Questions on buiding a 427 Street Cobra replica

[DanEC]

This looks like the place to find some biased advice. I've been wanting to build a 427 Street Car replica for many, many years and it looks like this may finally be the year. I had been sold on a Hurricane street model kit about a year ago and was planning to order it this year - until they decided to sell and the crooks bought it out and put them in the trash. Since then I've primarily focused on three manufacturers, but not having seen many (if any in some cases) of their completed cars here in Little Rock, I'm unclear on some of their details and quality. Of course price is always an issue but it's difficult to look at overall cost because some offer a street car kit to begin with and one doesn't and it would have to be modified. Here are some of the impressions I've developed of the three options I've been looking at. I would appreciate any comments reinforcing them or correcting them.

1. FFR
Pro - lower entry price on kit with IRS. Excellent forum support. Lot of assembly work (which I want to do myself). Ford IRS rear suspension pieces. They offer sales or discounts on pricing.

Con - appears difficult to add undercar exhaust with IRS. No street car model available - have to find hood, glove box, etc. Not sure rocker panels extend down far enough. Perky butt and trunk lid have to somehow go. Have to roll cockpit edges. Have to add foot well vents. Rougher body (unless greatly improved recently). Checkered reputation mostly due to earlier donar car kits. Work and additional parts to build a street car will run the price of the build up.

2. Unique
Pro - They offer a street car body kit. Appraently they have a very accurate, nice quality body. They have an undercar exhaust system. IRS is the only way they build them. Long established company with loyal customer base. They offer sales or discounts on pricing. Very good reputation.

Con - Higher price. Unsure about how acccurate to original their dash and interior is. I've only seen a few pictures of their interiors and it looks like the steering column is a little high. Dash area looks to have rolled type edge but door tops appear to have an extended fiberglass return in few pictures I've found. I read in a magazine that you sit a little high in them and I'm 6-2 with a long torso. They advertise 3-3/8 tach and speedo gages which are small - just not sure the details of their dash are all that original appearing. Front suspension uses a cradel instead of X-braced framing and tthe main frame rails are 2x4 - depending on the engineering I don't know if this is of any significance. Frame and body are completely separate. Framework for windshield, dash and doors is all within the body. Have to add footwell vents.

ERA
Pro - They offer a street car version with undercar exhaust, original appearing dash, body, etc. Built around IRS from the start. Plus they have a standard vent system. Comparably equipped to a Unique kit (limited slip, glove box dash, heater, etc) they appear to have a very slight price advantage - but it's hard to be sure. (They offer a lot of expensive aluminum panel options that I'm unsure as to how necessary they are) Frame directly supprorts dash, windshield, and doors. Body bonded to frame which I'm sure makes for a more solid feeling car. They use 3/4 inch frame rails and a X-braced front suspension mount. Very good reputation. Known for visual authenticity.

Con - The body is bonded to the frame. I was planning to drive the car in gel coat or primer for awhile to sort it out and then pull the body later and paint it. Furthest away and probably the highest shipping cost. I haven't heard of there having any sales or discounts - so they may be the most expensive kit of the three.

Thanks

DanC

[mickmate]

Hi Dan, there are a few of us guys here that are really passionate about the street cars. There are street versions of at least an FFR and ERA we've seen regularly on here. Larry LMH and Frank 428street are both good resources. Any of the issues you have observed can be corrected or have the parts customised or replaced. Having said that decide based on what you want mechanically, assembly wise, support etc and go from there. Ask specific questions on the build when you're into it and we'll steer you in the right direction. As an example I had an FFR body here that the trunk can move up and down a foot and a half. The panels that support the back of the body can easily be trimmed down to unperk it. Dash issues can be corrected with a replacement or a blank that you lay out yourself. Readily available parts for much of it. Go for it!

[1985 CCX]

Dan

Talk to folks who own those cars from ERA, FFR and UM. If you are like me trying to replicate the car as they were in the 60's none of the choices are separated by price at the end of the day. FFR is easier to get started however a choice IRS FFR will cost as much as an ERA if all the correct details are added later as that is where the cost is.

No slight here: (as this statement can be used with any other car)
A base full donar FFR will cost less than and ERA, SPF or UM for sure.
A FFR with IRS, pin drive, Smiths, 427SO, correct seats, OEM roll bar, oil cooler, cockpit vents, Wilton carpets, Lucas Lighting and other details will still cost a pile of dough.

There are no deals in this hobby. Specialty parts and authentic parts cost $$$$$.

If you pick a car from ERA, FFR, UM, KMS, SAI, SPF or a couple others you will be all set. Just remember it is the details that cost the $$$ some companies charge more out of the gate but they usually offer more of those costly details up front than do others.

[PaulProe]

Dan,
Are you looking for the "build experience" or owning a street car? The original Hurricane street car can be purchased. Let me know and I can put you in touch with the owner

It is red with a big block FE. As I recall, it also has a TKO 5speed and an IRS.

Paul
HM-Cobra.org

[DanEC]

Paul - I'm looking for the build experience. Maybe not 3 or 4 years of it (I'm 58 years old). I get bored with finished or new cars. I need something to work on and tinker with when I retire later this year.

