Oil Filters

[Ant]

I have a Systems 1 filter which has the stainless steel screen 45microns screen, and the ball bearing relief in the base, used it recently while dynoing the engine, has a small pressure loss, as we measure pressure pre filter and engine block. All engines make metal to varying degrees especially race engines, and I was really surprised at the small amount of metal and a wee bit of lint, probably from me as I took the alloy pan off to modify!

I thought the 30 micron would be better but I am told by people who have what I consider far more experience than I the 45 screen does a great job, when I see a lineup of Formula 5000, and other engines most with System 1, the balance is to have flow and remove the harmful contaminants.

With cold start up we are going to heat the oil tank and use a water (thermosyphon heater in the water system) so I cant emagine the engine running on bypass for any amount of time, and oil pressure equalises and it will have pressure on the back side of the relief valve (ball bearing/seat) for cold oil start after the initial cold burst of oil and the system stabilizes I cant see a problem there.

This is a bit like the BS oil tests done with friction and loading bearing surfaces, some are better than others, and people saying their oil or filter choice is better, most dont know I deal with the most successful race service provider here in NZ, and have access now to their facilities and they only advocate what has worked for them, and if that is less tear downs, winning the championship last year. They seem to buy parts and oil that are designed for high performance and racing eg buy a diagnostic screen filter that has more flow than an over the counter paper filter, because its more important to have flow than maximum filtering, the same for oil they use mineral 20-50 in the GM Formula 5000 engines and Race synthetic in most other smaller etc engines, what that tells me is most products will work well!

We used Chevron Delo 400 on the dyno and reading all the oil bible and others opinions, this oil is designed to run in petrol as well, so I will take with a grain of salt that it is no good in petrol as some say. I will use this for about 2000miles and then go onto either Scheaffer semi-synthetic or Castrol mineral oil, maybe after 4000miles I could use Motul but I think with our type of V8 engine technology a mineral or semi-synthetic, and one the manufactures states has taken into account flat tappet camshafts. Also I have used the Oberg screen type filters, which appear to be good, but I think System 1 is a good product for my application. High mileage road cars are different but I reckon System 1 would do a good job there as well, just go down to the finer filter element.

[Traveller]

I think sometimes we worry too much about our cars.

Most of us (including the "FE" guys) are running motors in our Cobras that were intended for daily-driven passenger cars using a "nothing special" oil filter.

I believe any name brand filter is probably good enough.

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by Traveller

I think sometimes we worry too much about our cars.

Most of us (including the "FE" guys) are running motors in our Cobras that were intended for daily-driven passenger cars using a "nothing special" oil filter.

I believe any name brand filter is probably good enough.

When one considers the amount of time, cost of upgrades and potential cost of repair due to internal lubrication problems, I have a hard time accepting your point.
From a personal point of view I have no problem incurring the minor extra cost and work needed to protect what I have invested in my engine. Plus I want to run it, not fix it, because a cheap filter failed.
I doubt that "probably good enough" is an answer that will gain much acceptance.

[Traveller]

Originally Posted by lineslinger

When one considers the amount of time, cost of upgrades and potential cost of repair due to internal lubrication problems, I have a hard time accepting your point.
From a personal point of view I have no problem incurring the minor extra cost and work needed to protect what I have invested in my engine. Plus I want to run it, not fix it, because a cheap filter failed.
I doubt that "probably good enough" is an answer that will gain much acceptance.

Did I say "Cheap"?

And I'm not seeking acceptance, just sharing my opinion.

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by Traveller

Did I say "Cheap"?

And I'm not seeking acceptance, just sharing my opinion.

As am I.

I did not mean to imply you were advocating the use of cheap filters, could care less about your acceptance issues, just taking issue with your opinion.

If any owner has 12 - 20K in an engine I would suggest the "name brand" filter may not be the first choice.
The "we worry too much about these engines" opinion expressed I do not buy in to.
Your view point of "any name brand filter is probably good enough" is an opinion I do not to agree with.
Thus my response to your opinion.

[rdorman]

I use one of those toilet paper filters......

[Roscoe]

I've used the Wix racing filters for years.

Roscoe

[RICK LAKE]

Ant I agree with you on some of the things. The guys around here that dirt track run 40-50 microns in Omni filters. Some of the older guys are running Wix and have no problem with them either. It's all how much is in the pocket. My only concern is airation of the oil. Depending on which oil wieght, sythesic like Mobil1, or Amsoil, and how bad the track is for dirt in the air for how small you can go with micron range and have a small pressure lose. I run a small fram 3780or 3870 on my car. It's a peanut. So far it's takes the 135 psi for cold starts and seams to have good flow for racing. When I go dry sump, I will go with a 1 1/2 oil filter for this motor. I do stay away from any dual filters that have paper and cloth in them, Like some of the Frams and STP's. I will say that the oil from these filters seamed to stay cleaner longer. I did think there is a pressure drop with them. I have always run HV or HVHP oil pumps with a min of 60 psi at 2,000 rpms on any of my motors. I also have started to add accusumps to all my trucks for peroilers. What are the jet boat racers using down there? Rick L.

