Four Post Auto Lift - Page 2

jhv48 · #21 (**permalink**) 11-13-2007, 10:37 AM

Trying to back the Cobra from my curved driveway into a single car garage with a lift in it is just inviting body damage. I can just barely handle it nose first without power steering.

What a wuss, huh?

Bill Wells · #22 (**permalink**) 11-13-2007, 12:54 PM

get a high lift kit for the door to snug it against the ceiling, move the opener to the side as well as any overhead lights and you can get alot of combo of cars under a 112 " ceiling. it is tight but it can be done . I have 9-1/2 feet ( 115 inches )under one stall with a 4 post lift . antennaes must not stick above the highest point of the car . you just cant raise the lift to the top position and might have to shim it a tad . or as has been shown, get creative in cutting a section out of the ceiling for the car's high point . see my pic gallery . Bill

ssssss · #23 (**permalink**) 11-14-2007, 01:20 AM

You might want to consider a two post " type. you save the hight with the wheels hanging below the lift arms.
Charlie,

TButtrick · #24 (**permalink**) 11-14-2007, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssssss

You might want to consider a two post " type. you save the hight with the wheels hanging below the lift arms.
Charlie,

Do you really want to store a car with the coil overs at full droop? I don't see how this will save you any room underneath or on top unless it's motorcycle you're storing there. The two post lifts require a healthy slab floor and can't be moved around. The Pro-Park came with free casters and you can push it around the garage with one hand.

ssssss · #25 (**permalink**) 11-14-2007, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TButtrick

Do you really want to store a car with the coil overs at full droop? I don't see how this will save you any room underneath or on top unless it's motorcycle you're storing there. The two post lifts require a healthy slab floor and can't be moved around. The Pro-Park came with free casters and you can push it around the garage with one hand.

I don't see a problem with the coil over hanging down, also you don't have to jack up your car on the lift to work on the brakes. And how many 4 post owners move the lift to work out side, most driveways are not level.

charlie

jhv48 · #26 (**permalink**) 11-14-2007, 10:59 AM

Definitely has to be a four post lift for height and stability reasons. I can't have the wheels dangling down, as I have another car to park under it!

Bill Wells · #27 (**permalink**) 11-14-2007, 12:48 PM

there is more room under my 4 post lift than the two post lift i have . even when at the same identical lift height . the wheels hanging down protrude into the outer areas of the car roof underneath if a conventional car , thus more restrictive . the cars i can park under my 4 poster in some cases will not park under the 2 poster because of those dangling wheels above . i had a set of wheels for my 4 poster and never used em , gave them away to someone else with the same lift as mine . my 4 poster is my preferred lift , easier to use , quicker to use / set car on it etc . if ya need to change wheels etc i have a jacking tray for the 4 poster that slides fore and aft between the two ramps . a bottle jack and then jack stands on the jacking tray and voila, no problem. if you do alot of wheel changing then the 2 poster is better . bill.

TButtrick · #28 (**permalink**) 11-14-2007, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssssss

I don't see a problem with the coil over hanging down, also you don't have to jack up your car on the lift to work on the brakes. And how many 4 post owners move the lift to work out side, most driveways are not level.

charlie

Not to move outside but to move around in the garage. Some coil-over shocks can be damaged by letting them sit at full droop. Ask me how I know. You can also use a 4 post with casters as an engine hoist. I bought the ProJack3500 for wheel work.

SKINNEDR · #29 (**permalink**) 11-15-2007, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TButtrick

Not to move outside but to move around in the garage. Some coil-over shocks can be damaged by letting them sit at full droop. Ask me how I know. You can also use a 4 post with casters as an engine hoist. I bought the ProJack3500 for wheel work.

Can you expend on the effect of having your wheels drooping?

Bill Wells · #30 (**permalink**) 11-15-2007, 06:23 AM

when you lift the car up from the frame or unibody, the suspension relaxes from weight of resistance free hanging wheels/tires - thus hanging down several to many inches depending on suspension limits . bill. .

