Control arm bushings

[Gofastoldguy]

What is the correct replacement lower bushing for a Mk III FFR lower control arm? I can't remember if it is a Moog or Mustang part or applicable year.

[mikiec]

Contact FFR.

Did they not get replaced during your oops?

[Gofastoldguy]

Mike…no. They were fine. I have a torn boot and just want to replace a 13 year old joint rather than just the boot.

[mikiec]

If there is no movement in the ball joint, just replace the boot. The FFR forum should have an answer.

Mike

[Karl Bebout]

Jeez, I get corn-fixed so easily. Thought you were looking for lower A-arm bushings and then Mikie starts talking about a lower ball joint.???

Bill, FOR can give you the part number and brand and then just go to your local NAPA and they can convert that to a good MOOG number. I don't know of any better chassis parts.

Watch out for Mikie, he'll lead you down the garden path...

[mikiec]

Karl,

I'm guessing on the Ball Joint. Sometimes Bill gets things wrong. Bill bring it to 83rd tonight and we will check it for you.

[Robert McLinden]

Here is a hint for you guys. If it is located by the wheel it probably is a ball joint. If it is located by the chasis it probably is a bushing. There are exceptions. Just fix it.

[vettestr]

Originally Posted by Gofastoldguy

Mike…no. They were fine. I have a torn boot and just want to replace a 13 year old joint rather than just the boot.

Who you kidding Bill? You have never had a joint last for 13 years.
You might be able to buy a poly boot separately or just buy the stock lower ball-joint for a Mustang. Do you have aftermarket control arms or stock?

[Car Nut]

If its a shift lever boot, you can use just about anything.

[Fitz]

We all loose our ball joints after 65?

[mikiec]

Actually the right foot boot, that's the one that has caused most of his trouble.

[Gofastoldguy]

I am sooooo lucky to have "buds" like youse guys for advice. I ordered a Mustang ball joint to be safe. Thx to all.

[Gofastoldguy]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Karl,

I'm guessing on the Ball Joint. Sometimes Bill gets things wrong. Bill bring it to 83rd tonight and we will check it for you.

OK….OK…Ball Joint. Remember I am an elderly resident & sometimes get confused and disoriented. At least I ordered the right part (I think)
Regards,
Bill (more hair than Mike) Bryan

[mikiec]

Do you have the Mustang lower on the car? If not, did you verify that FFR used the Mustang part on their lowers? Did you order one for the other side? How about the upper's?

[RedSnake351]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Do you have the Mustang lower on the car? If not, did you verify that FFR used the Mustang part on their lowers? Did you order one for the other side? How about the upper's?

Mikie, you sound like a cop, WAAAAY too many questions!

[Gofastoldguy]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Do you have the Mustang lower on the car? If not, did you verify that FFR used the Mustang part on their lowers? Did you order one for the other side? How about the upper's?

Mike...b-joint had debris thru the broken boot. Joint opposite was excellent/tight. Uppers checked out fine. Found slightly loose RF wheel bearing. Did alignment check while up in the air. -1deg neg camber, 1/16 toe, 6-8 pos caster. Should be ok Yarnell. BTW uppers and lower arms are the optional ones from FFR. Thx, Bill

[big.al]

Be careful replacing lower ball joints in the FFR arms. I attempted to upgrade to a higher quality ball joint in my brand new FFR arms and the holes in the arms are about .005 bigger than the new ball joints (which are oversize Moog for rebuilds) FFR response to this: "The FFR Front Lower Control Arms were designed in a similar fashion as the Factory Ford Lower Control Arms with respect to the ball joint design/replacement procedures. Ford states that it is recommended to replace the entire control arm assembly and the ones that come in a FFR front lower control arm are already over sized" . They would be glad to sell me another $400.00 set but I will weld these in as others have done. FYI, per FFR 87-93 mustang. The Moog part # is K8259

[Car Nut]

.005" is about the thickness of two sheets of thin paper and not all holes are perfectly concentric. They may press in with some resistance anyway, if not, I would be inclined to use Green Loctite retaining compound, a permanent product used for engine sleeves and other components, instead of welding. I believe you can still remove with heat for future replacement, or you could use red.

An installed ball joint is not going to fall out, so you just want to be sure it is not working itself around in hole.

[big.al]

.005 doesn't sound like much but it's enough that the ball joint moves considerably in the hole not even close to any type of friction fit. Falls right out. According to the specs to the hyper-linked product , that green loctite retaining compound is for all threaded engagements less than or equal to 1/2 inch in diameter. But the Loctite 638 Retaining Compound is good for up to .010 clearance on cylindrical parts with a shear strength of 4200 lbs. This may be a viable option and I will research more. Sorry not trying to hi jack the original post.

[Car Nut]

You are correct, my reference to green threadlocker was not. Brain fart, corrected my thread. While both are green, they are a vastly different product. Thanks.