Clutch stop ??????

[wicked fast]

Hey.

Is anyone running a stop on their clutch pedal ??

I had my master cylinder go out after 2000 miles.
Would build a slight pressure, then go to the floor
with the clutch not working.

Replaced it last night and I now have a properly
operating clutch.

Running a Wilwood remote master cylinder with a
CNC pull slave cylinder and a three finger clutch
cover.

Thanks in advance,
BC

[snakebittexan]

Funny you should ask. I have a Backdraft with the third clutch slave cylender in thirty days going in this week. No clutch stop is in the back of mind as being an issue. Will back off on how far I depress it and see if my problem goes away--not sure--just a thought.

[strictlypersonl]

There's no inherent reason that more stroke than necessary will "break" a master cylinder unless there's corrosion past the normal stroke. Most masters are built to allow bottoming out without damage.

Look for misalignment of the rod going into the cylinder (which will wear the side of the bore) or water or other contamination in the fluid. Always use DOT type 3 or 4 fluid in the system. I like Castrol GT LMA fluid for the best compatibility.

[Double Venom]

Well..... ,
Wildwood Tech. Dept. and Tiltons tech Dept. both state as little as 3/16"s in to far will blow the seals on either one of the above mentioned cylinders. I have an adjustable stop on all manuals, whether Cobra or Street Rod. When your clutch is new; just press the pedal in as far as it needs to be to shift/engage synchros easily, measure how far off the floor the pedal is and this is where your adjustable "STOP" should start.

As the clutch wears in/out just drop your adjusting rod a little. No reason 50,000 miles can't be be an easy range to get to before putting in a new M/C.

DV