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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2007, 08:10 PM
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you might look at the 35-769-8 or the 35-770-8 as they will be more drivable on the street---I'd also widen out the lobe centers to 112 or 114degrees

Most of these cars are more fun with more reasonable setups in the engine department---you need to be able to cruise in high gear at 2000 -2500 rpm without bucking and jumping

Good luck

Jerry
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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2007, 10:00 PM
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If his clearances are .039 and .058 respecively then the problem is NOT timing. The problem is wrong pistons - somebody didn't do the right calculations. Probably the wrist pin position was wrong.

B.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2007, 02:59 AM
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I would STILL have the deck height on that block measured! Especially when every single book I have says that the 71-73 D2AE-BA blocks are 9.480. Every reference I found on the net confirms this. Not saying they couldn't be wrong, but it's better safe than sorry. the only references I found that claimed 71-74 blocks were 9.503 are forums just like this. VERY unreliable source! DEfinitely get that deck height measured properly before you start ordering parts!
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2007, 07:12 AM
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At this point---the pistons are in the hole by .005---it doesn't matter anymore what the block measures--what matters is the v/p clearance---he has a solid roller cam spec'd for a drag racing engine. He needs to put a properly timed cam in the engine for a more civilized application, something around the upper 500 low 600 lift at a duration that will run from make max power from 1500-6000 rpm !!!! The car is 2400-2500 lbs, runs outta aero at 140 and 450-500hp is drivable---anything more and its Russian Roulette to drive on the streets with cell phone talking/Starbucks drinkers/etc

Jerry
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2007, 09:50 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: BDR 559. 410 Stroker 72 block AFR205 Heads, Solid roller lifters, Comp Cams XR286, Eagle 4" stroke internally balanced with chevy journals, Oliver rods, Probe Forged pistons, Mighty Demon, Super Victor, MSD Digital 6.....
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I'm comfortable with the new combination, the lift is in the LOW .600 range but still aggressive enough to take advantage of the other compnents and leave me with a strong motor which should leave me with HP in 500+....
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2007, 08:37 PM
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Great thread.

i remain impressed at the abuse your pistons took for 400 miles.

Says a lot about using forged rather than cast, although in this instance, even the forgings may be weakened. After clean-up, i would have then crack tested before any sale to keep someone from their own big troubles, if you don't use them.

Good luck.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2007, 09:04 PM
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I tried Playdoh one time. It pops up,like bread rising,as soon as the pressure is released.
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2007, 09:24 AM
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Correct. Only decent modeling clay should be used for precision work, as it is dimentionally stable when compressed.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 10-21-2007, 09:57 AM
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BDR561;

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. yesterday I decided to drop the oil pan on my race car (331 stroker) and change out the leaking oil pan gasket.drained the oil first and when I pulled the magnetic drain plug, I found 5 small pieces of an oil ring on the drain plug......

Pulled the motor out and tore it down, luckily no other damage!!!!!!! it only had 2.5 hours of running time on it since a rebuild........

Boy, this racin stuff sure is fun,fun,fun..................

David
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 06:43 AM
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I just wish I had some tell-tail signs so I could have caught it before so much damage had been done...
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2007, 07:01 AM
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No Problem.

For an immediate failure indicator, next time use cast pistons. They will break catastrophically right away and let you know. Your valve has to slam a forged piston quite a bit before it let's go. Might not have been audible with side pipes.

A block-mounted knock-indicator might have sent a signal, but i am not sure of the best way to mount, power and indicate the signal. Might be a nice idea for a product, as a retro-fit to non-modern non-computerized performance cars. Free idea for someone. Probably been done already, but i cannot find it.
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