LuvDaBlues · #31 (**permalink**) 11-18-2007, 07:42 PM

Just installed ours today after one week of garage modifications. I now have 14' clear to ceiling. Plenty of room to work underneath. Bought the hydraulic jack too.

Pro Park 7. 3.5 hours to install with friends helping.

767Jockey · #32 (**permalink**) 11-18-2007, 08:11 PM

I was thinking about a one post lift. With a four post, while stable and cheaper, even when the cars are out of the garage you have this big thing taking up half your garage. With a one post, you install it so the post is against an outside wall, and with no cars on the lift and the lift in the full up or full down position, your garage is essentially empty as normal, enabling you to work on a car in the middle of the garage if you wish with plenty of room all around. It also seems like it would be much easier to get in and out of the car parked below with a one post lift, and much easier to park under it as well, as you don't have to thread the bottom car through two posts. With a one post lift, you just park underneath with no real tight quarters laterally to have to navigate.

Have any of you guys used one of these one post lifts yet? They look pretty stable with the heavy duty splayed arms and all. Any experiences you've had with a one post lift, certain brands, where to buy and costs, etc would be appreciated. Thanks.

TButtrick · #33 (**permalink**) 11-20-2007, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 767Jockey

I was thinking about a one post lift. With a four post, while stable and cheaper, even when the cars are out of the garage you have this big thing taking up half your garage. With a one post, you install it so the post is against an outside wall, and with no cars on the lift and the lift in the full up or full down position, your garage is essentially empty as normal, enabling you to work on a car in the middle of the garage if you wish with plenty of room all around. It also seems like it would be much easier to get in and out of the car parked below with a one post lift, and much easier to park under it as well, as you don't have to thread the bottom car through two posts. With a one post lift, you just park underneath with no real tight quarters laterally to have to navigate.

Have any of you guys used one of these one post lifts yet? They look pretty stable with the heavy duty splayed arms and all. Any experiences you've had with a one post lift, certain brands, where to buy and costs, etc would be appreciated. Thanks.

No experience but I'd imagine you'd really have to beef up the slab for this. All the weight of your car in a couple of square feet. A typical contractor grade won't do as even the double post needs 4+ inch slab. The 4 posts aren't an issue as I though they might be but I'm not working on a car underneath the lift but rather on the lift. If you're looking at single post with the large base then the base would be MUCH more of a nuisance than the the addition 3 posts. They look like twice the price.

SKINNEDR · #34 (**permalink**) 11-20-2007, 05:16 AM

CONCRETE: 3000 PSI, 4" thick. Reinforced w/ steel bar, mesh will be the specification for such.
The costy is unknown, but you could look this site and call them for the information.

http://interstatelift.com/interstate...m_one_sing.htm

Can also be found at Northern Tools for around $3700.00
http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200102624.htm

Dex....

Silverback51 · #35 (**permalink**) 11-20-2007, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TButtrick

No experience but I'd imagine you'd really have to beef up the slab for this. All the weight of your car in a couple of square feet. A typical contractor grade won't do as even the double post needs 4+ inch slab. The 4 posts aren't an issue as I though they might be but I'm not working on a car underneath the lift but rather on the lift. If you're looking at single post with the large base then the base would be MUCH more of a nuisance than the the addition 3 posts. They look like twice the price.

The punch through on the concrete would not concern me. It's the bending moment load that is trying to pull the anchor bolts out of the floor that I would worry about.

If I was going with this type of lift, I would also anchor it to the wall or ceiling just to be safe.

The other negative of this design is that the cross bar blocks off some of the access to the underside of the car.

trs900 · #36 (**permalink**) 11-20-2007, 06:09 AM

After a couple of years of having a 4 post I can see the benefits of a 2 post as access to underneath of car is hampered by the width of the ramps and if you don't have a rolling hydraulic jack which I do have taking wheels off etc can be a pain. The ideal situation would be to have both a 4post for oil changes and a quick look & a 2 post for access to entire underneath of car. Also seem to keep hitting my head on the ramps especially when I am in a hurry..