Which Company makes "best" replica?

[Anthony]

What a great thread. It's about time someone finally asks this question.

first off, whatever you want, buy it used, unless you want a specific color/make, engine,etc.

You have to understand that the reason there are replica's, and I mean that in a sense that the parts are not interchangeable with the original design, is that to produce a cobra identical to the original is usually more expensive than using "off the shelf" parts that are used also for other automobiles. Replica's are really a compromise to the original design, using a different chassis set-up because it is cheaper, and some are cheaper than others. Maybe it's not as good as the original, maybe better, maybe it doesn't matter to you, you need to make that detrmination.

If you want original spec, then CSX4000 and kirkham are your choices. CSX4000 also has the cheaper fiberglass option with the original spec chassis. Aluminum does dent, easily in fact. Although the current Kirkham/aluminum CSX4000 car bodies are stronger than the original, it's still aluminum.

All other cobra's are compromises of the original design, again some good, maybe some not as good. All companies all there to sell you a car, i.e. make money, not necessarily the best designed product, but maybe the best for the money, maybe not.

Have fun, and whatever you do, don;t ruffle anybody's feathers.

[ENTDOC]

OK, I will bite.

1. Csx 4000 aluminum car

2.Kirkham

3. CSX fiberglass car

4. ERA

5. SPF

6. Unique

7. FFR (if new body style is available)

8. the above are "money not in the equation" picks

[PatBuckley]

Good answer, Chuck - I agree with the ranking but I do not think that the Shelby cars are replica's.

[Chaplin]

Thats right Pat, if it's a Shelby, it is a Real Cobra.

[ENTDOC]

I agree with that, but the thread has drifted towards them being categorized as such, so I lumped them in. Should be " best cobra available" to avoid confusion.

[Chaplin]

Well, if it is "best cobra available", then it can only be a CSX car since they are the only Real Cobras made. Everything else isn't a Cobra. Do some searches for posts by Real1, and you will see what I mean

[Mattnshilp]

I can't begin to thank you all for the suggestions you have made. I will make every effort to be at the June 7th event in New Hope, although my office and family life (3 young kids) usually ruins any plans for attendance at car events.

From what I have seen and looked into thus far, a real Cobra (ie. Shelby) and the Kirkham products are out of my price range. They look to be $90K+...

It would appear to me that the ERA and Superformance products are around the same price (mid $50-60's) and about the same quality, although I definitely get the feeling that the ERA enjoys a slightly better rep then SPF. I think Unique falls somewhere between the FFR/BackDraft level and the ERA/SPF level.

BackDraft and Factory Five seam to also be in the same category and in the same price-range ($35-50K??? I think)

How am I doing so far?

I guess my next and more specific question would then be:
If supreme accuracy to the original is not a priority, then what is the real difference between an ETA, SPF, FFR and BackDraft? Is it simply build quality or are there cosmetic differences as well?

Could a well trained eye tell the difference between an ETA and an FFR from across the street?

Finally, I have not seen "Classic Roadsters II" on the list anywhere... Are they not worth considering compared to the ones listed above?

I'm in no rush for acquisition as I will be placing an order for a Lotus Elise SC in the coming months. I then need to decide if I want the Caterham or the Cobra next (I am sure you would all suggest the Cobra).

Slowly working on a killer collection, but it will take time. Purchasing all and plan on selling none.Desperately hoping my wife doesn't divorce me along the way!!!

Keep the suggestions coming! This has been awesome for me, and I am sure many others are benefiting from it as well!!!

-Matt

PS. CobraCountry seams to be THE place to find a pre-owned Cobra. Are they any others to consider?

PPS. - Do they make replica 1956-1961 Corvette C-1's? I can't find ANYTHING, which totally shock's me...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Mattnshilp

Could a well trained eye tell the difference between an ERA and an FFR from across the street?
-Matt

From across the street, across town, even across the country....

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

ERA is a car engineered in the 1980's, and thus in my opinion is a better car than a Shelby or Kirkham, which use the old style round tube ladder type frame (high flex) and are as close to the original as possible. It all depends on what you want. Close to real...Shelby (name brand) or Kirkham. Real looks but modern engineering...ERA. High volume factory (assembly-line) build...SPF. All the others fall somewhere in between, but are not necessarily less of a Cobra. It may well depend on the person who builds each individual car.
Everyone has an opinion and they mostly differ from one another. I'm sure the Shelby guys and Kirkham guys will not agree, but that's what this forum is for. Whatever your choice, it will be the right choice for you.

[ENTDOC]

using that logic, the FFR was engineered in the nineties and thus superior to the ERA. I am glad someone finally figured out how best to judge these things.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

using that logic, the FFR was engineered in the nineties and thus superior to the ERA. I am glad someone finally figured out how best to judge these things.

That's not what he meant (and you know that). What he was trying to say is that if the Shelby name is not important to you, and an aluminum body is not important to you, ERA is the best engineered and built Cobra -- period (assuming the boys in New Britian did the building, that is). The argument definately has merit, but that's not what this thread is all about.

[Mattnshilp]

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

I visit ERA almost weekly (I'm treated like family) and I see the many updates used in their design and construction every time I'm there. They constantly update their car. Within the last year alone they have more refinements than most builders/constructors have in a lifetime of Cobra building. I'm not taking anything away from the others, just stating my own opinion and observations.

