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10-27-2003, 12:43 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Surprise,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: 2004 Kirkham 427 Roadster. New BBM Sideoiler Block, 484 cu. in. built by Valley Head & Racing Engines, Northridge CA. installed 3/20/2016
Posts: 63
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Not Ranked
Curt,
The term torque steer is usually associated with front drive autos. The sensation of the steering wheel feeling like it wants go it's own way when throttle is applied.
You say you have a 9" rear end and coil overs all around, Correct?
Check to make sure you rear axle is staying square with chassis thru out it's travel. Your panhard rod may need to adjusted if there is an adjustment, or relocated. It's like "bump steer" in a way. one way to check this to remove the shocks and springs, determine where the axle is located at ride height. If you for example, have 6" of travel ( 3" up and 3" down) jack up it starting from ride height or ZERO and move it 1" at a time and see what it's doing. let it down or droup from ride height and check that way too. I forgot to ask it over-steers more turning left or right equally?
Remove the wheels and tires and take flat piece of wood or aluminum and drill out a hole in the center big enough for your hub to go thru and transfrer your pin or lug pattern around the hub hole. From the center of the hub or ZERO measure up and down in 1" incriments and draw horrizontal line thru your marks for reference. Attach the plate to the axle where tire is supposed to be with what ever you hold your wheels on with (knock off or lug nuts). Get 2 dial indicator guages and attach them to a jack stand or what ever, that is tall enough to reach from the ground to the center or ZERO mark on your flat plate. If you run 15" wheels put each dial indicator 71/2" from the vertical center of the hub. If you run 16's put 8" from center etc. Zero them and run your test, checking the readings as you go. If you can get help use a sissor jack to move the axle, and one of you watch and take readings. If you have a rear sway bar disconect it too.
You need to remove the springs from the shocks and put the shocks back on to keep the axle in place. Set the shocks on soft if you can.
The rule of thumb is if the car pushes (Understeer) tighten up the rear to bring the rear around and follow the front.
If it over-steers, loosen or soften the rear, or tighten up the front. Note* it's better to tighten the front as you first choice, especially if the car feels good on other high speed parts of the track.
Do you have a front and rear sway bar? Are your shocks adjustable?
If you have all off the above I'm assuming the sway bars are not adjustable so
to help stop the oversteer---If you can, stiffen up your front shocks. If the rears are set on heavy, soften them up. Drop your tire pressures all around but run the Front pressures higher than the rear.
Put some more negative camber (2 or 3 degrees) and a little toe in in the front so it will stay pointed. If this helps but your still having problems, disconnect the rear sway bar completely, this should make a noticable difference. The car won't turn in as easy but it should help keep the rear end under you at exit. If none of it helps it could be your driving style, change your apex or use 2 perhaps, as has been mentioned already, or you could be in the wrong gear, or you might need to change you rear end ratio for this track. Is your diff. working properly? What kind of limited slip are you running?
You might need to invest in some different springs and shocks. Heavier springs in the front should help too.
I have no idea what suspension your running but these suggestions are what is normally done for this sort of thing.
Good Luck,
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Bruce
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