Ford Waterpump.

Mando · #1 (**permalink**) 05-26-2008, 10:17 PM

I was hoping that amongst all the Ford experts out there, someone could answer the following question regardless how basic it may be.
Ive got a Ford 347 with a standard rotation waterpump that has 2 barbs on the LH side about 1/2" round. I assume they are for the heater. Does water exit the top one or the bottom one?

Regards.

Rick Parker · #2 (**permalink**) 05-26-2008, 11:59 PM

1 barb is designed to have a curved hose attached to it and to the nipple on the thermostat housing, to provide a coolant bypass, while allowing an even warmup of the engine. The other barb is drilled, tapped and plugged with a 1/4" tapered pipe plug if no heater is being used. If a heater IS used, one of the heater hoses attach to it, with the other hose going to a 90 degree barb coming from the intake manifold. Water exits both barbs.

Jac Mac · #3 (**permalink**) 05-27-2008, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

1 barb is designed to have a curved hose attached to it and to the nipple on the thermostat housing, to provide a coolant bypass, while allowing an even warmup of the engine. The other barb is drilled, tapped and plugged with a 1/4" tapered pipe plug if no heater is being used. If a heater IS used, one of the heater hoses attach to it, with the other hose going to a 90 degree barb coming from the intake manifold. Water exits both barbs.

Wrong flow direction Rick, Water enters both barbs. Water to heater exits intake manifold to heater & returns by lower barb on pump. Upper barb on pump connects to thermostat by-pass on t/stat housing- flow being from T/stat to pump.

Mando · #4 (**permalink**) 05-27-2008, 04:49 AM

Heres my problem. Ive got a 3 piece intake manifold where water exits through 4 -12 fittings, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear. I have diverted one at the rear to the heater which then exits the heater and loops around to the top connection on the water pump.
I have blocked off the lower connection.

Do I have a problem?????

Regards.

lovehamr · #5 (**permalink**) 05-27-2008, 10:10 AM

Mando, just so everyone's on the same page;
Is this your set-up?

Steve

Jac Mac · #6 (**permalink**) 05-27-2008, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mando

Heres my problem. Ive got a 3 piece intake manifold where water exits through 4 -12 fittings, 2 at the front and 2 at the rear. I have diverted one at the rear to the heater which then exits the heater and loops around to the top connection on the water pump.
I have blocked off the lower connection.

Do I have a problem?????

Regards.

Yes, I think you will. The two rear -12 fittings are only there by design of the manifold & having it fit either L or R cylinder head, if anything the rears should only have a small bleed line (-3 ) to preclude air locks-thats all.

With that system if its using a T/Stat , heater & bypass takeoff barb/s should be fitted as close as possible to the manifold side of the T/Stat. Both of these should then return to those two fittings on the pump ( By-pass to the top currently in use & the heater return to the lower one currently blocked off.

In this manner the coolant will flow past the T/Stat bulb while in by-pass mode and cause the T/Stat to open as reqd, plus the heater if operated will also cause coolant to flow thru the whole engine.

The system as you have it now will have unequal cooling due to the heater removing coolant from one cyl head @ rear and the possibility that there will be less circulation in that cyl head due to this.

Mando · #7 (**permalink**) 05-27-2008, 09:57 PM

Hi Steve, yep thats my nightmare.
Hi Jac Mac, at this stage I dont have a t/stat. Do I need to install one? If so where would you suggest it would need to be fitted? I have installed a T fitting into the rear LH -12 line to feed the heater, then I have a -12 line where water exits the heater that runs to the header tank at the front of the motor.
Does it matter if it doesnt return to the waterpump?

Regards.

Jac Mac · #8 (**permalink**) 05-28-2008, 12:33 AM

Mando, do you or Steve have another pic of your system from either side, I was going to draw a sketch of your reqd hose layout, but would like a better pic before doing so.

The two -12 lines you currently have from the rear of the intake are not reqd in my view.

Water for the heater should be sourced from the housing with rad cap.

No coolant should be removed from the rear of the intake or heads ( other than a couple of very small bleed lines in some cases to help bleed any entrapped air only-no major flow - these should plumb into the same point the front -12 lines do by the radiator cap)

Return from Heater must return to suction side of pump IE the lower barb on pump that you currently have blocked off.

Thermostat- do you need one, in order for the heater to function & have quick warmup periods,Yes. If this is a dedicated track/race car you can fit a restrictor in the top radiator hose, in which case the bypass can be deleted, but only if its an out & out race car. Plus that looks like an electronic injection setup & I would imagine that engine temp will have an input into the computer that runs it.

Mando · #9 (**permalink**) 05-28-2008, 05:49 AM

Jac Mac, my car is a street car, so I will install a t/stat. and your right Ill be running an electronic injection setup.
Ive got some photos in my gallery that may show things a bit clearer.
Why is it a bad idea to have water exiting at the rear of the manifold at the same rate as at the front ?
What would be the differance if water to the heater comes from "the housing with rad cap" or the beginning of the line that feeds into that housing?

Regards.

Jac Mac · #10 (**permalink**) 05-28-2008, 01:56 PM

Mando, The majority of coolant flow in a Ford is In @ front of the cyl block, up thru the large transfer openings at the rear of block/heads, then forward thru cyl heads to Exit at front---- to provide a rear exit as you have there reduces the amount of coolant available to cool the cylinder heads.

By taking your heater feed from the 'New,yet to be fitted T/Stat housing or that Housing with rad cap' you will be taking an equal amount of coolant from both banks ensuring that flow remains even.

Seems to be a small server problem @ moment & cannot view your gallery pics. Will try later & draw up a diagram to post tonite.

Jac Mac · #11 (**permalink**) 05-28-2008, 08:23 PM

Mando,
While you could modify your current Radiator cap fitting, I would suggest you get somene to fabricate an assy similar to the one in the sketch attached and also purchase a header tank assy that can be remote mounted on the firewall. If you do this you will also be providing a source for your temp gauge /sensor fittings as well.

A Screw-On cap could be fitted on this assy @ top for initial fill purposes, but should not be necessary. As noted on the drawing the lower 5/8, -10 on the Header tank can be Tee'd into the heater return going back to the water pump.

Finally it would be wise to remove the 'goose-neck', in your Top Radiator hose by running it directly to the radiator to prevent the possibility of airlocks when filling.

Mando · #12 (**permalink**) 05-29-2008, 05:59 AM

Thats for all the help Jac Mac, Ill see what I can come up with. Im going to remove the "goose-neck" in the top radiator hose and make ma new header tank.

Regards.