Oil cooler question

[Automan]

Hi Everyone!!!

Im now looking into installing an oil cooler on my AC. Has anyone installed an oil cooler on their AC? If so, what brand did you use and from who? Did you need a shroud?

Ive been looking at Finishline's British Style for 135.00 US and Shroud for 80.00 US i believe plus 80.00 shipping to Ontario Canada. With the exchange rate at 1.35 CDN to 1.00 US, you can see why im having trouble getting it by the wife lololol. Honestly honey, i really need it lololol!!!

My 427 is running great so this cooler is really for looks lol. Dont tell the wife.







thanks
Nelson

[1GR8BOSS]

Sent you a PM

Rick.

[fastd]

Fwiw I disconnected my oil cooler. Could never get the oil warm enough unless I was killin it.

[CHANMADD]

I've used this for many years. Its cheap enough that every time there is an engine problem I just buy a new one.
B&M SuperCooler Oil Coolers 70265 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
look in my gallery.......I also used hoses that do not require clamps......been there for years ...not a drop leaked ..
Obviously you need an adapter that fits directly under the filter.....and the cold oil automatically bypasses the cooler.......hence all the cooler talk about oil temps dont make sense......do it right..

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by fastd

Fwiw I disconnected my oil cooler. Could never get the oil warm enough unless I was killin it.

Running a thermostatic bypass valve will solve this. Mocal, Derale, Earl's etc.

[patrickt]

I have an oil cooler, with no thermostatic valve on it. My oil temp tends to track with coolant temp, generally around 185 degrees in the summer, and it doesn't get driven in the winter. I recently posted a thread on my oil analysis after having the car sit for four months and the oil having not been changed in four years. There wasn't a molecule of moisture that showed up and the oil temperature articles that aren't "shooting from the hip" peg the temperature for the least amount of engine wear at the low 180's. Here are two typical articles of that ilk: The heat is on: Our experts agree on the best oil temperature and Elephant Racing | Tech Topic | Oil Temperature and Engine Life and there are many others.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Running a thermostatic bypass valve will solve this. Mocal, Derale, Earl's etc.

Link to an Earl's @ Speedway: Earls 501ERL Oil Thermostat, -10 AN Female O-Ring - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

Filter adapter type: Earls 502ERL Billet Aluminum Sandwich Style Oil Thermostat - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

[DWRAT]

On my Superformance the oil cooler and lines are there but NOT plumbed into the oil system.
It looks great and is not needed for oil temps.

[Automan]

has anyone used finish line oil cooler products or should i just go to summit?

[saltshaker]

I have one in my A&C and the oil really doesn't get to temp, looks cool but I need a thermostat to take advantage of it. If you drive on very cool days the oil won't heat up. I have a Mocal oil cooler
Jon

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I have an oil cooler, with no thermostatic valve on it. My oil temp tends to track with coolant temp, generally around 185 degrees in the summer, and it doesn't get driven in the winter. I recently posted a thread on my oil analysis after having the car sit for four months and the oil having not been changed in four years. There wasn't a molecule of moisture that showed up and the oil temperature articles that aren't "shooting from the hip" peg the temperature for the least amount of engine wear at the low 180's. Here are two typical articles of that ilk: The heat is on: Our experts agree on the best oil temperature and Elephant Racing | Tech Topic | Oil Temperature and Engine Life and there are many others.

Consistent with your comments, this link (Performance Unlimited 4-Wheel & Off Road Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Technical Documents) shows optimum oil pan temperatures in the range of 175°-195° F. It also shows how bearing temperatures are typically 75° F or higher than oil in the pan, and it's the bearings we're really trying to protect.

This article (5 Things You Should Know About Motor Oil | Driven Racing Oil) recommends oil sump temperatures between 180° and 220° in order to drive out moisture and keep the oil dry.

This is a good article (http://www.wearcheck.co.za/downloads...tin/tech43.pdf) that covers a broad range of topics relating to oil, including temperature, viscosity, lubrication, etc..

The consensus certainly seems to be that optimum oil pan / sump temperature is in the range of 185°F +/- 10°F. OTOH, this article (http://towprofessional.com/article/s...-vs-petroleum/) shows the temperature limits of synthetic are considerably different than petroleum oils, with higher limits for synthetics (which is what I'm running).

