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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 09:56 AM
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I really like the look of these. How are they to drive in? I'm 6'1" and I wonder how much of the nogin would be above the windshield to catch bugs or rocks? I was driving down the freeway in my last car and a rock came over the windshield (1 in a million shot) and pegged me in the top of the head! Luckily I had a ball cap on. The wind wings and visors are nice in the full size wind shield for wind breaks.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 10:04 AM
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Franklin,

LOL,

Maybe you need a "Gurney" windscreen.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 10:08 AM
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Found this in the archives: Note, this is for replacing the original windshiel with Lexan.

Windshield replacement information

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I had an encounter with rock and my windshield last weekend and after doing some research and receiving advice from some other members I use the following solution:

Researching replacement of the glass with glass meant $108 - $385 for the glass plus shipping (about $100) pretty expensive. The other option is to use Polycarbonate (Lexan) @ about $125.

I ,like many others, opted for the Lexan (270% stronger than glass and cheaper) however it's not DOT rated due mainly to it's susceptibility to scratching. Even with the Abrasion resistant coating Lexan is NOT recommended for use if you are going to use wipers, it will scratch.


The following are the steps I took to replace the my windshield:

Tools:
5' - 6' table with carpeting on top to make the job easier
52" x 17" x 1/4 Lexan AR (abrasion resistant)
Spray bottle with soapy water
Phillips screwdriver
1" Masking tape
Butcher paper
Sharpie marking pen
A little patience

1) remove the old windshield from the 2 arms by removing the 4 screws on each arm.

2) remove the 4 screws at each corner of the windshield frame ( these screws go into a brackets on each side and I found that it was easiest to take out all 4)

3) lay the windshield curve down and carefully remove the bottom frame, starting at on end and slowly working toward the other, DO NOT PRY against the glass and try to not to twist the bracket, either may cause the glass to break. Note: once you get the frame started off spray some of the soapy water in the channel to help the gasket to release

4) Follow the same process as 3 to remove the main frame

5) At this point you should have the old glass out and in one piece, Place the butcher paper under the glass (Glass again curve down) and starting at one end tape the paper to the glass making sure that it is firmly against the surface. Using the sharpie trace the pattern onto the paper.

6) Now this is IMPORTANT, cut the pattern you have just made to the INSIDE of the line. If you cut to the outside leaving the mark on the paper your pattern will be to big.

7) At this point you have two options: You can transfer and cut the pattern yourself to the Lexan or you may be able to have your plastic supplier do it for you.

8) If you choose to do it yourself, you will need a good jig saw with a blade suitable for plastic. Lay the pattern out on your sheet , taping it in place, and trace it.

9) Using your jig saw and taking your time, cut out the pattern this time cut directly on the line

Installation

10) remove gasket from the frame, or from the glass depending on where it remained, being careful not to tear it.

11) Take the Lexan and roll the protective paper off of the edges about 1" and place the main frame gasket (the larger piece) around the edge or the Lexan.

You will need an extra set of hands for the next part

11) Spray the gasket the soapy water and position the frame with the legs up and with the gasket down position the Lexan so that one gasket side is against one leg and the bottom is parallel and slightly above with the frame (since the frame is curved and the Lexan is flat it will not yet be in the channel) bend the Lexan into place on the remaining leg while insuring that the bottom is inline with the frame channel. At this point the Lexan should be sitting above or partially in the frame channel , spray it down one more time with the soapy water and firmly and evenly press the Lexan into the channel.

12) Your almost done, take the remaining frame piece and loosely replace the end brackets and perform a "dry fit" to insure that the brackets will fit ( I needed to bend my brackets slightly so that the hole would line up)

13) place the remaining gasket on the exposed edge of the Lexan spray it with soapy water and evenly press the remaining frame piece into place.

14) A little manipulation may be required to get these tiny screws to start. I used an awl to align one hole then inserted the screw in the other.

15) Well at this point you have your glass replaced and all that's left is to re-install it on the car, then peel off the protective paper and go.

Good luck.

Mike 'monster'

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Last edited by Monster : 04-25-2007 at 06:14 PM.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 12:37 PM
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Correct on the height there, Brett. About 12".

You need to buy a shrinker/stretcher from Eastwood or someone if you don't have one already. You will also need a 48" brake.

As far as the "footprint" of the w/s mount - I made mine so that the rivet holes would be under the original w/s. That way when I put the original w/s back on those rivet holes would ne be seen.

The main difficulty in doing this project is that you are dealing with about three angles....for sure use cardboard templates so you get those angles right.

You do know about annealing the aluminum before you work with it, right?

Pat

Thanks for the pics, Jamo - I hadn't seen a couple of them before.
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Old 08-28-2008, 02:21 PM
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Great info, Thanks Pat,

I get someone who knows how to.

Bret.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 02:31 PM
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What's wrong with a quarter windscreen?

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Old 08-28-2008, 02:57 PM
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Pesky things like wives and girlfriends?
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Old 08-28-2008, 03:06 PM
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Thats what the goggles are for.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2008, 08:54 PM
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I recall an article in M&M (Makes & Models Magazine) April '07 that pictured two KMP fully polished Cobras. One with a full windscreen and one with only the bubble (quarter windscreen), but apparently they are both the same car owned by Brent Mills.

The verbage of the write-up in fact indicates: "Changable racing/street windshields".

I have never heard of this before. How difficult a process is it to swap these out?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2008, 07:45 AM
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Real easy.

2 fasteners on each side that attach the w/s frame to the chassis.

Then you have to mount the rear view mirrors on the body - I used the holes that the w/s mounts left as I recall.
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Old 09-03-2008, 08:40 AM
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Great pictures Migge!

Clois Harlan
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2008, 10:01 AM
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when I became the keeper of the famous Buckley racing shield, my intentions were to put it on in the summer and then replace the normal windshield for winter use. After I got the Buckley unit on, I never thought the old style windshield looked good, so I kept the racing one on all the time. If I were to get another cobra, I would try to refab the racing shield.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2008, 11:14 AM
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What about KMP 259's windshield?



There was a picture in Trevor Legate's new book of a half height windshield as well that looked really cool too.
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Old 09-08-2008, 09:57 AM
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My personal opininon, but "The buckley" looks better. I have some MR10 coming. One size for the racing screen, and one size to replace the original windshield in case I fluck up the former.
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