UH OH! FE marks territory

[Excaliber]

I guess it was bound to happen sooner or later. BIG oil leak, what a mess, she really let go man.





...guess I'll adjust the valves while I'm in there replacing the valve cover gasket this weekend. Life is good!

[patrickt]

You never know, it could be a simultaneous failure of the rear plugs, the rear seal, and the intake manifold seal. I think you should pull the engine and break it down just to make sure.

[RICK LAKE]

Excaliper could your car be trying to cort the neighbors vette or harley? You better not call George and tell him you are leaken.After all that work to get you straighten out. Not good, hope for an easy fix. It's not a leak, it's what's left after a hot time. Rick L. Ps mine leaks the size of a quarter after every time the motor is run. If it didn't leak I would worry.

[Ron61]

Same with mine and it started about two weeks after I bought the car brand new. I just slide a piece of cardboard under it and after a week I go wipe up the little bit of oil that has dripped down. I have had probably 8 different FE engines and every one of them would leak a little after I drove them for a short time. The 65 Galaxie with the 390m took the longest to start. It lasted almsot a month before I started seeing oil drops. I just figured it was designed into the Fe to leak to relieve pressure.

Ron

[undy]

See... If you would of went with that "non-OEM, non-original" Hydraulic Roller instead of that solid flat-crappit you wouldn't have dem' cam lobe metal flakes rampantly running through yer engine, cutting oil seals at will!

[Chaplin]

Ex-
I think it is time for you to start a thread bashing your engine builder and then we'll all pile on.

[undy]

Originally Posted by Chaplin

Ex-
I think it is time for you to start a thread bashing your engine builder and then we'll all pile on.

What engine builder???? Oh! You mean that "Ex"-engine builder

Uh-oh.. I better be careful. The Hawaiian "FE gods" will curse me with the 3-Ps.. (putrid petroleum puddles)

[RACER X #99]

It's a Ford what do you expect? If you want a non leaker get a Chevy or a Japanese engine.
Isn't it ironic that of all the engines ever produced only one ever had the name oiler attached to it. That's why it is just dumb to argue about which is better top oiler, center oiler, or side oiler becaue they are all bottom oilers.
If you don't want oil stains on the driveway put a diaper on your engine.
A side benefit to this Ernie is when you go to buy your Depends you tell the sales person it's for your car engine.

RD

[blykins]

I don't know why you posted this thread Ernie...it's been shown in the past that you don't respond well to criticism. LOL

You'll figure it out I'm sure. FE's are hard to keep from leaking that's for sure.

[Ron61]

Ernie,

Do what I do. Look on the bright side. If the car is stolen you can show the police where it was setting. And that little bit mine has dripped since 1969 total wouldn't make a half quart.

Ron

[vettestr]

Slick is back !! Hope it is the V covers Ernie.

[patrickt]

Fortunately it was parked out back when it sprung the leak -- but it did leave a bit of a mess.

[Excaliber]

You guys crack me up. The big choice for today is cork or rubber for the gaskets. Kind of like paper or plastic I guess. I think I'll go cork this time, not to tight on the V cover bolts either.

Looks like I overtightened one side last time I was in there and the rubber gasket squished out on the front corner. Engine runs STRONG by they way, it's still a thrill.

[blykins]

I've had the best luck with cork on FE's. Especially if there's a little step up from the head to the intake manifold.

[undy]

Originally Posted by blykins

I've had the best luck with cork on FE's. Especially if there's a little step up from the head to the intake manifold.

..speaking of the step between the head and the intake, I found something that works real well there. Get some brake clean and some "Right Stuff" (RTV alternative). Clean the head and intake at the "step" with the brake clean. Put a small amount of Right Stuff on the tip of your index finger and prime the head and intake surface, then build up and level the step between the intake and head. Let it cure overnight before reinstalling the valve cover w/gasket. I've not had a valve cover leak since I started doing that. I prefer the thick cork valve cover gasket too.

[blykins]

Dave, that's usually how I do it too. Regular RTV will work well in that location also, but I've heard some really good stuff about the "Right Stuff".

[undy]

Originally Posted by blykins

Dave, that's usually how I do it too. Regular RTV will work well in that location also, but I've heard some really good stuff about the "Right Stuff".

I cures a little more rigid than RTV and will support more compression without distortion too.

[Ron61]

I have used the Right Stuff on some transmission leaks and it was great. Never had a problem after that. My FE has a Paranormal leak. Not valve covers as they have been checked numerous times. Put talcum powder all down the back of the block and looked with dye to see if I could see any traces with the dye or in the talcum powder where oil had ran. Nothing. Took inspection plate off and checked flywheel and clutch. All dry as dust except for some disk dust that fell into my eyes. Always wear eye protection. I swear where the oil does drip from there is no way for it to get there. It comes from the mounting unit that holds my clutch fork and unit in and it is mounted on the side of the transmission bell housing about 1/3rd way up. It is just powder dry all above and around it. And as I have stated it hasn't leaked much. Just a few drops every time I drive it. But it would be nice to know how that oil gets up there. I have a haunted car!!!

Ron

[Wayne Maybury]

I guess this isn't the time nor place to mention that Windsors rarely leak oil. Ya know, that old small block versus big block arguement.

Wayne