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04-12-2009, 10:01 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary,
AB
Cobra Make, Engine: Butler Racing/427 side oiler
Posts: 371
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Not Ranked
Jag Rear
Hi All , warming up here in Canada ...driving car soon!
Question I have is "how hard is it to do the rear wheel bearing on a Jag Rear?
Looks to be pretty simple but not sure if anything is simple on jag
Does anyone have a breakdown of the rear wheel assembly on a jag rear?
just seem to have a little too much play when I grab the rear wheels and give them a shake like you would to check wheel bearings.
A guy here wanted a thousand bucks ...told him forget it ..I will do the damm things myself...I cant see them taking 5 hours a side?
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04-12-2009, 12:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,011
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Not Ranked
The hub must be disassembled from the hub carrier and an internal shim changed.
http://erareplicas.com/427man/jagrear/rhub_axle.htm
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04-12-2009, 05:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: tauranga,
tga
Cobra Make, Engine: southern roadcraft (UK) 350 edelbrock performer rpm
Posts: 17
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Not Ranked
hi there i have a jag rear end on my car and one thing to check before you pull it apart is ,make sure its not free play on the lower fulcrum bearings as this will also give rocking movement when you shake the wheel. However if it is the wheel bearing ,all you have to do is remove the hub from the driveshaft and remove the lower wishbone keeping safe the bronze shim between the driveshaft and hub bearing.Removing the bearing and replacing is best done using a hydraulic press to avoid damaging the bearing or damaging the hub carrier .When you replace the carrier it is important to check the end float on the shaft after tightning (100 lbf ft). cheers Dave
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04-12-2009, 06:05 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: tauranga,
tga
Cobra Make, Engine: southern roadcraft (UK) 350 edelbrock performer rpm
Posts: 17
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Not Ranked
hi again Dave here ,I have a diagram of the jag rear end and can email to you if you give me your email cheers
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04-12-2009, 09:28 PM
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Regularly Offensive
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: yuba city,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: spf
Posts: 1,231
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Not Ranked
I use this place for jag info........ http://www.jag-lovers.org/ but then I have a Jag......
__________________
Ed
Too close for missles, switching to guns.........
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04-13-2009, 05:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,695
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Not Ranked
I took off the hubs and sent them to CWI. Got them back a short time later and all is well. They seemed like more hassle than it was worth to replace the bearings myself.
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04-13-2009, 05:54 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
It is not that easy
Scufty It looks simple but it is not. I did my twice before taking the mess up to ERA for the correct shims for the end play on the axles. I also had a new bearing seize in the rearend with 7 miles on it. When done right you have no end play if you grab the tire and wheel. when wrong you have a wobble in the backend you feel driving. Worst when going around turns. If you have a basic ability for repair, buy the parts and remove them from the car and take them to a garage to just replace the bearings in the housings. The biggest pain is getting the right shim depth for the axle. There are like 20 sizes to make this work. I beleive you can only buy them in groups of 10. MIc your orginial one on both side and try the next 5 sizes up and down for you rearend. Checking the wheel play will tell you to add or remove them for the correct end play. As for 5 hours, I think you are looking at a couple of days. If there is a Jag shop in your area, you might be able to buy just what you need. Rick L. Ps make sure you grease everything good and that the breather in the hub housing is clear and working. I went to ploy bushings on my rearend and got rid of the roller bearings. I did modify them for maken sure that grease would cover the whole bushing and extend the life on them. 13+ years of racing and still running the same ones.
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04-13-2009, 06:05 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oakham,
Ma
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham 592
Posts: 578
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Not Ranked
The hubs are similiar to vettes. When I did my vette hubs we made our own shims. That is the best way. So unless you have a surface grinder to get the shim perfect have it done. Any competent machinist can do it
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04-13-2009, 08:52 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Jersey Shore,
pa
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA#209 427SC, red, 427 sideoiler
Posts: 35
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Not Ranked
Jag problem, also
For what it's worth, I have a looseness in my Jag rear, also. If I grab the wheel top and bottom I can rock the wheel. Grabbing it front to back does not cause any rocking. I greased the Ujoints between the differential and the wheel and the looseness was much reduced.
I am going to replace the 4 universals that drive the wheels ASAP. The Jag uses the ujoints to maintain the camber vertically. I hope this is helpful.
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04-13-2009, 08:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary,
AB
Cobra Make, Engine: Butler Racing/427 side oiler
Posts: 371
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by david ****inson
hi again Dave here ,I have a diagram of the jag rear end and can email to you if you give me your email cheers
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heathk@shaw.ca thanks Dave
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