Track Cobra?

[midwestcobra]

I have read a lot of the "which kit is better" threads and I have not seen this question asked anywhere.

I am looking to buy/build a cobra and plan on tracking it a good amount of the time.

What have any of you guys who do track the cars find is the best make for a track cobra? Obviously suspension has a lot to do with it, and set-up will take time on any car, but which cars are the better platforms from which to start with?

And lets just leave the BB vs SB out of the equation right now... it will be a a SB!

[Three Peaks]

It would be hard to beat the FFR Spec racer for track events. Designed primarily as a track car with full roll cage protection, 3 link suspension, and many other track features. Much time in development and improvements seems to have made a very solid race car. Check out all the race teams running them, as well as the Bob Bondurant school, among others.
It can be made legal to run on the street, but the doors won't operate.

[Sober1]

How about the Clasic Roadsters Cobra? Have you had the chance to check them out? They have a very rigid frame, great suspension options, and a 6" steel safety rail in the (functioning) doors. It has a Great fit and finish, and I have seen statistics of Great performance on and off the track! Call them and get some info, or check them out on the web at http://www.classicroadsters.com/

Check them out. They have been in business for 26 years and have stood through the test of time!

[Sober1]

How about the Clasic Roadsters Cobra? Have you had the chance to check them out? They have a very rigid frame, great suspension options, and a 6" steel safety rail in the (functioning) doors. It has a Great fit and finish, and I have seen statistics of Great performance on and off the track! Call them and get some info, or check them out on the web at http://www.classicroadsters.com/

Check them out. They have been in business for 26 years and have stood through the test of time!

[Richard Hudgins]

midwestcobra,

You might look at Backdraft. (They make a modified car for track use like the one at Run & Gun.)

Also, Kirkham. Give them a ring, they are working with a past SCCA National Champion on a track car.

Lastly, you might wish to look at Cutting Edge Replicas.

[coyled]

The cheap route and still a good route is the FFR spec racer for reasons stated above. More money and probably the best and most tunable suspension is the JBL. Richard is being humble. Good luck, Scott.

[John McMahon]

MidwestCobra,

If you're looking for a finsished Cobra race car, we may have a memebr here in NJ that may be willing to part with his, complete with a 600HP small block.

Email me if interested.

[midwestcobra]

Maybe I wasnt clear enough... I dont necessarily want a RACE Cobra... Spec Racer, or anything of that ilk. More along the lines of a quality kit which does perform well on the track as well.

The Classic Roadster looked good...

I am trying to get a 427 style bodied car, original looking appearance, but one that will perform well at the track... suspension wise I am open.

[Three Peaks]

MWC, the problem with wanting a road car that is also a race car is that you are going to be limited on either or both ends. A purely street car won't be acceptable to many race sanctioning bodies because it will lack many of the safety requirements (i.e.-sufficient safety cage, arm restraints, steel bellhousing, SFI rated dampener, flywheel, dated harnesses,among others). It probably also won't have an acceptable race type suspension set up- making it uncompetitive at best.
A pure track car won't have the required street adornments or DOT rated safety equipment. Also, will probably not have very good street manners.
I guess it all depends on how competitive you want to be on the track. Depending on what class or type of racing you plan on doing it can be done, but to be competitive at racing means you'll need to make some compromises on your street set up. IMHO, the FFR Spec racer meets this demand as well as any car I've seen. They can also be upgraded in HP to compete in the higher production classes. Then you can drive it home from the track and use it for a daily driver if you wish.
No, I don't own an FFR Spec Racer, but wish I could fit it into my budget. Have to finish my Cobra first (not FFR) and see where it goes from there.

Or course, the solution is to own 2 cars- one for track and one for the daily cruiser. Can I borrow one while you're driving the other one? - Bob

[niles]

street car and race car; sort of like a all terrain Cadillac! Ain't such a thing!
gn

[Siberian64]

Originally quoted by Richard Hudgins:

midwestcobra,
You might look at Backdraft. (They make a modified car for track use like the one at Run & Gun.)