[Ant]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Ant I agree with you on some of the things. The guys around here that dirt track run 40-50 microns in Omni filters. Some of the older guys are running Wix and have no problem with them either. It's all how much is in the pocket. My only concern is airation of the oil. Depending on which oil wieght, sythesic like Mobil1, or Amsoil, and how bad the track is for dirt in the air for how small you can go with micron range and have a small pressure lose. I run a small fram 3780or 3870 on my car. It's a peanut. So far it's takes the 135 psi for cold starts and seams to have good flow for racing. When I go dry sump, I will go with a 1 1/2 oil filter for this motor. I do stay away from any dual filters that have paper and cloth in them, Like some of the Frams and STP's. I will say that the oil from these filters seamed to stay cleaner longer. I did think there is a pressure drop with them. I have always run HV or HVHP oil pumps with a min of 60 psi at 2,000 rpms on any of my motors. I also have started to add accusumps to all my trucks for peroilers. What are the jet boat racers using down there? Rick L.

Rick, Do any of the race guys run the stainless screen cannister filter shown earlier in RedCSX1's post? I am going with a 1-1/2-12 remote filter adapter on my dry sump system and will either run a Wix 51222R or a reusable screen filter as they appear to have the flow and good filtering!

[Ant]

Traveller, with a daily street driven engine I am sure thats no problem, my engine 15 years ago would have cost close to $75k with the internals etc, and like a lot of FE owners who have gone with very expensive internals delivering over 500bhp to 700bhp with some big strokers it makes sense to get good oil flow and filtering in order to compliment the rest of the engine.

Rick, I had a 1-1/2 HP6 adapter but went for the System 1 as it came with its 45 micron element, I phoned System1 and they said the 45 will take out the harmful particles. I agree any good race filter or good flowing filter will do, with filters people have as many differing ideas as with oil products so its all good.
I looked at the Omni filter and they are no doubt a good product along with Wix, Fram etc and the full flowing Ford HP recommended filter, like Rosco and yourself use. Regarding Jet boats I guess they use the standard filter on the block, or a remote filter.

[Bob In Ct]

I remember when Volkswagens didn't even have an oil filter (or for that matter a gas gauge) and they pretty much ran forever.

Bob

[Traveller]

There's a little known feature here called the "ignore list". I rarely use it but in your case linslinger I'm making an exception.

Welcome to it

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by Traveller

There's a little known feature here called the "ignore list". I rarely use it but in your case linslinger I'm making an exception.

Welcome to it

Great idea and good call.
Better for all that way and I thank you for the welcome.

[CowtownCobra]

I use the Moroso racing filters...and nothing butt

[rattlesnakepete]

I just checked my four vehicles and 3 of them had Frame oil filters. I swapped them for Baldwins. Two of the three Frames buckled torsionally when removing. Glad I got them off. The Baldwins are very stout and woul never buckle in this manner.

[RICK LAKE]

rattlesnakepete Pete I have seen this problem for almost 30 years. Dumba$$ lube people can't read the SIMPLE instructions on the box or filters. Tighen my hand until it stops free spinning then 1/4 turn with hand and you are set. The other thing is not oiling the gasket. That rubber glues to the mount over time and this is way the filters all crush when trying to remove. If the filter crushed with a cup, band wrench, or strap wrench, the the installer doesn't know what he is doing and needs to attend class 101 oil filter school. I have seen guys do this to pi$$ off the next guy who has to screwdriver or chisle off the old one. I have been lucky with catching the buttheads, getting the boss to address this problem. No body likes and @$$ crewing from the boss. Rick L.

[Bob In Ct]

I've had my Cobra for 8 years now. During that entire time I have used the Mobil1 M-301 filter. Last week I changed to a Moroso racing filter. The micron rating on the Moroso is 27 microns, the micron rating on the Mobil1 is about 10 or 11 microns. I'm getting just a little more pressure (3-5 PSI) both at idle and at running speeds. I thought there would be a bigger difference. I'll probably leave the Moroso on for the winter and go back to the Mobil1 filter in the spring.

I also changed from Mobil1 5W-30 to Redline 5W-30 at the same time so the comparison is somewhat shakey. The published data shows the Mobil1 5W-30 to be just slightly thicker however.

Bob