Burnt plug boot, anything new

vettestr · #1 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 09:00 AM

Just a shout out to all the collective wisdom on CC. I have 2 spark plug boots the headers keep burning because of my header tube and plug location. I run an unusual header and head configuration that relocated the spark plug in the head exasperating the problem. I carry 2 plug wires and live with it now.

Is there any new product out there like a short body spark plug, space shuttle heat shielding or ???

I have reshaped the header tubes as much as possible short of building new headers. Made a metal heat shield with a slight air gap, use Fire Sleeve and high dollar plug boots, and all I could think of. The plug boot is just too close to the header tube so I need a nuclear fix here

ItBites · #2 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 09:55 AM

Accel makes a shorty plug (maybe 1/2 inch shorter or less) for header clearance. Other than that, youve tried all the quick fixes already.

I had to build my own from scratch to get the clearance I need. I am changing to Dart heads right now and checked last night for the raised port location and found I still have plenty of clearance to the plug wires. Building headers is a PITA! If you plan to do it, I have some 2-1/4" bends left over, but those may be too big for smaller motors. They work great on my 540 and I got to make them all equal length with 4-hole flanges and merged collectors, etc...

RICK LAKE · #3 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 10:17 AM

Vettestr Both places sell socks for this problem. Try under DEI industries. Jegs list them under spark plug boot guards. MSD also list them under PRO BOOT GUARDS. The other thing would be to reroute the wires with wire looms away from the headers. You may have to route them under and over the header pipes to protect them. I have had this problem before myself. Rick L.

Danr55 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 10:17 AM

Jeff, Have you tried using Nomex sleeving?

Bob Broberg SPF667 460BB · #5 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 10:19 AM

You could always switch motors with Dan.

Just trying to help here.

AZ Bob

vettestr · #6 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 10:31 AM

Morning E.,
I am running Dart Pro 1 heads but they are heavily modified for use in a Comp Eliminator car. The plug location has been moved in the combustion chamber. Long story but header trade offs only left 2 issues that might have been OK, they are not ideal so here I am.

I have not found a short body plug with 14mm diameter with 3/4 reach after a lot of internet searching. Still looking for a fix before making new headers but running out of ideas.

Rick Parker · #7 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 10:35 AM

I too have unusual headers. A couple of the plug boots got mushy from the heat. I replaced the boots and got the fireberglass heat sleeves. They have done a good job. No more damaged or melted boots.

vettestr · #8 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 10:38 AM

Dan, I have boots and they do help???
Rick, Have not tried DEI but have tried other manufacturers, re-routing too
Bob, hmmmmm I don't think so!!!

I may try these next - any feedback http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hp_boot.php

SwiftDB4 · #9 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 11:06 AM

After I toasted 2 boots on my GT40 engine I got the DEI/Jegs/Summit fabric 'socks' mentioned above. Solved the problem completely.

ItBites · #10 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 11:26 AM

Or is this the motor out of the blue car in another application? This sounds like the same motor you've had for years...

Anyhow, the DEI boots are about the same as all others. I have used them all before I had to build my own headers for both the Vette (454) and the Cobra (540). Neither car is any issue now, but that is huge work.

I do recall that Jacobs Ignition used to sell a ceramic boot plug wire that was supposed to not burn. It had a porcelean housing in place of the usual silicone boot. Downside is, as I recall, that the boot was about 1-1/2" in diameter and I never could get them to fit with any header just due to their big diameter...

If you do decide to build, I have some flexible, corrugated heat riser tubing that I used to lay-out the routing of all four tubes during mock-up. At least then you geta view of what all four will look like before cutting starts.

ItBites · #11 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 11:31 AM

Jeff,

Just saw the reflect-a-boot. May help, but only if you have no contact (if you have contact with the boot or sleeve, you're hosed). You could take some red hi-temp RTV and glue a couple wraps of aluminum foil around one of your current boots and achieve the same thing for a test period (may be a little ugly, but it is a test). If it works great, buy the real ones. I suspect the reflective part will only be a marginal improvement over what you already have, but I've been wrong a couple times today already

.

DWRAT · #12 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 12:46 PM

Jeff,
If you want I can work on it for you at my house.
Just bring it over and I will tear it apart and see what I can do for you.

Tom Cimino · #13 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 12:57 PM

Accel Pro Fit Ceramic Spark Plug wires. They have a ceramic boot that's supposed to withstand 2000 degrees.

vettestr · #14 (**permalink**) 03-23-2010, 03:52 PM

Tom,
Thanks I checked out the ceramic set from Accel extreme 9000, a possible. I had some old ceramic bots used on the old hemi engines that kinda helped, not same as the ones you suggested.

E. I do have an air gap between the boot and tube. The plug boot is lasting longer with all the tricks but still want more.

I dented the tube as far as I dare. I wrapped tube in plug area (a few inches) with header wrap cloth. I then made a heat shield but had hard time holding in place... not so good results there. I use a plug boot made of some high heat weave or nomex type cloth. I use the high dollar hi heat silicone wire boot still burns the boot in 2 places after a while.