Disc Brakes

[saltshaker]

I've followed A&C'S suggestion for brakes...11" rotors with GM metrics up front and Explorer disc in the rear. I want manual brakes and it has been suggested that the Explorer rear disc's won't work correctly. Joe said to use a 1" corvette master cylinder, how is this working for those of you that have the same set up. Anything would would change?
Jon

[rdc767]

Pedal pressure is good not too hard. Stops on a dime. I am using a brake proportioning valve and have it all the way open for max rear braking. The rears don't lock up. I am using a 1976 corvette manual cylinder. Only thing I wish the outlets where on the engine side. Not a big deal you just have to reach around to attach the lines. You have to find the rod that actuate the pedal to master cylinder. I can't remember where I bought mine. If you need it I can find out.
Ron

[saltshaker]

Ron,that would be a big help!
Jon

[Roscoe]

I'm using a Tilton Racing floor mounted pedal set with dual Afco torpedo type MC's. I have the Explorer rear brakes but upgraded the fronts to Wilwood 4 piston calipers. I also have the Tilton balance bar on the pedal set.

[rdc767]

Here is the manual push rod and clevis for the vette master cylinder. I remember it is a bit long for the foot box. I used a stick to first measure then I trimmed the rod down a few inches. You might want to call them to verify the rod diameter is correct. I just did a search I think it is correct.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/pro...product_id=573


Here is a picture I took last year. I think I had to add a 1/8 steel plate to add a little extra metal to mount the master cylinder. I think the holes were not aligned just right.
Make sure you drop the holes down on the pedal to get more leverage. If you need I can go and measure mine. Manual brakes need a bit more pedal pounds of force. There is not much travel in the pedal needed so lower on the pedal you mount the clevis the more force you can apply.