Your Cobra on the track???

RACER X #99 · #1 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 09:38 AM

Just bringing this subject up over here where the posters are more track friendly.

Are you afraid of scratching you pride and joy Cobra on the track? simple. stay home.

Do you want to give open track a try? The guys that do it are here and can answer most questions.

Do you want to compete in SCCA club racing? Go to the SCCA web site.

Guys here will give you the straight talk with no BS.No whining no waxing just open track on the track.

We don't care what brand, what moter, what color, not interested in width of stripes, brand of street tires or where to mount speakers.

You got a question about open track ask the guys that do open track. Lots of them here.

Please no stupid cooking comments, (WAFAH)
Thank you,
Cranky

John McMahon · #2 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 10:13 AM

Can I eat my BBQ while driving on the track?

Can I cut a big enough fart to start a Club?

What about waving me privies in yer Auntie's face?

How do I bump steer????

Can I drive at the Glen with my eyes closed?

Can I run on the old race course through town at Watkins Glen? They do it in Ohio.

Just funnin'!

With that said, I truly enjoy what we do. I know that we have a growing group of about 25 to 30 guys that are becoming more and more interested in going 'pretend racing'. I know I can rely on any one of them to help me out in a clinch.

Always looking forward to the next event. Keep up the good work you old coot.

mrmustang · #3 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 04:33 PM

Why is it when going down the front straight at Pocono my transmission keeps grinding when I put it in to "R"...Isn't "R" set to make the car go "really fast"....I hear "R" is for "race".......

Bill S.

RACER X #99 · #4 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 04:51 PM

mrmustang,
You are not pulling on the lever hard enough. Try pulling harder, if it won't go force it, if it breaks it needed replacement anyway.
Hope this helps,

Advisor Cranky

a427sc · #5 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 06:49 PM

JM In answer to your questions;

1. yes
2. yes
3. yes, or any other female you can find
4. Ask Jimmy Spencer.
5. Yes, I do every night. And sometimes when I have to follow someone who doesnt know where their going.
6. yes, in fact highly recommended. Kind of puts perspective on who's a real driver, them or us.

I need to get to the Glen REAL BAD about now.

McFEZ

mrmustang · #6 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 07:16 PM

I pulled it so hard that it broke off. Must be faulty, perhaps I'll have better luck with the next one. Well, back to the street corner for me:

Bill S.

Quote:

Originally posted by RACER X #99
mrmustang,
You are not pulling on the lever hard enough. Try pulling harder, if it won't go force it, if it breaks it needed replacement anyway.
Hope this helps,

Advisor Cranky

Jamo · #7 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 07:16 PM

OK--REAL question...

What tires are you guys running back there? I tend to us Hoosier TDs for both autocross and open track just as an all-round tire that's usable for both. I know I'm giving up something using them at the track, but they're legal for autocross.

a427sc · #8 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 07:33 PM

Street TD's and Vintage versions (for larger sizes) are cheap and popular. But check out Roger Kraus for un-used Winston West slicks, cheap also. Generally a hard compound, but they got that great lettering on the side, and besides, they're SLICKS.

Personally, I prefer Atlas Plycrons, and Polyglass/Wide Ovals.

McFEZ

Jamo · #9 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 07:43 PM

McFez
I know--I could get used slicks being used on our short tracks around (Modifieds use damn near the same size), but DOT stamp is needed for SCCA autocross. I'm a bit too cheap to buy a third set of wheels.

But does anyone in the group run the TDs? I'm wondering what pressures they're running. Also--just to wear out the tires faster, I tend to run about a degree of tow-out on short. curvy tracks like Buttonwillow, straight up at Willow Springs--thoughts?

John McMahon · #10 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 07:54 PM

Jamo,

Hoosier R3S03, a sticky track radial.

Jamo · #11 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 08:02 PM

JM

I'll check them out--Cobra sizes? DOT? I was led to believe TD was the only thing in 15s in big sizes...

John McMahon · #12 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 09:08 PM

amo,

Not sure what sizes are available, check tirerack.com.
I do not believe they are DOT approved.

I am running P255ZR16 and they cost about $205 each including heat cycling.

Jamo · #13 (**permalink**) 08-06-2002, 09:37 PM

It's what I thought (just didn't know their numerical designation)--those are their DOT competition tires--they have autocross and road race treads/compounds, but only go up to 245s in 15s. Nope--I think the TDs are it as far as DOTs from Hoosier that fit 15s.

Hey--they work fine so long as I keep autocrossing in the schedule. If I ever just stick with open track--then I'll go slicks.

