in the lathe and took a 20 to 30 thousandth cut where the rim contacts the spindle and trued up the wheel. I replaced that tire and it was much better. All the other rims were fine.

I still have the same tires(minus the one that was on the out of true rim) and they wear like iron. The tires must have a very hard rubber compound.

I think low profile tires are hard to keep balanced and need rebalanced yearly or at least once every couple of years. When I need new tires, I will keep what was discussed here in mind.

They probably have turned into rocks! Am I reading correctly, your tires are 18 years old? Please read below and consider some new shoes for your hot rod.

Tires: Aging Dangerously

Copyright Ó Safety Research & Strategies, 2006


Tires, like any other rubber product, have a limited service life regardless of tread depth and use. The dangers of "aged" tires is a little known problem outside of the industry and one that is likely the cause of a significant number of tread separation problems. "Aged" tires are often unsuspectingly put into service after having served as a spare, stored in garages or warehouses, or simply used on a vehicle that is infrequently driven. In many instances these tires show no visible sign of deterioration, and absent any visible indicators, tires with adequate tread depth are likely to be put into service regardless of age.



Tire age can be determined through decoding of the required DOT number molded into the side of a tire; however, the DOT date coding is consumer unfriendly and confusing. [Decoding the DOT Number]



Following the Ford/Firestone tire investigations in 2000 the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) began examining tire aging as a factor in tread belt separations and proposed a tire aging test in 2002 [Docket 2000-8011-19]. However, overwhelming industry opposition and the lack of an agreed upon aging standard led NHTSA hold further rulemaking and to begin additional research [June 26, 2003 Final Rule, Docket 03-15400-1]. As a result the agency is currently testing tires to discern possible test protocols that would ensure tires do not fail catastrophically before they wear out. This process is still several years from fruition. Following NHTSA's decision to commence additional research in 2003, SRS president Sean Kane, (formerly with Strategic Safety, LLC) began documenting a trend of catastrophic tire failures in the U.S. in which the tires were six years old or older. Kane also found important evidence that tire manufacturers have internal recommendations related to tire aging that were either never disclosed publicly. A summary of these findings along with a recommendation that NHTSA consider a tire expiration date requirement was submitted to the agency on September 17, 2003 [Docket 15400-12].



One of the most important documents disclosed to NHTSA regarding the industry knowledge of tire aging is the British Rubber Manufacturers Association (BRMA), which consists of the same tire manufacturers who are present in the U.S. market, recommended practice dated June 5, 2001. The BRMA's recommended practice on tire aging states



"BRMA members strongly recommend that unused tyres should not be put into service if they are over 6 years old and that all tyres should be replaced 10 years from the date of their manufacture."



It also notes that environmental conditions like exposure to sunlight and coastal climates, as well as poor storage and infrequent use accelerate the aging process.



"In ideal conditions, a tyre may have a life expectancy that exceeds 10 years from its date of manufacture. However such conditions are rare."



The BRMA document goes on to say that aging may be identified by small cracks in the tire sidewall, however,



"'[a]geing' may not exhibit any external indications and, since there is no non destructive test to assess the serviceability of a tyre, even an inspection carried out by a tyre expert may not reveal the extent of any deterioration."



Further, Kane's comments to NHTSA disclosed little-known warnings in the owner's manuals of German vehicles (i.e., Mercedes, BMW, Audi, VW) and Toyota that tires older than six years posed dangers. This information, combined with a number of other technical documents provide clear evidence that the tire and vehicle manufacturers are aware of, and likely in the possession of important data and testing upon which these obscure findings were based. However, none of this information was disclosed to NHTSA in response to its request for comments about tire aging.

[sandpitcobra]

Seeing as there is so much discussion about tyres with this thread maybe someone can advise me. I have got 9 1/2" x 15" at the back and 7 1/2" x 15' rims at the front which need some work doing to clean them up. I need to replace my 305/50 and 275/50 tyres and the closest match I can find is on Jegs.com. All they have are 295/50 and 265/60. Can I use different profiles together, if not where can I get a matching set or should I opt for new wheels altogether i.e 16" rims which would be easier to get tyres for????

Cheers!!

[Fred Z]

I am interested in why so many have BFG's that suck? I have a 550 hp and 50 torq motor. I have BFG's...295 back and 255 front. I have had them balanced once......and drive the streets with no issues, as have some others here! I can tak off pretty quick......and sure, they are not 'race tires, to be sure', but they drive fine...maybe a bit hard, but not bad as i would have suspected! I have had the car for 8 months........now have 7400 miles.......(yes, i drive the sh%* out of it) and have no problems. I like to also have something that keeps me from testing the limits, at least on the street! I know they have limits.....and for me, keeps me sane!!
I would also say....that if I were going to hit the track.....these tires would not be on my car! Avons would, or some 17" tires. But for cruising...they work fine.....and trust me...with the power I have, and when i hit it.........they are ok.......or they would be history by now.
We all have our opinions....and some folks have had issues with these tires......but some folks also have had issues with some motors that others haven't! Just the nature of the beast....literally!
my 2 cnts
fred z

[fsstnotch]

Originally Posted by Fred Z

[color=blue][b][i]I am interested in why so many have BFG's that suck? I have a 550 hp and 50 torq motor. I have BFG's...295 back and 255 front.

Fred, I think the reason you like them is because you only have 50lb/ft tq! Just playin!

[clayfoushee]

One possible reason some have no issues with BFG R TAs is that it is possible to get 4 round ones on the car. A high performance tire guy told me "you just need to buy 10 to find 4 that are round."

[turnpike boy]

.........just begs the question: so what IS the best replacement for BFG's?

I've heard lots about Yoko Avids, which are no longer manufactured. I've heard that Dunlops are great, but only once or twice. My experience with Goodyears in the past was far less than happy. Has anybody used Hoosiers or Mickey Thompson's with success? - in the rain too? As to the BFG's I can agree with much of what's written above - they have lasted well, they're reasonably comfortable and quiet, they suck on any kind of wet road, their traction is a laughable suggestion, but they have worked reasonably for the past 12,000 miles.

Maybe we're just looking for a 15" tire that just plain doesn't exist any longer. Maybe we need to go to 17" on a standard basis, just for the availability of truly decent tires. Still, I would really prefer to be able to find an all-around, great-in-the-dry-and-decent-in-the-wet 15" that rode well, balanced like they were meant to, and can go 8 to 10K miles before replacement. Guess I want it all. Oh, well.

[SPF1061]

Turnpike Boy, you CAN have it all. You just have to be willing to pay for it.
(Well, almost. I'm estimating @ 5000 miles on a set with a lot of road race and drag strip strack time mixed in.)

Avon CR6ZZ

front - 245/60/15 @ $302 ea.
rear - 295/50/51 @ $355 ea.

http://www.sascosports.com/products/...php?type_id=39

[Danr55]

Well, I checked TireRack.com and found Goodyear Double Eagles in the desired sizes for $111 for the rears (295-50-15) and $87 (245-60-15) for the fronts.

Thanks for all the advice and council. The arguements were fun, also.

[Tim Brewer]

Cooper tires fall into the same catagory as BFS's. I wouldn't use those either.