Getting ready to fill the cooling system but have a question

Juggernaut · #1 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 01:39 PM

I've done the searches but have one question (hopefully not a stupid one)concerning the procedure below that I got from a previous post on the forum:

Open the filler cap and fill everything thru the intake. Use a nice size funnel, take your time and lay rags on the motor etc to keep things neat. You will hear all the air leaving your motor AND rad thru the filler as the coolant rolls down the lower rad hose filling both rad and motor. Close up the intake plug when full. Top off filler . Start for one cycle. I then needed to top off the filler by adding 6-8 ounces.

It says to 'top off the filler and start the engine. I would imagine the filler neck cap should be on when the engine is started or bad things will happen, right?

Randy

trularin · #2 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 01:50 PM

I like to run the engine with the rad uncapped and let the thermostat open. I find it best to cap the radiator off when the engine is at temp with a suitable amount of mix in the puke can.

first 3/4 gallon of anti
1 bottle of wetter
1 can of WP lube
3/4 gallon of water.
Second bottle of wetter.
Finish off with 50/50.

My mix, do what you want. It gets to be -30 here so I need to protect the system.

Bob In Ct · #3 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 05:23 PM

Just a couple of thoughts -

If you're using antifreeze dilute it first 50/50 with distilled water. So as to let the air out of the block drill a small hole in the top of the thermostat.

I'm no authority on "water-wetter", but a lot of what I read says it's not for everyday use.

Bob

Madmiles442 · #4 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 05:37 PM

Okay, I'll ask the stupid question-

What filler on the intake?

wtm442 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 06:54 PM

Distilled water and good anti-freeze.

Take of the radiator cap and fill it.

Start engine and run for 30 minutes.

Let it cool down, and refill if necessary.

Tim Brewer · #6 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 09:25 PM

You don't have to fill the whole thing through the manifold, maybe just a top off after the first cycle to posibly displace any air.
Miles, all intakes should have a plug that you can remove to expose the water cavity in them. It's not really a fill hole, but it is a high point that allows you to displace any air if there is air in there. There is also sometimes a plug that goes to the open cavity where fuel and air are drawn in.

Ibr8k4vetts · #7 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Madmiles442

Okay, I'll ask the stupid question-

What filler on the intake?

Well on a Big Block the way you fill the cooling system is the tank that bolts too the intake

McObra · #8 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 09:53 PM

Talking, I think, about the port where the coolant temperature sensor goes into the intake mainfold. Would take forever to fill the system there. Take the sensor out and fill normally. Air will escape through the sensor port. HTH.

Juggernaut · #9 (**permalink**) 02-22-2008, 10:57 PM

Thanks to all for the replies.

I now know how I'll do it.

Randy

badrich · #10 (**permalink**) 02-23-2008, 01:55 AM

What's the problem using water wetter for daily driving? I've heard that adding some kind of lubricant is a good idea, but nothing else (other than anti-freeze for you poor guys who live with nasty cold weather). Rich

trularin · #11 (**permalink**) 02-23-2008, 07:03 AM

I've had this mix for four years. The wetter seemed to make a difference as I went from "all on" as far as my fan was concerned to cycling. The fan runs, cools the system and then shuts off.

Just my $.0.02

Dwight · #12 (**permalink**) 02-23-2008, 07:18 AM

If you run more antifreeze than water, your Cobra may run hot. 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze work best if you are in a cold climate. In north Alabama we run about 30% antifreeze. Most Cobra are kept in garages and not subjected to below freezing driving conditions.

Dwight

Ronbo · #13 (**permalink**) 02-23-2008, 04:07 PM

Up north 50/50, anyone down south can get away with less. Water releases heat better than antifreeze so use enough to alter boil/freeze points and no more. Also water pump lubricant is a good add on to prevent seal failure on the pump.

I've never had much faith in the "wetter" stuff, if your boiling over you need to find out what's wrong with your system, "defective water" is rarely the cause. Distilled or filtered water will reduce calcium deposits which are death to most radiators.

Make sure your anti-freeze is aluminum safe as well (most commercial ones are).

Ibr8k4vetts · #14 (**permalink**) 02-23-2008, 09:38 PM

I don't have to worry about freezing so I just run water and a bottle water wetter to lube the water pump.

slithering · #15 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 07:08 AM

I have an expansion tank on my 427 and fill the cooling system from there. I also have a bleeder on my water pump to aide in dispersing any trapped air. I use Evans Coolant and must eliminate any tapped air. I have found by slightly jacking up the front, passenger side of the car, I can eliminate any and all trapped air.

Chris

patrickt · #16 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slithering

I have an expansion tank on my 427 and fill the cooling system from there. I also have a bleeder on my water pump...

Was that a typo? Or did you mean "radiator."

slithering · #17 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 12:19 PM

patrickt,

No it's not a typo. I have a bleeder on the water pump itself. I believe all Evans water pumps come with an air bleeder.

Chris

patrickt · #18 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slithering

patrickt,

No it's not a typo. I have a bleeder on the water pump itself. I believe all Evans water pumps come with an air bleeder.

Chris

That makes so much sense you'd think they'd all do that. Evans Coolant Pumps with Nifty Air Bleeds

Ronbo · #19 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 05:32 PM

I'm at a loss why you would block off the weep hole. The front bearing isn't intended to be submurged in coolant.

I'm also curious if the motor is run, wouldn't this small pocket of air get pushed out? It's a venturi pump so I can't imagine air not getting worked out from the turbulance. Seems unnessisary to me to add a bleeder. Not to mention this isn't the high point of the coolant system.

Velocity of the coolant in the system doesn't need to be fooled around with most of the time. The thermostat is the big bottleneck (as it should be) and overheats are usually radiator / airflow problems.

Or that underdrive pulley.

patrickt · #20 (**permalink**) 02-24-2008, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronbo

I'm at a loss why you would block off the weep hole. The front bearing isn't intended to be submurged in coolant.

Evans specifies in their instructions that the weep hole must be plugged to prevent air being drawn in to the pump and passed to the bearing shaft seal.
http://www.evanscooling.com/download...structions.pdf