6" L x 3" W x 3" H (does not account for fittings, just the primary thermostat housing).

-Dean

Thanks Dean
That was what I was looking for.
Brent

If you drive it on the street, you definatly need a thermostat of some kind.

Oil has an operating range. If you want it to do all things that oil should do, it has to be kept in that range. Maximum temp is not hard to find, but minimum temp is. It seem like minimum would be around 180* or so. But some thermostats open at 220*, so an engineer somewhere thinks that's the minimum. Maybe it is, I don't know. In any case, it should be at least 180*.

Some people say that if you don't get the oil over 212* the water won't evaporate. That's not exactly true. Water evaporates at much lower temps. If it didn't, your kitchen floor would never be dry.

I tried a couple of sandwich type thermostats. Worked great in the summer. Oil temp stayed between 180-190* all the time. In the winter, though, getting the oil warm was almost impossible. Even when I covered the cooler with cardboard and duct tape.

So, I put a separate electric oil pump in, and run that only when the oil gets hot. I was at the track last week and it worked really well. Now the engine oil pump only pumps oil through the engine, just as designed from the factory.

A good option for an occasional track car would be a heat exchanger. In the winter the oil is heated by the hotter coolant. In the summer, the oil is cooled by the coolant. It works to keep the oil and water temp about the same. Ford used that set up on a number of differant cars and trucks.

I bought one from Beaumont and really like it. It is nicely designed and well made in my opinion.

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/va...ve-600X400.jpg

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/index-perf-ap.html


After reading here on CC, I was worried that the external oil filter hardware was choking off my oil pressure so I wanted to upgrade to bigger lines anyway and this valve was made for size 12 hoses. When I finished installing it, my oil pressure increased which only confirmed to me that my old size 10 plumbing was robbing my engine of pressure.

Get the valve...but also get the adaptor and move up to 12 hose. Adding a thermosate and all that other plumbing was just going to add more restrictions so I went this route instead and have never looked back.

joe

This is a winter project I have finally decided to undertake. I have decided to use the C&R cooler bypass. It gets good reviews from the Cup teams. This is a current example on EBAY
130779523879. It can also be viewed on the C&R Racing website. Very high quality too. The filter mount can be changed out for 13/16 to allow for somewhat shorter filter or with 1 1/8" nipple allows for Full size (like FL1 Ford but with larger threaded opening.

Has anyone made up a bracket so this could be a direct replacement for a standard remote filter adapter (by "standard" I mean my own set up of course :p). This unit comes with a bracket, but not the right one for this application.

Here's what my remote filter adapter set-up looks like:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../photo-171.jpg

Wow....So much ado about ???..!!! Over thinking , over engineering. Leave the filter as the designers designed it, on th e block. If a cooler is needed a simple adapter at the filter really inexpensive will be more than anyone but a full on race car needs..???g

Some of the cars do not have room to put an adapter between the filter an the block, it interferes with the frame rail. THAT'S why we re engineer them, plus THAT'S half the fun.

I know........I know!!!!!!!............:):)

I have the Canton unit and am happy with it. I did the cardboard thing and it was a pita! Now it reaches 200+ quickly in winter and stays there regardless. Cost wasn't a factor, I needed it. Cliff

I did a run today, the same run I did early August- air temp that day was hot, around 38 deg C, today probably 15 deg C. On the Autoroute (freeway) at a constant 60mph @2800rpm I was seeing 100-110 deg oil temp in August, today, never got above 80deg.
So I thought 'bout time I got the duct tape out!'
If you use grey, you hardly notice it.
Mark

I used to use cardboard to cover the oil cooler and part of the radiator, to get my coolant and oil temps up during my winter drives to and from work.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ter_Snake1.jpg

I now use the Beaumont adjustable oil cooler bypass valve (along with upgrading my lines AND oil cooler to AN12) and the temps come up quite nicely, along with a "cleaner" look in the winter (relatively speaking).

Here is my setup.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/DSC09232.JPG

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/s_Cobra5.jpg

Jim Kellogg

Wont be much different than most said here, but i have a 427W and the oil stays at an incredibly low temp....usually below 80C. So, I had a thermostat installed to make sure it stays open until approx 195C, but it hardly ever gets there regardless. I notice the car runs better with hotter oil temp but ....it is what it is. My water temp rarely exceeds 195 either, but the fan hits on at that temp so all is good.
basically the car runs cool vs hot and never have any issues.
fred z

It is generally accepted that oil needs to get to 180*F to operate correctly. Oil tests for viscosity, wear, etc, is usually done at 100*C. 80*C is about 176*F. Your temps are close to operating temps but not quite there yet.

I'm not sure what you mean about the thermostat, though. You want it to stay closed until it hits 195-200*F or so. 195*C is over 300*F. I suspect you mean 195*F is when the thermostat opens.

But, even when closed, it allows about 10% of the oil to flow through the cooler. That's why your oil never gets up to operating temp.