Aluminum Radiator

[Allan A]

My aluminum radiator started to leak at the top near the hot water inlet, the radiator shop is telling me that aluminum radiators have problems with certain types of anti freeze. I have been using Prestone (green), I have an iron block. Has anyone else had this problem and what anti freeze should be used?

Thanks,

Allan

[Bartruff1]

by the installer to change the anti freeze every year...

[ERA Chas]

Aluminum and "green" are absolutely fine. Have used same since 1997 with changes every 2-3 years. Use the pre-mixed 50-50 variety and a pump lubricant.
Also for the leak, buy the Bars Leaks TABLETS (not the brown liquid) at your local parts store and put in three to six tablets. Works perfectly and until you drain the system. Just renew with new coolant.

[1985 CCX]

Alan,

I use water, water wetter with only a pint of (green)antifreeze. Seems to keep everything running smoothly.

Jeff

[RodKnock]

From what I understand, modern aluminum radiators require a special antifreeze that's not your typical Prestone green. In fact, I think it's orange, but I can't remember the special ingredient it contains. Distilled water is recommended too, instead of tap water due to the mineral content of tap water.

Also, since you MAY have two dissimilar metals, aluminum heads and cast iron block, so it's highly recommended that a sacrificial anode be used.

[Rick Parker]

About 3 years ago there was a LLLLOOOONNNNGGGGG thread regarding various types of antifreeze. One of the things to come out of it was that some of the rubber that is used by certain head gasket makers for sealing coolant holes and ports was not compatiible with the Orange Coolant/antifreze.

[jwd]

Use Zerex G-05 antifreeze (expensive but it's good for 5 years), distilled water, a zinc anode in your drain plug and make sure your radiator is grounded to the frame.

Jim

[mickmate]

I believe the Prestone your using is recommended for aluminum and about any other metals we use. I would sure check the grounding suggested as electrolysis eats radiators (and heater fittings and intakes on SBC's). I have seen radiators with nothing but tubes left and no fins from those darned little stray currents.

[Allan A]

Thanks,

I will look into the options.

Allan

[Tinker51]

I think the fluid is fine but I would have a sacrificial anode. The anode is easier to replace than the radiator.

[vettestr]

I use the green because it is less expensive but add 2 qt's of Prestone anti-rust & water pump lubricant. The mix is replaced each year as I get her ready for another summer. Make sure you have a ground strap from the radiator to the chassis and the cooling fans ground wire does not count. Electrolysis with the many metal types (alum. heads - cast iron block - brass freeze plugs etc..) and a fiberglass body mandates a good PH balance of fresh coolant.

You can not mix the 2 colors of coolant but if system is flushed and clean you can change from one to the other. You can also use a litmus paper to check your coolant condition or PH reading, cheap and easy to do.

[Steve Gallegos]

Today while driving in the mountains, air temp 85F, and on the highway, air temp 99F, my temp got up to 216F and there was a burning smell. Oil temp was good at 70C and oil pressure was good, I am running a stroked 351W with new Edelbrock EFI with an A/F mixture of 13. Any ideas?