1985 CCX - I understand this is an expensive endevor from the get go, but price always is a factor (unless your part of the Walmart clan or something). I suspect buying the kit car that is closest to what I'm looking for is the bargin in the long run if on a lesser expensive kit I would have to throw away and replace half the parts to get the period appearance,features and solid driving car I want.

Thanks

Dan

[strictlypersonl]

ERA
Pro - They offer a street car version with undercar exhaust, original appearing dash, body, etc. Built around IRS from the start. Plus they have a standard vent system. Comparably equipped to a Unique kit (limited slip, glove box dash, heater, etc) they appear to have a very slight price advantage - but it's hard to be sure. (They offer a lot of expensive aluminum panel options that I'm unsure as to how necessary they are)

All our previously optional aluminum is standard now.

Con - The body is bonded to the frame. I was planning to drive the car in gel coat or primer for awhile to sort it out and then pull the body later and paint it. Furthest away and probably the highest shipping cost. I haven't heard of there having any sales or discounts - so they may be the most expensive kit of the three.

We paint the body after mounting on the chassis. It can be done otherwise, but it's the only way to guarantee panel edge matching. Be aware that our standard kit is the Comp version. The Street Version will have some additional costs.

[CHRIS DAMSCH]

Check out this thread, not sure if it helps at all.

This is Juan's third car I believe.

Turned out nice.
SPO 2891 Finally Home

[cal.cheesehead]

Dan, I'm in month 2 building my unique. I went through the same process you are two years ago. Unique has their own forum page. I get a lot of help and ideas through their site. Just took my body to the painter yesterday. He was very ipressed with their quality. I liked installing the engine/trans with the body off. It was what turned me off to ERA. However I have seen a couple ERA's. They are beautiful. Good luck. Do lot's of homework and have a ball. I am.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by cal.cheesehead

Dan, I'm in month 2 building my unique. I went through the same process you are two years ago. Unique has their own forum page. I get a lot of help and ideas through their site. Just took my body to the painter yesterday. He was very ipressed with their quality. I liked installing the engine/trans with the body off. It was what turned me off to ERA. However I have seen a couple ERA's. They are beautiful. Good luck. Do lot's of homework and have a ball. I am.

I've checked out Unique's forum and posted a couple questions there. Unfortunately if there is a part of it for photo galleries of their cars I've not located it. Biggest two concerns I have with Unique is how original the interior & dash appear and if the seating is too high for my heigth. I agree with earlier posts that I can buy the correct gages and trim the dash out myself with original switches, etc. The couple photo's of Unique interiors I've seen seem to show them having a wide transmission tunnel. It may just appear that way because they seam their carpet at the corners of the trans tunnel instead of molding it over in one piece. Again, nothing that is hard to change - I just want to hold down the number of changes I have to make which will obviously start the price going up. I do think Unique has a nice car or I wouldn't be considering one.

Thanks

[elric]

You won't be disappointed with the ERA. Great company to work with.

[LMH]

Hey Dan
Of your choices, my opinion would be ERA. High quality and dead-on accurate visually.
All of us HM owners are really bummed about what has transpired with Hurricane. We all hope it willl rise from the ashes with a new owner but if/until that happens, I'd say go with ERA.
Unless.... Hey Paul, do you know of any unfinished HM's that might be for sale?
Larry

[ztarum]

One thing to pay attention to is the subtle curve along the bottom of the body. On some replicas (SPF for sure, maybe other) the bottom body line is flat, which I think detracts from the look of the car.

Usually side pipes cover this part of the car, so accuracy doesn't usually matter as much. On the street version is will be there for everyone to see.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by ztarum

One thing to pay attention to is the subtle curve along the bottom of the body. On some replicas (SPF for sure, maybe other) the bottom body line is flat, which I think detracts from the look of the car.

Usually side pipes cover this part of the car, so accuracy doesn't usually matter as much. On the street version is will be there for everyone to see.

Your right. The Hurricane Street Cobra exhibited that trait. However I was hoping they would refine that detail (as they had several others) by the time I got serious about ordering one. But - well, everyone knows what happened to them.

DanC

[ZOERA-SC7XX]

The bonded body of the ERA is absolutely the best way for a fiberglass car to be constructed. No squeaks, rattles or vibrations of any kind...maybe the tightest Cobra on the planet. Paint it later if you want, but it's the most accurate looking street car (or S/C) available anywhere. Rent a U-Haul with a center ramp and bring it home yourself. While building an ERA is not cheap, you will actually save money with a correct iron 428 FE. Most ERA's are factory built, so building the car yourself will save more than you might realize. Good luck.

[FrankJohnson69]

I'd be happy to help where I can... Mine is an ERA and quite frankly I'm pretty partial to it. Frank Z. has nailed the original car down dead nuts on. Mine is a little over the top in some areas.

All the best,
Frank

[HI Cobra]

Frank - very nice!

[LMH]

Now if someone would just come with a set of replica Sunburst wheels, the street car version would be even better.
Larry

[PANAVIA]

what about a SPF >? --

Look Mom...no scoops , no hoops.

[Maricopa]

Certainly things I would do differently if I'd had more scratch (in fact if I'd had enough money I'd have gone with ERA or Kirkham for the more authentic body and details) but here's what 27K and some hard work gets you in a streeterized FFR.

[JBCOBRA]