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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2004, 11:47 AM
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Location: Connellsville, PA
Cobra Make, Engine: A&C 351W
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Default Mounting Body?

What did you guys use between the frame and the body when you mounted it? The manual says to use walk mat I have a piece of garage floor mat that is about a 1/4" Thick and flexable.I bought it at a tractor supply store. Will this work? Did you spray adhesive down first? Does this work good enough so that the body will not creek and rattle going down the road? Also I'm at the point were I'm Going to be lifting the body off and on the car mounting things drilling holes etc. Does everbody just get four guys together everytime you lift the body off and on. Or Did anybody do anything different? Like build something to lift it or etc. Its not like I don't have any friends or anything I just don't like to be a pain by calling people all the time to help lift the body.
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:02 PM
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I used the rubber stuff you put between the kitchen cabinets and the floor. (coving?) Anyway, I cut it into strips and used some adhesive to hold it down. Been over 4 years now and not a squeak.

Roscoe
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:35 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectible 351 windsor bored and stroked tko tremec
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HI i used the rubber stripping used on inground pools. it is like 2" wide and about 1/8" thick and i used the spray adhesive made by 3m used for upholstery. the rubber rolls are used between the plastic stairs, and the vinyl liners. mine has been on for about 2 years and absolutely no squeaks. well good luck and questions please email me, Neil
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:53 AM
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Default walk mat

I used a heavy rubber carpet runner. The rubber is about an eigth of an inch thick and there is a very tight napped carpet on the top side. I cut it into strips and glued it to the frame rails. The carpet provides a good cushion and prevents any squeaking.

When I spoke with Joe at A&C about using it, his concern was that over time the carpet nap may disintegrate, however if it does all that would be necessary would be to tighten down the bolts I used to mount the body to the frame.

Regarding the mounting method, if you read the A&C assembly manual they recommend using rivets to mount the body to the frame. I was not satisfied with that so I drilled holes through the frame and used Grade #8 through bolts with washers, locks, and nuts. Naturally, i didn't bolt through the main rails as that would have required bolts that are at least 4-1/4" long. I bolted through the outriggers which are 2X2 boxed steel.

Tony
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Old 12-09-2004, 01:39 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Antique & Collectable 302, C-4,Ford 9 inch
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DcobraH! Post some pic's!

Jerry
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Old 12-09-2004, 02:50 PM
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I built a frame work from 2" channel iron leaving one side open so I could roll it over the frame of the Cobra. Used ratchet straps on each wheelwell to lift the body of the frame. I could remove the body by myself in a matter of 15 minutes. Use 2 starps per wheelwell so you don't run out of lifting ability. Used casters on the bottom so it would roll around. After the body was off the frame I set it on sawhorses to take the stress off the body. It worked great as you need to take the body on & off a number of times as you assemble the car. Check my album and there should be some pictures where you can see how it works.
hog
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Old 12-09-2004, 02:57 PM
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I only put the body on once.

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Old 12-09-2004, 03:11 PM
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...cat=500&page=5

try the above link for a picture of the lift.
hog
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:32 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Hunter #28; 396 Cleveland stroker; more than 495 HP; TKO 5 speed
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dcobrah;
Yes , do put some soft rubber mat'l between body and frame. Reducts raddles but more importantly makes a water seal from under car to inside. The fiberglass in not straight.

The most useful thing I did on my build was mount a 12" 2x6 under the lip of the dash and at the rear seat bulkhead; then mount a 2x6 fore/aft with joist hangers between the dash/rear. This allows you to get the "perfect balance point" by moving fore and aft a chain fall mounted to an eye on the ceiling. You can take the body off and on by yourself in about 15 secs. Put masking tape on the floor to box in the four wheel positions and it works like magic. I took mine off and on probably 75 times. you can roll the chassis out /in; even store the body up at the ceiling while you work on mechanicals. My body spent at least 6 months of it's life hanging from the ceiling while other work was going on. After finishing, I took the body off one last time to paint. After paint, rolled the body back in, hoisted up to the ceiling for storage, rolled the chassis in for the last time, did final hooks ups and lowered down for the final time.m Never needed any help. Wife really appreciated that!. BEST THING I DID.
Used a $35 harbor freight chain fall.

groover
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