Frame derusting and painting

[289ACE]

I recent procured another basket case AC Ace that was powered by a 289 and has some heavy rust on the frame and suspension. I am in the process of planning the rebuild for it and have a few questions about the rust removal and frame painting.

Rust Removal or stabilization-
From what I have read, I can either remove the rust via blasting or stabilize what is there. I am leaning towards blasting, (if it is allowed in the republic of Kalifornia) but does anyone have any POR15 (or Eastwood encapsulator) experience that shows how well it has held up on applications for over 12years? Maybe doing both is the best way to go? Finally, does anyone know of any blasing operations in Southern Cal, preferably Ventura area?

Paint vs powder coat-
I am leaning towards powder coating if available locally, but if I encapsulate, is it compatible with powdercoating? Also, if I blast only and use etching primer, are there any issues with powder coating? I sounds like the eastwood rust encapsulator is not supposed to be used over etching primer so I probably need to decide what my complete path is before starting
TIA,
Jay

[mickmate]

The trouble with old tube cars is they rust from the inside out. I'm not sure what people recommend if anyhting to treat that. I like to remove external rust by blasting but find sandblast gets in everywhere and you can tell where the car has been from the beach underneath it. I have used POR and the first time I tried some was on the back bumper of my truck in the rust belt, still going strong after 5 years. I like powdercoat also but find it shows every little scratch especially on the high gloss. It is put on at 400 deg so anything that doesn't like heat or could flake or bubble is not going to work under it. Keep researching you'll find what works for you.

[computerworks]

Originally Posted by 289ACE

I recent procured another basket case AC Ace that was powered by a 289 and has some heavy rust on the frame and suspension.

Rust Removal or stabilization-
From what I have read, I can either remove the rust via blasting or stabilize what is there. I am leaning towards blasting...

I've never done it myself...but it seems that on most all the hot rod / restoration shows, the first step is to strip the car to the frame and "send the frame out for media blasting."

...most all these guys that do the shows are also in SoCal

[wtm442]

I have used POR-15 on various stuff and it works great. Of course, its the cheap way out of a problem. If you are spending a lot of money on the restoration, go with frame-off and have it sand/media blasted. Spend at least 30 minutes with air hose getting stuff out of frame. Then tip frame over and 30 minutes more with air hose. Tip over and repeat air hose blow-out at least another couple of times. Mickmate was right about the beach under the car. Then paint or powder coat. Eastwood has a ton of good stuff for rust encapsulation, chemical stripping and home powder coating.

If its just rusty in a few places on the frame, just scrape, wire brush area and paint. I'm not sure what the best way is to remove heavy rust from the inside of a frame. Maybe there is a "chemical dip rust removal" service in your area. This is very effective, but it sure ain't cheap.

Anything that easily unbolts from the frame should be blasted and then finished.

I found a business that does cemetery headstones that does auto parts blasting at a very reasonable price (IE - cheap).

[tcrist]

Most powder coaters have blasting there on their premises. You could have it all done at 1 time. If you are going to do any mods to the frame you could have it blasted and then powder coated later. As long as you have it powder coated within a few months of blasting, more rust should not be a problem as any rust would be just surface rust and easy for the powder coater to remove.
Suggestion, find a powder coater that has done auto work before. Go onto a "socal" hot rod forum (CHR) and find out from them who they use.

JMO, Terry

[601HP]

289ACE,
A little more clarification for you. Powder coating is done on bare metal. Any type of surface covering such as primer would interfere with the process. Even oily finger prints on the metal surface can impede the initial static cling of powder, and subsequent flowout of the powder during the heat cycle.

I've been powder coating small parts for several years.

David

[289ACE]

Thanks for the info guys. First of all I will be removing the body as the rust on the frame is extensive and needs to be dealt with one way or another including under where the aluminum folds around the tubes. I have an additional problem in that the PO decided to improve the car a bit and cut off the engine mounts, steering mount, and a couple of outriggers so he could replace them. With that going on, I am not sure when to do the rust removal/stabilization. I realize after welding the new pieces I will need to do final painting/coating, but I would like to be working on a reasonably clean frame while fit checking everything.
David, Thanks for the info on the powder coating. I did not realize it had to be bare meatl, so I will factor that into my thinking as I decide to move forward. I'll try to post a picture later of what I am up against in case that helps jog some more ideas loose.
Jay

[289ACE]

Here are a couple of pics of the frame that I am working on.