If I can't keep it cheap, it ain't no fun. Did a big repair job this last weekend--$2.37 for a new battery holdown bolt--broke one at the drag strip in Ohio.

RACER X #99 · #14 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 05:02 AM

Jamo,
According to Roger Krause Racing the Hoosier radials are DOT rated come in 245 and 275 X 15 at about $183 and $206 each.
I know these are not real wide like the show guys like but we all know if they are sticky they don't have to be real wide.

Thanks for a serious question,

RD

BTW the crankmobile use bias ply Goodyear slicks, this is a short track tire that is used everywhere. $98 fronts $108 rears(new)

klayfish · #15 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 05:18 AM

Geez, my finchmobile runs on the tires I got it with. Firestone Firehawk SZ 50 EPs. According to The Tire Rack, they are about $210 a piece, and they're just STREET tires. I'm chewing them up. They're pretty good for a pure street tire. I've GOT to find a second set of cheap rims, like the Mustang turbines or something, so I can get another set of tires for racing. I was thinking about the Kuhmo Victoracers. Had them on my last autox car and was very happy with them.

Steve

a427sc · #16 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 05:37 AM

Big J

I have run the TD's, and their non-DOT cousins Vintage tires for years. The vintage are sized like a race tire (25.5x10x15 etc.) Why the difference in DOT rating, I don't know. Same compounds, same tread look, nobody ever seems to notice or care.

I have found that 28-30# hot works pretty well for me. Adjust as the car requires for different track temps etc. Even 1/2 # difference will make a noticeable change. I like to get about 1/16" toe out, takes the "slack" out, tightening response at turn-in. With a low caster set-up, and middleing camber, it gets a little jumpy on grooved pavement, but runs like an arrow at speed.

FEZ

Ain't no large 15" radials available that work.

John McMahon · #17 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 06:50 AM

Jamo,

In 15s they only carry 205 thru 245s.

Write up on the R3S03:

The Hoosier R3S03 and A3S03 radials are Hoosier's latest generation of DOT legal competition tires. The R3S03 (Racing) tire features a tread compound suitable for track and road racing applications, while the A3S03 (Autocross) tire features a tread compound tuned for autocross competition. The Hoosier R3S03 and A3S03 are the lightest of the DOT legal competition tires.

All Hoosier Sports Car DOT radials have passed DOT requirements but have a special tread compound to facilitate racing. Due to this special compound, these tires are not suitable for highway use as the expected miles of wear of these tires is greatly reduced.

The R3S03 and A3S03 tires feature an asymmetric tread design (which looks directional, but isn't) and can be used on either side of the car. They are molded with a tread depth of just 4/32" so they will not require shaving for competition, however they will benefit from heat cycling before competition to enhance wear and provide more consistent performance.

The R3S03 and A3S03 have a symmetric internal construction that features nylon cord radial carcass plies reinforced by two fiberglass belts and a circumferential nylon cap ply under the tread. While the R3S03 and A3S03 have an inflated shape with rounded shoulders to better compliment camber challenged cars, they still benefit from vehicle alignments that offer significant negative camber. Be sure to read Hoosier Tire Care Tips for advice on the use of these tires.

Hoosier R3S03 and A3S03 tires feature black sidewall styling with subtle black letters. They are Z-speed rated and available in 60-, 55-, 50-, 45-, 40, 35- and 30-series sizes for 13" to 18" wheel diameters

Jamo · #18 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 05:34 PM

Cranky, JM

I'll call Krause, but the info I got from Hoosier West is the same as what JM and I both got from the Tire Rack site. Cranky--I don't go for wide--I'm wide enough! My TDs are 245/265.

Fez
That's about the pressure I run on the track with the TDs--I go up to as much as 34 up front for autocrosses, but that's a whole different matter.

Thank you gentlemen...

a427sc · #19 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 07:52 PM

Jamo

Do you run the 245x60 or x45? 45's are shorter (lower car with out changing ride height in springs and alignment-a good thing for on track) and 1/2" wider. There are several 10" rears, allows an adjustment in gear ratio with the different diameters. Check out the Hoosiertire sitedirect. I have played with tire sizes and was suprised at the difference in handling, with minimal change to the car. Of course, I got an FE, and we all know it needs as much help as it can get.

Jamo · #20 (**permalink**) 08-07-2002, 09:03 PM

I have to run 245X60s up front--my car already sits very low--any lower and I'll be scraping something at track speeds--Willow Springs has alot of elevation changes and some dipping. Not to bore you, but with the engine setback, the engine is set pretty low in the frame for clearance--makes for great handling, but the trade-off is ground clearance--and that's with a racing pan. The bellhousing is pretty well flattened out from indiscretions.