Avg running temp

[Pacco]

What would be a good running water temp in 50 degree weather? My car is running at 140 - 150 degrees. Thanks

[GlynMeek]

seems a little low actually. 170-180 might be better. What temp thermostat do you have, and is your fan on all the time, or triggered by a temperature sensor? If it's on all the time, this might explain why you are low!

Glyn

[Silverback51]

If you are running Smiths gauges, that may be the problem. My oil temp, and water temp on mine are both screwed up.

[496fe]

Running temperatures that low is ruining you engine! You are not running hot enough to even evaporate the accumulated condensation in the engine. If your thermostat is not opening and you still cannot get the temps up, the engine is being cooled some other way - probably your oil cooler (if you have one) or your heater. If you have an oil cooler, you need to either install an oil cooler thermostat or cover up the fins.

You don't want to run your engine at less than about 190 degrees. Defective thermostats are usually the culprits. There are tons of good posts here on how to test a t-stat.

Good luck,

Brian

[Tim Brewer]

It doesn't matter what the outside temp is, your engine temp should always be the same. Sounds like you have a full time fan. Get a thermostat for the fan or manually turn it off and on as needed,(that's what I do).

[WarrenG]

Originally Posted by Tim Brewer

It doesn't matter what the outside temp is, your engine temp should always be the same. Sounds like you have a full time fan. Get a thermostat for the fan or manually turn it off and on as needed,(that's what I do).

Sorry, but outside air temp does affect the operating temp of the engine. At 50 my 331 water temp runs between 175 and 185, up to 190 if in stop and go traffic. Oil temp around 180. Summer temps usually result in an increase of approx 10 degrees engine temp. You should be running at least a 180 or 190 thermostat to keep the temp up a little.

[Pacco]

I am running a 160 degree thermostat. I bought a 180 tested both and the 160 (older unit) worked the 180 (new unit) failed to open. I am sure I have all air from the system. I thought that the outside temp would have some effect on temp. I do not have a heater in the car. The car use to run at 190 - 200 during the summer until I made some changes. Such as adding an expansion tank, stainless flexible hoses. I appreciate everyone's input!

[clayfoushee]

It must be your temp. gauge or a temp. sensor problem. If you are actually running 140-50, that would mean your 160 stat is never opening, if your gauges are accurate. That would also mean the coolant is never circulating outside of your block and through the radiator. Those temps would be impossible if that were the case.

In addition, the temp. rating of the thermostat doesn't really affect the operating temp of the car, in general. Thats primarily a function of airflow and cooling system capacity.

A 160 stat is the same as a 180 stat when they are open. They just open at different temps. I prefer the 180 because it allows a car to get to operating temp more quickly from a cold start.

[Pacco]

Outside temp is 32. Pulled the car out and let her run for a good 15 minutes. Temp got to 140 and stopped. The fan never shut off. What next?

[clayfoushee]

Buy or borrow an infrared thermometer and take a reading on your thermostat housing. I bet you see 180 or greater.

[Tim Brewer]

Pacco, your fan needs to turn off if it's colder outside and your engine is running cool. And to Warren, I didn't say outside temp doesn't affect engine temp, of course it does. What I said was, and I'll say it again,regardless of outside temp, your engine needs to run at the same temp, or at least that's your goal. Engines don't like to be too cool or too hot.

[GlynMeek]

Interesting that you say "the fan never shut off". It should never have switched on at those temperatures. Try disconnecting the fan and letting the engine run and see if THAT gets the temperature up.

You never did say if your fan is connected to a thermal sensor/switch of some kind, or if it just comes on with ignition power!!!! (If so, then you should change to either a manual switch or (preferably) a thermal switch for that fan!)

Glyn

Glyn

[WarrenG]

Originally Posted by Tim Brewer

Pacco, your fan needs to turn off if it's colder outside and your engine is running cool. And to Warren, I didn't say outside temp doesn't affect engine temp, of course it does. What I said was, and I'll say it again,regardless of outside temp, your engine needs to run at the same temp, or at least that's your goal. Engines don't like to be too cool or too hot.

Sorry, misread your post. I agree.

[Pacco]

When I turn the ignition switch on the fan kicks in. I do have a dash mounted switch. And if memory serves me correct, I use to be able to turn the fan on with the switch. I do not drive the car much in the winter months so this has me puzzled. I sent a message to the first owner of the car to see how he had it set up. I might pull the fuse or disconnect the fan and let her run to see if the temp goes up. Any other ideas, I am no electrician. Thanks everyone!

[clayfoushee]

I repeat, the most simple thing you can do is get your hands on an IR thermometer before you go chasing ghosts. You're putting a lot of faith in that crude, ancient technology temp. gauge.

Even if your fans are running all the time, it's hard to imagine the engine running that cold, unless you're just idling at low RPMs in the driveway.

[jhv48]

Disconnect the fan and take for a drive.

The temp should hover around 180-190 without the fan in fairly brisk driving at 50 degrees.

The temp should climb as you sit idling without the fan. Don't let it get too high.

If the above temps are realized, the problem is in the fan switch. It should not be coming on till at least 200 degrees. Replace the switch or install an adjustable switch that will turn the fan on automatically when a specific temp is attained (say 200 degrees).

[GlynMeek]

hmmmmm....agreed that it shouldn't run cold all the time, EVEN if the fan is running all the time, BUT even when (IF!!!) you figure this out, you really should have your fan connected to a thermostatically driven switch. This will ensure that your engine gets to optimum operating temperatures as quickly as possible. I am not an eletrical engineer either, but there is plenty out there on the web that will explain how to wire a thermostatically controlled switch. Go 'google' and see what you can find. If you have no luck finding stuff, let us know.

I have a Spal fan, and their website has a whole bunch of information on thermostatically controlled switches.

Good luck

Glyn