Trying to make Glass Fiber access panel

[pcoghlan]

So I have a square access hole in the transmission tunnel through which I can perform various maintenance chores. Bleeding the clutch, etc etc. The car is very snug around the frame and transmission and so this was a near mandatory requirement.

I now need to make up a cover to go over this access hole and am trying to work out how to do this...

I have the matting and resin but how can I make a simple square panel without it sticking to whatever I make it on top of? There must surely be a simple material I can lay the resin/matting on that it wont stick to? I hope this makes sense. The wife suggested saran wrap, make sense?

Thanks,
Paul

[trularin]

I added an access panel for the trans tunnel as well.

I used aluminum as the cover.

[Mister]

I have an access panel/hole on top of my transmission tunnel. It is simply covered by a thin sheet of aluminum that is bent over the vertical sides of the tunnel. The panel is then covered by the carpet.
It is not apparent with the carpet in place and provides easy access to the top of the transmission.
It has been problem.....leak, noise, heat etc. free after several 1,000 miles of driving.
Mike

[pcoghlan]

Thanks guys. I will locate a metal supplier in the morning.

Paul

[vettestr]

Paul,
Grab anything from a drip pan to a piece of sheet-metal. Apply a couple of coats of car wax to the entire area, wiping clean between coats. Apply resin to area then wet out mat right over the top keeping it very resin rich or heavy. This is because the resin over a waxed area will try to fish eye but the wetted mat will help stop that. Mix the resin a little hot so you do not have to babysit from fisheyes very long.

After first layer has kicked or set up hit area with like 40 grit paper just to scuff up well and apply additional layers at normal resin to mat ratio until desired thickness. Let finished product sit on metal surface overnight or put out in sun for a while. Depending on type - quality of resin it will shrink and curl if you remove to soon. An air blow gun or a scrapper under a corner will remove from sheet metal. Applying resin and mat against metal will give a smooth surface to make door out of for your needs. Have fun.

[pcoghlan]

Thanks Jeff, I will look at both routes and try to work out what makes most sense. This information will be useful whichever way I go! I know I will be having to make up a couple of other items anyway.

Paul

[vettestr]

you're welcome.

[Tom Cimino]

I would go the aluminum route too. I worked in fiberglass hand layup for many years building motor homes and sailing yachts. It's itchy and messy. A simple access panel will look better, out of aluminum. If you need to build a small part, (I did a fan shroud) make a mockup (plug) out of wood, spray with 3M sprayable body filler, sand with 400 wet or dry. Polish and wax the plug. Gelcoat and lay the fiberglass. You will be making a mold. Pop the mold off the plug. polish and wax the mold and you can make as many copies of the part you need. Maybe even sell some.

By the way, If anyone needs a fan shroud, I have a nice mold.

[Double Venom]

Paul.
Makiing, many panels over the years for street rod door panels, (acesss for power windows, locks, trunk-floor access covers for rear end quick changes to the likes of a transmission cover......aluiminum is easiest. but the best fitting is a fiberglass cover made by using 'tightly pulled 'Saran Wrap!" as the base.....Hooray for your wife!
DV

[Double Venom]

PS.,
I just looked around the shop and I have quite a few 'flat panels of different sizes.....If you want tell me the size you want-make it at least an inch bigger on all sides, send me an address and I will drop it in the mail for you.
DV

[pcoghlan]

You do realize I won't hear the end of the saran wrap thing!

To be fair she helps out on the car and will happily lie underneath holding parts while I fit them. I am a lucky guy!

Thanks for the offer on the panel DV. I will drop you a PM.

Paul

[fastraxsg]

We've used aluminum foil sheets from the kitchen for small parts, taped it down to keep it flat.
You aren't converting to left hand drive are you? You can have your passenger hold both hands up in the air everything you go around a round about, good fun to see folks faces...even better at panic stops at stop signs...

[vettestr]

Hey DV,
Great tip on using Suran Wrap or the likes and allows a panel to follow or match the contour in some cases but this puts the smooth or finished side down. Many ways to skin a cat for sure. Many times a finished side is not important but now he has a method to choose either top or bottom side finished.

[1985 CCX]

Thin gauge ally can be purchased at a local hardware store. A box of rivots and a gun will finish the job. Cost ~$20bucks and there is no mess......

[Double Venom]

vettstar,
Another of my tricks with saran wrap, if you have a curved or coumpound type of surface and the saran wrap wont stay where you want it...sags, balloons away..falls off, just use a light coat of spray glue to hold it in place. When your glass starts to harden a few minutes pull the whole thing off--to clean up any glue residue-WD-40 works great! Let it soak a minute or two then dry cloth will take it right off. (WD-40 hint came from "Ethan Allen Furniture Brokerage!")
DV

[trularin]

Paul, she can say she had something to do with the making of the car.

She may end up being out there telling you what to do on the next thingy.

You better use the Saran wrap just to keep in her good graces.

Forget I said anything about Aluminum.

OR you could say you HAD to have Ed make it and ship it to you and not tell her the Saran wrap was a good idea...but then again. You might have a slight problem if you go out in public with this knowledge floating around the internet. Her girl friends will be emailing my post to her.

Oh crap...forget I said anything.

[KevinW]

for laying up a small area I have used strips of brown parcel tape to stop the glass matting sticking to the area I was moulding onto - fibreglassing onto the non-sticky side. Just peels off aftwards when the fibreglass is dry. Cheap and easy, and forms a smooth finish. Occassoinal dinks (caused by air bubbles and my cr*p skil level) can be filled later with body filler and sprayed over. Have to say i think ali would be an easier option here, if it can be fitted neatly round the aperture.

cheers,
Kevin

[CobraDan]

Paul,
If your access hole is not yet cut into your fiberglass transmission tunnel you all ready have your fiberglass panel. To re-install it just pop-rivet L shaped aluminum angle to the opening then drill holes into the fiberglass and then drill and tap corresponding holes in the angle to reattach with screws.

[pcoghlan]

Thanks Dan but the access panel was originally cut several years ago and I don't know where the cut out piece is.

Paul

[CobraDan]

Down here in Sunny Florida you might want to keep that opening just to let in a little cooler air into the cockpit area as summer is coming with its even warmer temperatures.