Side Pipe Cutouts

[Maximus1]

Hi there!

I recently bought an A&C kit, and I'm waiting for the rolling chassis to be built and delivered. As I wait, I have been working on some research and planning to help get ahead of things. One thing that I recently noticed is that the body does not come with the fiberglass side cut outs for the side pipes, unlike some other kits. Also, the manual that I have does not address making those cut. I was wondering how people have been successfully making those cuts. Has anyone made a template that can be drawn over the spots as a cutting reference....once its determined where the pipes will exit? Also, how does it effect the gelcoat along the edges? I imagine i'll have to sand the edges, but wondering if it will leave a dull looking coat. Also, did you put the body on, then look where the bottom of the headers lined up, then marked those spots for exiting? My last question is how does the fiberglass hold up with the headers right there? Any heat issues?

Anyway, simply put, I am looking for guidance on how to make a successful cut without damaging things nor making incorrect cuts that i can't take back.

Thanks, I'm pretty excited about getting this. I was looking at some other models, but i like the gelcoat option and the split delivery that they offer.

Thanks!

[strictlypersonl]

No magic here. Start with a small hole and enlarge. Get a straight piece of tubing that fits into the primaries. Once you enlarge the hole so that you can put the straight tubing into one of the primary pipes, you can use that location to approximate the other pipe holes. Leave a little extra clearance for when the engine torques over.

[Maximus1]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

No magic here. Start with a small hole and enlarge. Get a straight piece of tubing that fits into the primaries. Once you enlarge the hole so that you can put the straight tubing into one of the primary pipes, you can use that location to approximate the other pipe holes. Leave a little extra clearance for when the engine torques over.

This is great. Thank You!

[krausewich]

Depends if you are going through the body, or just under the body edge like most replicas do. Dry fit your build first.. body to chassis, engine/sidepipes.. then determine where you want the pipes to pass through and build your headers to there. I'm sure we can provide a template for both styles of pass trough, but most manufacturers bodies, chassis', side pipes and locations tend to differ enough to create a one-size does not fit all. I may recommend getting a few templates.. marking them, and go with the one that best fits your parts or taste.

[kevins2]

My driver side cutout was too close to the pipes and singed the paint - can see it on the trailing edge in the first photo. I used a dremel tool with a sanding drum to enlarge the opening after masking out the desired area. I was surprised at how easy it was and it didn't mar the paint - left a clean edge that I was able to touch up and the modification was undetectable. I would assume the gelcoat is more durable than paint so this method likely won't dull or otherwise damage the finish. If you rough cut the opening you'll have plenty of space to try the finish cut before getting to the edge where it matters. Also, the sanding drums were the perfect diameter to negotiate the curves.

[1985 CCX]

Here are mine
HTM111 is tight but works

[H-Rod]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

No magic here. Start with a small hole and enlarge. Get a straight piece of tubing that fits into the primaries. Once you enlarge the hole so that you can put the straight tubing into one of the primary pipes, you can use that location to approximate the other pipe holes. Leave a little extra clearance for when the engine torques over.

This is what I did.
I started with a small kind of like half circle cut and slowly went larger.
I used a small pneumatic airsaw. (Pick `em up at Harbor Freight)
The gelcoat on the A&C bodies is pretty thick and durable.
Cut a little, bolt on the sidepipes.
Remove sidepipes. Cut a little.
Lather rinse repeat.
Once you`re satisfied with your cut and pipe to body gap, Harbor Freight also sells sanding drums that you put on your cordless drill. (doesn`t spin as fast as a dremel and allows you to fine sand any awkward cuts.

I think I left a half-inch gap between the pipes and the top of the cutout in the body. (allowing room for the motor to torque on revs)

Also, anytime your cutting fiberglass, wear a dust mask.

Oh, one last thing, if your cuts aren`t as exactly super precise to the tenth of an angle, don`t sweat it.
That cutout is the lowest point on your car. Plus with the pipes exiting the body, nobody will notice.

[Maximus1]

Thank you for the replies and pics. Really appreciate it. Very helpful.