Cross Drilled Rotors

[coyled]

Rick and Ernie, the r4 pad makes lots of dust. I tried the r4s pad on the street. They did not work well at all. I don't know if I did not have them seated properly or if there was something wrong with the pads. I went with the r4s to have a street pad. I went back to a new set of r4 pads. They would stop better out of the box cold then the r4s, go figure. Scott

[a427sc]

A note to B in B:

Bike brakes are solid rotors, and don't crack like a vented unit. They also don't get the heat loads under anything but full race mode. Nothing you'll ever see on the street.

Ernie: GET VENTED ROTORS and forget fooling around with water or N2 cooling. Besides, unless you really know metalurgy, the cold blast from the N2 will probably just crack the rotors. Since you are doing autoX with no warm up, street pads are best here. On track, use the race pads from Porterfield like suggested, or PFC like I have, or any of the other suppliers to race teams. I never have seen any of the front runners using the Wilwoods.

Ain't it fun to beat up on them "Porch's" they really hate it.

McFEz

[petek]

Hey, for the record, I was *kidding* about the H2O and N2. Had I been serious I would have recomended O2 as it would be *much* more interesting spraying O2 onto a hot rotor!

[Excaliber]

...while you were kidding I was thinking about it!!!! Sure sign of a desperate man, LOL.

Ernie

[crillyiv]

Ernie,
I have used Willwood pads but have switched to Porterfield. No looking back. I am much happier with the Porterfield pads. BTW, I have Willwood Superlights in the front and Dynalights in the back. Solid rotors all 'round.

Try the R4S pads and see how they work. I have used them on the street and the track. I think they'd last ten laps no problem, but am no expert. They do work better when they get a little heat in them so be careful on your first stop out of the driveway.