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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2008, 01:01 PM
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Default 631/2 center oiler (solid lifter) Question about oil

What oil should i use in my engine. I have been told that the current oil that i am using isn't good. That i need zink in my oil because of the soild lifters. I'm just using 10W30 quakerstate.

any help would be great.

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Old 07-14-2008, 01:13 PM
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How long has it been built/running?
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:26 PM
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I have the same vintage motor and have been running 10w 40 Shell Rotella diesel oil. High zinc but I bought a couple of cases prior to this past January when they lowered the zinc content. I have 1 oil change left before I need to start adding zinc to the oil. ZDDP is one additive. Do a search on this site for zinc as there are a couple of good treads on the subject.

Tim
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Last edited by 55312; 07-14-2008 at 01:58 PM..
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Old 07-14-2008, 01:29 PM
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The motor has 350 miles on it only since it was remanufactured. Still breaking it in.

Automan
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Old 07-14-2008, 02:59 PM
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I would grab some Rotella diesel oil or Valvoline VR oil and throw in a can of GM EOS.
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Old 07-14-2008, 04:07 PM
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I been informed that the new formulation of Redline (synthetic) has a high ZDDP content.
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Old 07-15-2008, 03:49 AM
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Whats so important about zinc in my engine?

Automan
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:03 AM
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Zinc and Phosphorus are additives that help cut down on break-in wear. This is extremely important for flat tappet cams....not so much for roller cams. LOTS of people, even professional engine builders that advertise on this forum are having trouble with flat tappet cam break-in due to the change of oil formulations over the past couple of years. It's almost a "cross your fingers" type deal now. If a cam goes flat, you've lost a cam and a set of lifters. If it's a bad case, you're in for a rebuild as the metal will kill the bearings and scar the crankshaft journals.

If you've made it this far without wiping the lobes off, consider yourself lucky....but I would be changing oils and throwing in a can of EOS just for reassurance.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:47 AM
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take a read on this guys article.

it geeks out a bit (but i dig that) and talks about the where and why of oil.

http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf

From what i read elsewhere, zddp as an oil addition is being pulled due to the pressure for the Mfrs to have a 120K mile catalytic converter emissions warranty.
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Old 07-15-2008, 04:50 AM
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Just started reading about this zinc issue. Is an additive still needed if a syn. oil is used ? Ive always liked Mob. 1
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Old 07-15-2008, 06:32 AM
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Only for solid lifter cams. Roller cams are fine as is. If you want the scoop on catalytic life times and the removal of zinc and phos, go to

http://www.zddplus.com/index.htm

Biased of course but worth a read.

Tim
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:25 AM
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My engine builder put Roller rockers on my heads. does that eliminate myself from the zinc additive? Maybe thats why i have gone 350 miles without an issue?

Automan
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Old 07-15-2008, 08:29 AM
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No, the main concern is the camshaft and lifters.
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Old 07-15-2008, 10:39 AM
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What about my case. Solid flat tappet with 6,200 miles.
Good break in and using 10/30 -5/40 weight. (not 20/50 that some like)
No problems so, am I lucky ?
At this point, should I go synthic with zinc ?
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Old 07-15-2008, 11:20 AM
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it is not recommended to use synthetic to break in those engines.
there are breakin oils(some already mentioned) to handle this. i use
brad-penn products, this is the refinery that used to make the old
kendall green racing oil. they have a breakin oil (for initial start-up to
break in the camshaft) after that i would recommend the 20-50 they
offer. i have found the valvoline gets the consistancy of water after
about 100 miles, i have stopped using this. i cant comment on the shell
product i have no experience using it. i can say that the brad- penn
performes excellently for street and racing, i even have a hard time wiping
it off of surfaces, its quite sticky, the viscosity remains after heating and
punishment. i have 3 solid cam installs using this oil and no failures.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/


Fred
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