What should this cost?

[SkipB]

I have been trying to find/stop a stubborn small oil leak from my 351W block. It leaks only when cold and oil appears on the floor under the rear of the engine. It now seems to be a rear main seal. So, as I understand it, the engine and tranny have to be removed to fix this.

First, is this true? The whole engine and transmission have to be pulled to fix this?
Second, assuming this is true, how much should this cost? I don't have the time, space, tools or expertise to do it myself.
Third, is it possible that it is some other thing leaking?

Good, realistic input would be appreciated.

SkipB

[Wayne Maybury]

How much mileage is on the engine?

Are you using synthetic oil?

Is there anything else you can tell us about the engine?

Generally it is very difficult to change a rear main oil seal with the engine in the car.

Wayne

[SkipB]

Wayne,

3500+ miles, started leaking about 500 miles ago.

I am not using synthetic oil.

Engine built in 2004, "seasoned" block (aka old, but refurbished) pro built by Smeding Performance. No problem or leaks until recently.

I did have a leak where the oil cooler lines attached to the block but had the part/gasket changed, so no problem there.

[CobraEd]

Just pull the pan and the rear bearing cap and push out the top half of the seal. Then replace top and bottom halfs of the seal. Seal the ends with gasket sealer and then put a good coat of oil on them to lube against the crank surface.

.

[SkipB]

Guys,

I just got quoted $1500.00 to pull my engine/tranny, fix the leak, and reinstall. What do you think?

SkipB

[Rick Parker]

It is not necessary to pull both. If it is an older block, it is a 2 piece main seal and can be changed while still in the car as described by CobraEd above. At $1500 , that's about $350 an hour, maybe more. What do YOU think? If it is a newer block with a 1 piece seal, the trans, clutch and flywheel all need to be removed. $1500 still seems quite high as the job can certainly be done in less than a day.

[Tim Brewer]

If you don't want to do it yourself, bring your car to a tranny shop. Only the trans needs to be pulled to change the seal. I've done the job in my garage on jackstands for about $15.00. I would stay clear of the shop that wants to pull thee engine and trans

[SkipB]

Guys,

Thanks for all the input. I need to find out the age of my block and will look for numbers this weekend.

Rick,
When you say "older block", what years are you referring to? Same with "newer block"? I am hoping it is an older one.

The mechanic charges $90.00/hour. I am not sure how he came to $1500.00 other than a lot of hours and a few dollars in parts! I thought it was extremely high myself. He has done quite a bit of work on other guys Cobras and Daytonas, so I assume he knows what he is doing, just high priced I guess!

SkipB

[round_midnight]

Skip-

Armond did one for me a couple of years ago for around $150. He didn't even pull the transmission. He said that all he had to do was loosen the bellhousing and slide everything back about a half inch. Now that I think about it, though, that doesn't make total sense, because the flywheel would prevent moving the bellhousing backing plate back. (I have a McLeod steel bellhousing.) He must have accomplished it somehow, though, because when I got the car back, it didn't leak any more.

('round Midnight = the other Skip)

[SkipB]

Skip,

Thanks, I'll check this out.

Skip

[Cashburn]

There are some decent additives on the market now that can actually handle a minor leak, like the one you are describing.

Older blocks are often machined to accept the later model one piece rear main seal. In either case, just the trans comes out and it is a 1/2 - 3/4 day job. The shop that tells you to pull the motor does not work on BDRs often.

Try a simple additive first, there are better people to make recommendations than me so let's see.

[CobraDan]

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=383

[Double Venom]

May I suggest before you spend a dime......... Auto parts stores will sell an additive that shows up under black light. Put the additive in, use the black light and find out "EXACTLY" what is leaking. For all you know it could be nothing more than the rear seal on the intake or a back corner of a valve cover. IOf your oil sending unit is on the back it may even be that.
1. Go to a parts store buy leak detective
2. Go to a 25C carwash and wash the motor with soap and hot water
3. Drive it home let it dry
4.Put the additive in it and let it run
"Find the ACTUAL' leak with the black light, which may not be necessary to use.

Then repair it!

Haven't used Cobra Dans trick for years but am getting ready to on my wifes car as we speak.
DV

[MT nester]

I have had good luck with Fel-pro's 2 piece rear main seal. It is not a piece of rope like the ones we used to use a sneaky pete on. The fel-pro's two piece rear main seal is just like a modern seal but it comes in two pieces.

[Rick Parker]

MT nester gives a good recommendation. Be aware that if you currently have "Rope seal" the pin that secures the Rope seal in its groove must be removed and the hole plugged with silicone or similar to use the 2 piece rubber seal.

[McD00]

If it's a two piece rear main seal I always stagger the parting line of the seal with the main cap. Real good luck doing that....no leaks.

McVette

[Clois Harlan]

I have a two piece rear seal on my 427 and I stagger mine as well and I use just a tiny dab of silicone on the back side. No leaks there but I have had trouble in the past getting my intake completely sealed up.

$1500 is extremely high and you need to look to another shop for all your work. Everyone needs to make a profit to stay in business but that is a lot of money for your issue. I recently pulled a friends engine in about two hours (just the engine - we left the transmission in the car) in about two hours. After that you would only need to mount your engine to an engine stand and rotate the whole thing over, remove the 20 or so pan bolts, then remove your 5 main caps, remove and replace the rear seal, re-install the main caps and torque them down then re-install your oil pan, and stick it back in the car. All that took maybe an hour after getting the engine out of the car and the seal cost about $10.00. New oil pan gasket another $12.00.

In short the whole job shouldn't take more than 6 or 7 hours and at the very most should not cost more than $500. IF you do it from under neat then $150 should be about right.

Clois