Looking for experience from ERA drivers

[Dave Crace]

Guys,
I open tracked my car for the first time at Roebling Road in July. I put the Goodyear slicks on my torque thrust D's and the car handled great. I know now that I need to upgrade my brakes. Here's my dilemma; ERA has upgrade front Wildwood calipers either 12.18 inch or 12.8. With the 12.18, I can still use 15" wheels by PSE, With the 12.8, I wil have to go with 17" tires and wheels. Soes anyone have experience with these brakes? This is really going to cost me because I will probably have to change over to pin drives, so I want to get it right the first time.

Thanks,
DC

[RACER X #99]

Dave,
I have 12.19 fronts on my Contemporary as does Don Durner on his ERA BB racer and so does Joe Rodomista on his ERA FIA racer. I don't think you need to go any bigger. Just remember to size you master cylinder/ cylinders properly and you will have a nice system.

Talk to Bob Putnam at ERA I beleive he knows all about ERA systems.

Cranky

[a427sc]

Dave

The 12.19's will be plenty. I assume you are buying the complete hub/rotor assembly, and caliper mount to replace the GM setup that comes standard. Request a bolt on wheel hub, or specs on modifying your GM rotor/hub. This keeps the same wheel bolt pattern and backspacing. The only area of contention will be the caliper mounting as it relates to the inner shape of your wheel. I run a light weight steel circle track wheel with race tires. Lots of cooling and more space inside than the cast/forged wheels. You can move the caliper in (decrease diameter) a little and play with rotor mount spacing/caliper mounting to get enough room for a pretty big caliper. This allows you to keep the D's for the street, and use a cheap wheel set for the track. Don't forget the air cooling ducts, steel flex lines, Racing brake fluid such as Wilwood 550 (bleed often too), and race pads such as Performance Friction, Hawk or Porterfield. I find the PFC's work great, and don't wear the rotor like some others do. What about the rears?

McFEZ

[Dave Crace]

Cranky,
I didn't think I would have to change out the master cylinders too. I'll check with Bob Putnam on that.

McFez,
I plan on getting a whole assembly, rotors, calipers, etc. According to ERA, I will not be able to use the Torque Thrust D's. Not sure what you mean about moving the caliper to make it fit? SS Flex lines, thats something else I didn't think about. The best solution for the rears is outboard brakes (lots of $$$) unless I can convince ERA to swap out my inboard system. Peter P said to try just the fronts first. What are your race wheels, are they bolt ons?

Anyway, looks like the 12.18's or 12.19's wll work, so thats a start. My goal is to make this thing stop like my old 911SC

Thanks,
DC

[a427sc]

Dave,

The rotor can be moved slightly toward the spindle (maybe 1/8-3/16" with the spacer/hub machining. This allows the caliper to move away from the wheel spokes. There is also a small amount of movement available to locate the caliper "in" or closer to the spindle. You can even machine the rotor to a smaller diameter to allow the caliper to mount further in for clearance on the D's. This doesn't get a lot of room, but could be the difference between fitting and not. Also check dimentions on the different brand calipers available, and models within the same brand, such as cast vs billet, 4 or 6 piston. It all depends on where you need the extra space. I use a steel lightweight wheel from oval track cars that have the correct back spacing I need and the same 4 3/4 bolt dia mount. Several of the specialty companies will make wheels to your dimentions.

As to the rears. ERA has a big rotor kit for inboards. I used a 10.5 kit from Concours West (before ERA offered their version). With good pads and fluid, and some funky air venting, they were sufficient. I would also recommend in-cockpit adjustable brake bias. This will allow a finer tuning for track conditions and different pad configurations.

Good luck

McFEZ