Electric Short burning Fuse No 1 on CSX 4000 Series

Ricardo Singer · #1 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 12:19 AM

Good Evening Gentleman:

I need help figuring out an electric short that my car has and I can’t figure out what it may be. My car is a Shelby CSX 4000 series.
Fuse No 1 (Turn signal fuse) burns every time I flip a switch that is located on the upper left side of the speedometer, lets say at 11.00 O’clock.

I have no idea what the switch is for and unfortunately, the car did not come with an owner’s manual explaining what the switches are for.

If anyone in the club has any thoughts and ideas, they are welcome and very much appreciated.

I would appreciate someone telling me what the switch is for.

Thank you very much

PANAVIA · #2 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 01:32 AM

If it ((CSX4000)) is following standard 427SC Dash layout == It is the FAN switch, so it is the control voltage to "activate" the fan relays ( or should be )

Ricardo Singer · #3 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 01:39 AM

Thank you.
Do you think the fuse may be burning because of a faulty relay?
Now I recall, the switch activates the under dash fan for the heater.

PANAVIA · #4 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 01:56 AM

it may be through a relay- it may be direct.

if the FAN is jammed, that might pop a fuse. --

Ricardo Singer · #5 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 02:02 AM

That is exactly the switch.
Thank you very much for taking the time and taking the picture for me.
I will look into this in the morning, will troubleshoot and post the outcome.

Again thank you.

PANAVIA · #6 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 02:13 AM

no problem-- had the pic in a folder on my desktop. --hope you find your pub-lum. --do advise on what the outcome is >!!!

Ricardo Singer · #7 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 02:24 AM

Again thank you.

By the way, I forgot to mention that as soon as I flip the switch, the fuse burns in about a 100th of a second so I don’t think the problem is a stuck fan.
I will work on it and then post the outcome.
Well thanks again and its time to go back and watch F1 China. 18 laps to go 

PANAVIA · #8 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 02:30 AM

OUCH---- that would be a direct short of power (at a good amperage) --to ground. I would disconnect the battery , and hook up a battery charger with a 10A ckt. breaker and see if you can trace it /wiggle wires if it stops.

-- but something is not-happy for sure.

---any recent work done somewhere that might have pinched something >? -->?

PANAVIA · #9 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 04:26 AM

ok, going to Tivo the rest of Smokey-and-the-Bandit. -- zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

Rick Parker · #10 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 09:59 AM

Use a continuity tester, self powered.

Bernica · #11 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 01:30 PM

I have CSX 4250, and that switch is to fire up the fuel pumps in the trunk which, in my case, supplement the mechanical pump on the motor.
All of your wires should have a number marking at each end. According to my diagrams, the fuel pump end is #97, and the switch end (under the dash) is #73. Check the numbering on your switch to verify.
I have all the wiring docs for my 4000 Series Shelby, which came with the car. They are scanned into a PDF (about 10 pages) and I'm not sure how to dump the whole thing here on this site. Send me a PM and I will email it to you. If I could figure out how to get it on this site, I would. I'm sure many folks can make use of it.

Power Surge · #12 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 04:45 PM

We really need to know what VIN your car is. There is no blanket statement for wiring and switch placement on 4000 cars, as there are several versions of wiring depending on it's production timeline.

twobjshelbys · #13 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernica

I have CSX 4250, and that switch is to fire up the fuel pumps in the trunk which, in my case, supplement the mechanical pump on the motor.
All of your wires should have a number marking at each end. According to my diagrams, the fuel pump end is #97, and the switch end (under the dash) is #73. Check the numbering on your switch to verify.
I have all the wiring docs for my 4000 Series Shelby, which came with the car. They are scanned into a PDF (about 10 pages) and I'm not sure how to dump the whole thing here on this site. Send me a PM and I will email it to you. If I could figure out how to get it on this site, I would. I'm sure many folks can make use of it.

That switch on mine is fuel pump too.

Bernica · #14 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 05:30 PM

You may have a bad fuel pump or a bad ground to one. BTW, the right switch is supposed to be for the differential cooler pump, if you have one...

Michael C Henry · #15 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 05:56 PM

If you figure what that switch is operating check if you have an fuse rated for the amount of curent excepected to be needed. Second, check that the connections to the apparatus being operated. Some fans and fuel pumps have a ground wire that is a added absolute ground but can operate by using the ground provided through its metal housing. If the wirng were reversed then you may have the hot positive wire connected to a ground which would burn the fuse..
I was working on an old peice of equipment and removed all the gauges and switches from the dash(all old small dirty stif black wires) the wires were all dirty very small numbers and stiff. The stiff asspect worked for me most of the time. I missed a pair out of three and a light and had one hot wire hooked directly to the ground on an electric tachometer. I tried to temporaryily use a circuit breaker in place of the fuse but had problems so I ended up disconnecting the wire from the back of the fuse pannel that that fuse supplied and mounted another fuse.
I then temporarily connected my 12v 24v test light in series between the out of the fuse and the wire it had been connected to. Man was my test light bright but it acted as a current limiter. It wouldn't let anymore current through than the filliment in the bulb would use. With the test light leaned aganist the windsheild I started inside with the gauges and switches which had indivdual wires instead of multiwire plugs. As I unplugged the tachometer, the test light dimmed a bit and a low air preasure warning buzzer that hadn't been heard from in a while started making some noise. So reexamined the lay of the old stif wires. I swapped a couple of wires and everything was then correct .
Another tool that woul be a great addition to your tool set . "Power Probe " comes as a kit in a blow molded box, alligator clips, cigerett power plugin, a good lehgth of coard, and an extension cord . It has it's own lights to work in limited light ares . It makes different noises and had different light for completed circuits and dead shorts . It can be used to directly energize electrical units and has a built in circuit breaker.

Ricardo Singer · #16 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 10:23 PM

Thank you Mike, Bernica, twobjshelbys's, Power Surge and all for the follow up and support.

I have scheduled Wednesday evening to work on this until the sun comes up if needed.

Will have the test kit, extension, set of many fuses, and a couple of beers by my side
To help me cope.

My car is CSX 4896

I will let you all know the outcome.

PANAVIA · #17 (**permalink**) 04-19-2009, 11:48 PM

so it sounds like we need a wiring diagram. -- with numbers and color codes.

I know all CSX cars are not created equally (sorry bad pun) but do we have an idea of the CSX 4000 production breaks like we do on the SPF cars >?

--Steve

Power Surge · #18 (**permalink**) 04-20-2009, 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PANAVIA

so it sounds like we need a wiring diagram. -- with numbers and color codes.

I know all CSX cars are not created equally (sorry bad pun) but do we have an idea of the CSX 4000 production breaks like we do on the SPF cars >?

--Steve

The 4700 series cars (4750 and up) have different wiring than than earlier cars, as they use modern relays and such. Unfortunately, I only have a wiring schematic for the older cars like mine.