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08-05-2009, 05:01 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,021
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Not Ranked
The easy way to determine the major problem is to compare the temperature along the hot (temperature) wire. If the temperature is relatively even along the length, there is a high current draw. If the wire is hot only in a small section, then the problem is in a connection or (not likely) a partially broken wire.
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08-05-2009, 04:31 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Simple fix for problem
Fastz06 Fast here is a easy fix for your hot wire problem, I am going with the fact that you have good grounds on the motor and chassic. 2 from the motor to the chassic, 2 from the battery ground to the frame and motor if the the battery is under the hood. Next you need to run a RED #4 gauage wire from the pos+ of the ALT out put to the battery. This will stop the over load of the amp meter and cut out the heavy draw. The amp meter will still work for any amps being used through this power feed. The battery is getting a direct recharge through the #4 wire. This will save the meter. The other idea is to replace the amp meter with a volt meter. You will still have to do some wiring for this to work. A voltmeter makes more sense than and AMP meter but is not orginial to a cobra. The other problem is how much ampage is being run through the meter. 30-40 amps is OK, more than this, is not the best way. I am going from a 70A alt to a 130 amp (3G) setup. I am going to a voltage gauge also. At Idle what does your amp gauge read about? with the basic electrical in a cobra, lights,3 fans, blower motor, and an MSD setup you are at the limit of the charging system at 55-60 amps. MSD system with HV coil uses more than 6 amps at 6,000 rpms, more like 12-15 amps. Rick
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08-06-2009, 10:48 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary CCX33344 with original bore 427 SO.
Posts: 83
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Not Ranked
Thanks
Thanks for all the replies.....
I finally spent some time diagnosing last night and found:
The wire only heats up with the engine running
The heat is uniform along the wire
The charging connection to the alternator was questionable..I replaced the ring terminanal and soldered the connection
Alternator checked out ok....61 amp output
I will reinstall alternator tonight and install new voltage regulator
I will report what I find.
Thinking of installing higher gage wire as a precaution.
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08-06-2009, 12:23 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
Posts: 3,405
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Not Ranked
What voltage was the regulator putting out?
__________________
Wiring Diagrams: SPF MKII, MKIII, GT40, CSX7000, CSX8000, Corvette Grand Sport, and Shelby Sebring, Bondurant & Cinema Tribute Cars.
Owner’s Manuals: SPF MKII, CSX7000, CSX8000, Sebring, Bondurant, Cinema Tribute Cars $ GT40’s..
Large, easy to read and trace schematics with part numbers, wire colors, wire gauge, fuses, and electrical upgrade information. Trouble-shooting and replacement part numbers for those roadside repair adventures.
SPFWiringDiagrams@Comcast.net
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08-08-2009, 07:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary CCX33344 with original bore 427 SO.
Posts: 83
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Not Ranked
Problem fixed
After reinstalling the alternator and jumping out the ammeter with no effect, I found a melted inline splice under the dash that must have loosened up. It was in the process of melting itself to a bunch of other wires.
I replaced the wire and all is good..I will add a fusible link today.
Sure am glad I found it when I did.
Also glad I had all of you for help...thanks so much
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08-10-2009, 11:19 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lavon,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 3,008
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Not Ranked
Glad you found it. Were the wires melted through?
__________________
Why do they call it "Common Sense" when it is so rare?
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