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

Originally Posted by Mattnshilp

What is the difference cosmetically between an ERA and an FFR/BDR?

I can certainly understand that engineering (on the inside) makes a HUGE difference in price and quality. But shouldn't they all look pretty much the same?

My goal is to enjoy a "Cobra" style replica that I can drive down the street and feel like I am driving a little bit of Americana. If the front fender flare comes out 10 degrees instead of the real Cobra's 12 degrees, that doesn't bother me. I guess that's why I want to know what the difference is cosmetically. I need to know if the difference is enough to justify (in my case) the added expense.

And, how about safety? Are they all about the same in that regards? Will an ETA handle a crash better then an FFR?

Thanks again!

-Matt

Visit the ERA website yourself. They have a page that compares several Cobra profiles.

[ENTDOC]

I do not recall any incidents of flex problems with Kirkhams or new CSX cars, and I would not call using 80's era Jag rear ends and square tube ladder chassis particularly modern( have you seen the Kirkham susp pieces and new aluminum diffs?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

I would not call using 80's era Jag rear ends...

The ERA rear is probably the best in the business. See http://erareplicas.com/427/frsusp.htm

Originally Posted by ENTDOC

... and square tube ladder chassis particularly modern...

You missed that one too (by a longshot). See http://erareplicas.com/misc/stress/deslogic.htm

[RICK LAKE]

ENTDOC You can build a Jag rearend for about 600-650 HP and Tork with the right parts and rear support cover for the carrier caps. A 30 spline axle over a 27gives 30% more strength. If you look up the OLD kitcars back in the early 80's there was a test done with anyone who was building cobras. The bottom line is that square tubing is more ridged that round tubing. It also cost more to buy. ERA doesn't use there bodies to provide any structure support of the frame. The test is picking up a cobra in one front corner and lift 2 other wheels off the ground. The round frames on SOME cobras need the body for support. These cars the bodys get cracks to the mounting points. I can't count the number of times I have lifted my car either from the front end or side and to date there are no noises from the car being lifted. You can't say that about other cars. Pick 3 wheels off the ground and see if yours makes noise. Yes I know it's not good for the car. Aluminium differents have been tried over and over again. Going back to the 70-71 Olds Cutlass or Buick 442. The center carrier was aluminium housing was aluminium and they would break very easy. The back lash and side loads would get too loose and blow the rearends. It didn't work then with 375 HP and 500 ft of torque. Today the machine work is better but you still have a HP and torque limit to them. Cast iron is still stronger. If you are looking for the best engineered cobra for suspension, the winner is a BDR with cantalever front suspension setup. You can fine tune this setup better than any other setup, IMO. I have seen just about every cobra in an accident except an originial. At Mid Ohio race track at Run&Gun in 1998 or 1999. Stacy P driving and ERA ran off the track at turn 13 at about 120mph+, damage to the car was both coolers, front nose cone, left quick lift support was heavy damaged. Driver was bruised and walked away with a headache. This was a head on hit. The frame was still straight except for the lift point. I have seen other cars with tweaked frames with less of a hit. ERA cars are heavy and solid. At 2705 lbs with an all aluminium motor and half tank of gas, thats a tank on wheels. I never want to do a head on test with my car, but feel I have a good chance of walking away. As others have said the best built cobra is the one in your garage you built and work on. Your money pocket is a major factor in buying a replica. Aluminium body cobra are beautiful but where do you go to get a dent in the skin repaired? The cost again fiberglass is about 3 to 1. Last point, Aluminium is lighter but steel is still alot stronger for front end parts. Aluminium expands more that steel does. I can always make more power to off set the weight differents. Rick L

[ENTDOC]

so the BDR is the more modern and thus the better cobra. I never said the Jag rear end was not good, but it is not modern. My lowly little Hunter cobra could also be lifted at the corners without any noises, and the body provided no structural support(do they even make replica cobras that do any more?), all for a 23 thousand dollar investment. My point in all of this has nothing to do with ERA quality, I was just responding to the statement that ERA was very modern and thus so superior to a Kirkham or CSX car, I just dont see it frankly, and because ERA 's website says that a square tube frame is stronger does not make it fact. I honestly do not know which is stronger but the FFR guys keep telling us how strong their frame is, again that does not make it so. Fix a dent by the way can repair a dent in an aluminum cobra for about 35 dollars and 20 minutes , try that with a glass car.

[Jamo]

Hell, I would take my old Butler in a head-on smash contest with anything else anyone is talking about here. Nothing has ever been built stronger.

Anybody building an above-ground pool could do a fair job of making a typical replica out of glass.

...and then there is pure, unadulturated classic metal beauty and advanced engineering that has never relied on a junkyard for it's parts list. Kirkham.

Sorry...every other make requires an explanation, including a Shelby (requires a treatise actually). You only need to look at a Kirkham to know the truth.

[ICBomber90]

[quote=Jamo;847376]...and then there is pure, unadulturated classic metal beauty and advanced engineering that has never relied on a junkyard for it's parts list. Kirkham.
[quote]

Must be great to have $80k+, best replica is the one you can afford because at the end of the day someone has to pay the bill....

By the way I love EVERY junkyard part in my Cobra because without them no Cobra for me!!!