looking to buy a cobra (fiberglass q)

[gottachopwood]

Hi all,

I wasn't planning on buying a cobra or doing a kit for a few more years but came across a 15 yr old Everett Morrison with a 351 Windsor for $20k and it got me thinking. The car was originally set up to race but never saw much time on the track or had any impacts that I'm aware of. I'm posting looking for your advice and help, so thanks in advance.

The good: The engine is solid, no leaks, good oil pressure, just over 8k miles, IRS and very detailed build book with each part listed.

The bad: The fiberglass shell & paint isn't in the best of shape.

My questions for all of you is the following.

1) The fiberglass has lots spidercracks but what mostly worries me is the full crack under the front wheel wells that follows the bends in the shell. (Sorry hard to explain) but there is a full crack under each wheel well in an "L" shape the tracks just a few cm inside the wheel well ...originating from the center of the car to the edge of the wheel well and then it follows up the well. What i'm concerned about is that this crack will continue up the wheel well to the point it is visable or causing major issues. To give you an idea on the extent of the cracks, each leg of the "L" is about 8-10 inches. I need to talk to a fiberglass repair expert, but I'm not sure if this is common or can be easily repaired. I'm a little concerned he let the crack progress to this extent, unless i'm just over reacting. For a 15yr old car, is it common to expect a lot of spidercracking or is this a sign of too much stress on the shell?

I'm guessing it's going to cost me about $10k to fix the fiberglass and get a decent pain job on it, but then I'm very ignorant in fiberglass repair.

2) The car has manual brakes (first time I ever one with them). I don't mind getting on the brakes to stop, but is this common or do most people use power brakes? I'm assuming manual is typical for racing.


BTW, I plan on using the car for enjoyment and am not concerning with winning awards at shows or serious racing.

Thanks again, cheers!
Steve

[Rickd]

There are so many real nice cars available that are almost new, very well done, and very well priced that I would NEVER spend $20K on something that needed another $10K in work to make right - unless it were a real jewel - a Kirkham or an ERA or some such car. But a 15 year old EM in rough shape - check out Cobra Country for a sampling of what's available. Most cobras have standard manual brakes. Light enough that they don't need power brakes.

[gottachopwood]

Yea I'm starting to get that feeling too. I just never thought I'd see a cobra for $20k, but I'm seeing more and more as of late. My estimate of 10k may be high, as I have no idea how much fiber repair costs.

Has anyone with a fiberglass shell seen lots of spider cracking or any other full cracks in their frame?

[Rickd]

There was a guy who is just finishing a brand new B&B cobra - minus trans, engine, and motor - (a turnkey minus) for $26,000. That is a brand new car - and you could work out an installation with Keith Craft for a package - 302 motor (their base 306 with approx 300 hp) and trans and you would be in the mid 30's for 100% new, and very well crafted.

[Rickd]

Another comment - spider cracking of the glass. Not a good sign. My first cobra was a Unique that I bought used - I had it for a couple of years - and the glass work was fantastic. The Weavers - who build Uniques - have been racing a car they built in 1984 - racing the heck out of it - no starring no spider cracks nothing. Same with ERA. Again, in this economy there are too many cars out there in EXCELLENT condition that you can negotiate when you are talking $30,00 - $34,000, that you shouldn't be looking at a questionable project. That is a lot of money!!! You should be able to get a very nice car for that. And think about resale - look at Cobra Country and you see the cars that are selling (marked sold). Good quality cars. You might also take a different approach to see who responds. "I have a $budget of $30,000 - who has a nice cobra they would sell for that amount". You NEVER KNOW who has a great car. I know a guy who built a beautiful ERA FIA car - great reproduction 289 motor etc. Built it in 2000, and sold it at auction in Florida in 2006 - for $31,000, and the car had 150 miles on it!!!! I would have paid him $10,000 more for the car - but he didn't know about Cobra Country or how to sell it. He had built 5 - 6 cobras previously (a few Uniques and a few ERA's), and was a fabulous mechanic. Did all the work himself. Got his $$ out, with no value on his time.

[rustyBob]

Shop around there are to many deals to be had out there in this economy, if that was a 15 year old car for 10 grand the maybe you might want to take a chance on it but there are some great deals out there..........keep looking and set a budget and stick to it.

[gottachopwood]

Thanks for re-enforcing my gut feeling on this.

Thinking about it all day at work I've decide to pass on it, but I've also decided that I'll definitely be buying one, instead of maybe buying one.

I'm going to have to do a lot more reading and decide between buying used (to save some cash) or a turn key/build your own.

Thanks for letting me know about the wear on the fiber. I'll be reading a lot of old posts here I think, but if there's a good source for info out there, please let me know. Cheers guys!

[Dusty Rhodes]

I'll sell you my B&Bfor $25000, and you can paint it what color you want body is ready for paint.click on my camera icon and see the pics. 4000 miles and no bugs at all.

[Bryan Anderson]

I have a brand new B&B Indigo blue with white stripes just finished all you need to add is the engine and Trans 26,995 call me at 417 472-3547

[mickmate]

I would guess the cracking you were looking at is from it being stressed as you said from being not properly supported or mounted. Worse it may have had an impact that has been poorly repaired.

[lnfletcher]

Dusty, you're already to sell before getting finished!

[gottachopwood]

Wow everyone wants to sell their car, ha ha.

I may in be contact with some of you, I need to do a little more reading first (I tend to over research everything I buy)

Cheers

[Excaliber]

You could spend another $10K on the EM, terrific paint, body repair, etc. And STILL end up with spider issues shortly thereafter. One of these that makes ERA's so good is how the body is attached to the frame. Very little stress on the body itself. Spidering, cracking, virtually uhheard of even with the old ERA's. Older replica's that STILL look, drive, sound and feel great are your best indicator of the manufacture.

What I DO like about the EM. It's got 8,000 miles on it! When buying used I WANT a car with some miles on it, that tell's me a lot of "issues" have been worked out all ready. I DON'T want a used car with a mere 500 to 1500 miles on it, that car has not been driven enough to really sort it out. Might as well buy new and take your chances unless your saving a ton on the used one. A new Cobra, no matter who built it, IS going to have some issues.

[olddog]

I am assuming that you are a little new to the Cobra world, and might not have picked up on this. Brian Anderson is one of the owners of B&B and he just offered you a new turn key minus. I talked to him at the Pen. Kit Car show a few years back. He was quite nice to me and gave me an education on body work.

For the record I do not own a B&B, but they were on my short list. I ended up bying a used car.

As for the cracking, fiberglass is not that hard to work with. However something is flexing too much, and fixing the glass would be the least of the problems, in my opinion. Asking $20K for a car in that shape speaks volumes to me. I would run away as fast as I could. However if the mood struck, I might offer $5K, if I thought the drive train was worth it. I don't consider the offer any more out of line than the asking price.

[Bonos]

Steve, In my opinion20k is avery high price for a 15 year old cobra in that shape. Fiberglass repair can be done by yourself because major repair is inside wheel wells spyder cracking is probably from being painted 15 years ago with laquer paint. the cracks you describe can be stopped by drilling a 1/8 inch hole on each end of crack
Offer a low ball price and then if he doesn't accept you can negoiate up from your starting price.
BONOS