Also, Kirkham. Give them a ring, they are working with a past SCCA National Champion on a track car.

Lastly, you might wish to look at Cutting Edge Replicas.

Why not JBL?

-Steve

[Jim Barnett]

I'm pretty convinced that my LAE is a track cobra. It seems to leave two BIG black rubber TRACKS everywhere I go) I even have two going up my driveway. I kinda use them like airport landing lights to line up my car when I drive it into the garage)

[Carroll DeWeese]

My car is very track able and street able. It is a question of balance and tradeoffs. You need as good a suspension as possible, excellent brakes (rotors that can handle lots of heat and appropriate pads), as good a rear differential as you can afford (I have a Torsen T2R Racemaster), a smooth dependable transmission that can handle your torque with reserve, a throttle responsive engine setup (e.g., fly wheel, carburetion setup, etc.), a camshaft that is not too aggressive or mild, and much more. You must set up your accelerator and brake so that you can heel and toe with ease. You may need a slightly smaller steering wheel to give you more legroom for heal and toe. If you are the sole driver, once you know your best seating position, you can take out the slider and bolt the seat directly to the floor (saving you 1-2 inches of height).

If you are going on a track, you do not want to take any shortcuts on safety. If it is safer on the track, the car will also be safer on the street. You will need a roll bar that is a least a broomstick higher that the top of you racing helmet. You want 5-point seat belts and a seat that is comfortable and keeps you from sliding around. Instructors will often not go with you unless they have 5-point seat belts as well. At a minimum, you will need a latched fire extinguisher that you can reach – a halon system is a plus. You need to get the best tires that you can get. They are your only contact with the road. You do not need racing tires to go to the track, but you need tires that you can trust to act consistently.

Note that I have not said anything about the engine except implying that it should be responsive at all RPMs (idle to redline) and dependable. Horsepower and torque is a matter of preference unless you are racing; otherwise, the objective on going to the track is improving YOUR skills to get your car as close to, but not over, the edge as possible. In one sense, you cannot get enough horsepower and torque. You just have to learn to sensibility control it through appropriate use of the throttle. You can grow into more horsepower and torque. It is hard to gain it later if you do not get the cubes, etc. up front. The side pipes on most of these cars are very restrictive despite their looks. You want to minimize header and side pipe restrictions so that the engines will breath properly. Your engine builder will be responsible for what gets to the headers. Since you do not want a pure track car, be sure that it is built to run on pump gas.

Any car can be a track car provided it has the safety items for taking it to a track. Seat time is more about the driver than the car. Your job is to learn how to get the maximum out of whatever you are driving. You want a car that is dependable. My car is expected to drive to, on, and from the track. It is not taken to and from on a trailer. By the way, my car is also expected to be a daily driver and to travel across country. I am planning on about 800-1000 track miles, some drag quarters, and perhaps 10000-12000 street miles this year. I have already taken it on a 2000 mile highway round trip this year. I park it only in the winter since Michigan gets lots of snow and salt.

[Richard Hudgins]

Why not JBL?

-Steve [/b]

You know the old line.

"If you have to ask"!

[Clois Harlan]

I race and Cruise my Cobra and I have no complaints with my ride while cruising. My compromise comes with my engine. It doesn't like low RPM's (below 2500) or unleaded gas. I believe you can have a very good handling road racer and a "fairly comfortable" street car. After all look at the Mazda's they are a respectable street car.


Back to your original question...In my opinion the JBL will serve both purposes very well as will the Backdraft. I have driven both on the track. My B&B had to modified a little (not much but a little say $2500.00 or so).

Clois Harlan

[Siberian64]

Hello Richard Hudgins - I sent you an email the other day - not sure if you got. Hope you get back to me!

[Richard Hudgins]

Sorry,

I did not receive an email form you.

However, I noticed that the email shown in my profile was incorrect.

For some reason it showed a clubcobra email? No clue how that got there.

It is now fixed.

[Siberian64]

Hello Richard!

Email sent....