Oil Filters

[mk2gt40]

Has anyone ever done a test on oil pressure readings when using different manufacturer oil filters. For example Fram against Mobil 1 etc.?

[Maurice Butler]

pull a few to pieces and the cheaper filters have less filter paper in them - so they clog faster allowing the bypass valve to open letting unfiltered oil into the engine :-<

[elric]

I use Baldwin B2HPG. Check bobistheoilguy.com for everything you need to know about oil & filters.

[Nedsel]

A professional mechanic friend of mine says most any oil filter you can buy in Wal-Mart or similar won't do a great job of filtering out what it supposed to. He highly recommends the Motorcraft FL-HP 1, which is pretty much only available through a Ford dealer.

[patrickt]

I've always used Moroso. There is a theory that filtering too small of a particle size hampers the overall efficiency of the filter. Here's a quote from the Moroso site:

Moroso engineers have determined, with the help of research performed by filtration technology experts, that particles smaller than 20 microns in diameter are not large enough to produce engine wear. Furthermore, Moroso engineers have also found that filters with extremely low micron ratings create an excessive pressure drop across the filter. They can be so restrictive that the filter by-pass valve can open. And with the by-pass valve open, NO FILTRATION occurs, and you have no way of knowing!

To maximize filter performance, Moroso Oil Filters have a rating of 27 microns, which produces a maximum initial restriction of only 2.5 psi when tested to SAE j806! The result is less pressure drop, more flow, less oil by-pass and maximum filtration...

[patrickt]

Not to mention that any filter that has "Race Proven" prominently displayed on the side must make the car go faster, corner better, and leak less often....

[Snakebit]

K&N Oil filters

[ERA Chas]

Pat,
Why the t-band clamp on the filter?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Pat,
Why the t-band clamp on the filter?

I safety wire anything that can rotate free, i.e. spinners, oil filters, politicians.... You can see the safety wire if you look closely.

[RedBarchetta]

In 30 years of driving I've yet to lose an oil filter due to vibration.

But I do use one of these instead...

http://www.filtermag.com/

Simple FL1A for me. I change my oil too often to not worry about a clogged filter. That doesn't mean I'm right. I've just grown tired of trying every filter under the sun and the FL1A (and the Wix brand) are constructed better than most.

-Dean

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

In 30 years of driving I've yet to lose an oil filter due to vibration.

I used to say that as well....

[RedBarchetta]

And if I ever do, well then, the motor needed replacing anyway!

Actually, I index the filter to the remote adapter with a paint marker. A quick visual before each start-up tells me if it has loosened any.

[Rick Parker]

The "cheaper" ones have thinner steel in the mounting face and also have smaller holes with ragged edges on the holes contributing to less flow. This is not a place to scrimp on a "Couple of bucks".

[RedBarchetta]

What no one has mentioned are oil pressures. If your cold OP is north of, say 60-65psi, then you should be looking at a filter that is built for that (i.e. higher burst strength). Filter failure is extremely rare on the streets, however I can see the merits of safety wiring and using a race filter when maintaining consistently high revs around a track. And we all know where the oil goes when it exits the filter/block... :-(

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

And we all know where the oil goes when it exits the filter/block... :-(

Uhh, it makes a mess. And smoke, a lot of smoke, I'm talking a s---load of smoke. So much smoke you'd think you were at Mt. St. Helens. Fortunately, when it happened to me I was not in the Cobra.

[RedCSX1]

So here is what you do. Cut a new filter open and try to blow though the filter media or better yet pour oil through it. At best you are hoping the filter material grabs most of the contaminants before it hits the bi-pass. That includes that moroso you are running Pat. I used to run one on my expensive 427. Now I am running a filter set up with a stainless screen and ball bearing return. I can inspect the oil and reuse the filter. One of the better moves I made.

[lineslinger]

I am using a System 1 reusable oil filter. You only need to buy one, you can select the filtering capability you want in terms of particulate size and they can handle up to 30 gallons per minute.
I run an OP of 70 - 100 psi.

[J Persons]

Here's a link to a guy that has dissected just about all available filters, and examined their innards, along with a commentary on each one. It seems the only one to stay away from is the Fram, and those built by Fram.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...tml#motorcraft

[mk2gt40]

Thankyou, but has anyone ever started his motor with lets say a Fram, taken the oil pressure reading, switched off and then fitted lets say a K& N and seen any better / worse reading? Also ever switched from dash 10 to 12 to oil cooler and seen difference good or bad?
As far as wiring filters, drain plugs is concerned its mandatory for racing.Not the greatest sensation hitting a pool of antifreeze/oil at highspeed!
Ross

[RICK LAKE]

mk2gt40 Ross not sure if you are running a cobra or GT car. If you are going to run on the street #10 lines, a HV oil pump, oil cooler and almost any oil filter that have a filtration of 20 microns is OK IF you let the motor and oil warm up a little before driving the car. For Racing with or without a dry sump system, #12 lines through the whole system and running a 2 quart oil filter like Mobil 1. I like the design of an Omni sandwich oil filter but 20 or less microns is too small, IMO for racing and possible cause airation of the oil. This filter allows you to do a quick check for any metal damage in your motor without cutting a filter apart. I have seen a few hard cord racers running Baldwins and Mobil 1 There are good for 200+ lbs of burst. Use the bigger lines if possible to off set all the connections of fittings. Try and get hi flow fittings if possible. Every fitting causes a small loss of flow and down in oil pressure. You have to remember that the oil pressure you see on your gauge IS NOT what is getting to the #7 and #8 rod bearings as far as flow. There is a differents between static pressure and flow pressure, IMO. I do run a fram filter in my cobra part time. I use a accusump as a preoiler for the motor before startups. I don't drystart my motors. IMO this prevents alot of damage to the bearings and rotating parts. No metal on metal rubbing. Rick Lake