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

Consistent with your comments...

There are many myths, and perpetuated wives' tales, surrounding oil, its makeup, its additives, its pressure, its temperature, how to get condensation out of it, how often to change it, and so on. Sometimes, the source of an old tale was the result of an effort to get that last little eensy bit of horsepower out of an engine, without a real concern on whether you're going to have to rebuild it again next year. Other times, it's the attempt to allocate "common sense" to the problem even though that's the absolute wrong approach to take. Like, for instance, water becomes vapor at 212 degrees, so you have to get your oil up to 212 degrees in order to get the water out, right? And, of course, there's always the old "more is better" approach, which gets applied to oil pressure, ZDDP percentages, etc. It's just hard to tell some people that everything they've known to be true for decades is just plain wrong.

[kevins2]

I installed an oil cooler to fill the cowling for the look but didn't connect it. Glad I didn't as my oil temp runs 180* and never gets over 210* even in summer. A bigger concern, according to most "experts", is initial wear when oil is cold. I installed an oil pre-heater and like that fact that I start off with oil temp at about 120* so it reaches optimal temperature a bit quicker.

[CHANMADD]

The oil cooler cannot work properly without a thermostat. It's the same principle as the coolant . It has to , the fluid that is.slow down whilst its in the cooler so that it can cool. If it rushes through it just comes out the other side uncooled, and return to the engine hot.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

The oil cooler cannot work properly without a thermostat. It's the same principle as the coolant . It has to , the fluid that is.slow down whilst its in the cooler so that it can cool. If it rushes through it just comes out the other side uncooled, and return to the engine hot.

"... if you increase the amount of turbulence and make the oil follow a more tortuous path so as to bring it into greater contact with the cooling surface area to obtain greater heat dissipation you will increase the oil pressure drop, often the very problem you are fitting an oil cooler to avoid. "

Source: Oil Cooling, frequently asked questions :: Mocal

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

The oil cooler cannot work properly without a thermostat. It's the same principle as the coolant . It has to , the fluid that is.slow down whilst its in the cooler so that it can cool. If it rushes through it just comes out the other side uncooled, and return to the engine hot.

It's a myth that fluids need to slow down or spend time in the cooler or radiator to properly cool. The thermostat is not there for velocity control, it's there to prevent oil from over-cooling and allow it to get up to temperature as quickly as possible.

"A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However, the
cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in
the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the
cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot
spots", which can lead to failures." Source: http://stewartcomponents.com/index.p...ormation_id=11

[CHANMADD]

OH well..........

[CHANMADD]

I guess the biggest reason and the reason for the thread is that when the oil is cold it will bypass the cooler, and warm up quicker....

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by CHANMADD

I guess the biggest reason and the reason for the thread is that when the oil is cold it will bypass the cooler, and warm up quicker....

Yes I agree.

Running the extra oil volume of an oil cooler, I would be running a thermostat to allow the oil to get to operating temp faster and then maintain that temp.

A large efficient cooler will allow this, but without a thermostat, the oil won't warm up enough from short trips.

Then the acid buildup in the oil eats the bearings away.

[patrickt]

Unless your Cobra is closer to a daily driver than it is a "special event' car, I just don't think you need a thermo valve for your oil cooler. With my car, 1) I never even reach for the keys unless it's at least sixty degrees outside; 2) My engine has no choke, so I have to pump it, get it to fire, and then I have to "feather" the throttle for a couple of minutes until it will even idle on its own; 3) I don't even pull out of the garage until I see the needle on the water temp start to move up and it will hold an idle without me heel and toeing; 4) I almost never drive it for a period short enough that the oil temp doesn't get up in to the 180's. On brutally hot days, and a little hard running, it'll go up in to the low 190's. I run Brad Penn 15w-40 and it flows quite nicely at sixty degrees, so I don't need to warm it up with a butane torch or the like.

Now, if I was in the habit of running up the street to the 7-Eleven in the Cobra, and then turning around and coming right back, not only would it take me three times as long, but the car would never warm up, my plugs would foul early, condensation and acids would form in the oil, rust would grow from the moisture inside the side pipes, etc. But that's not how I drive the car.