 
Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
|
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|

12-26-2013, 11:49 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Avondale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory Five Roadster
Posts: 484
|
|
Not Ranked
Control arm bushings
What is the correct replacement lower bushing for a Mk III FFR lower control arm? I can't remember if it is a Moog or Mustang part or applicable year.
|

12-27-2013, 03:17 PM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
Contact FFR.
Did they not get replaced during your oops?
Last edited by mikiec; 12-27-2013 at 03:22 PM..
|

12-27-2013, 10:49 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Avondale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory Five Roadster
Posts: 484
|
|
Not Ranked
Mike…no. They were fine. I have a torn boot and just want to replace a 13 year old joint rather than just the boot.
|

12-28-2013, 07:30 AM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
If there is no movement in the ball joint, just replace the boot. The FFR forum should have an answer.
Mike
|

12-28-2013, 07:54 AM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Mesa,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #2119 289FIA
Posts: 5,380
|
|
Not Ranked
Jeez, I get corn-fixed so easily. Thought you were looking for lower A-arm bushings and then Mikie starts talking about a lower ball joint.???
Bill, FOR can give you the part number and brand and then just go to your local NAPA and they can convert that to a good MOOG number. I don't know of any better chassis parts.
Watch out for Mikie, he'll lead you down the garden path...
__________________
Karlos
"In the Land of the Pigs, The Butcher is King"
|

12-28-2013, 10:48 AM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
Karl,
I'm guessing on the Ball Joint. Sometimes Bill gets things wrong. Bill bring it to 83rd tonight and we will check it for you.
|

12-28-2013, 11:06 AM
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Chandler,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: 396W Kirkham KMPS036
Posts: 240
|
|
Not Ranked
Here is a hint for you guys. If it is located by the wheel it probably is a ball joint. If it is located by the chasis it probably is a bushing. There are exceptions. Just fix it.
__________________
Bob McLinden
ERA FIA 2080 SOLD
Kirkham KMPS036
|

12-28-2013, 12:30 PM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glendale,
AZ.
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobray-C3, The 60's body lines on todays chassis technology
Posts: 2,302
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gofastoldguy
Mike…no. They were fine. I have a torn boot and just want to replace a 13 year old joint rather than just the boot.
|
Who you kidding Bill? You have never had a joint last for 13 years.
You might be able to buy a poly boot separately or just buy the stock lower ball-joint for a Mustang. Do you have aftermarket control arms or stock?
|

12-29-2013, 02:08 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix,
az
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 848
|
|
Not Ranked
If its a shift lever boot, you can use just about anything.
__________________
_____________________
..
|

12-29-2013, 02:30 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wickenburg AZ- PHX, Cinci, Indy before,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR Mk 3 408 530 - 585 T- mustang Dyno at B&R
Posts: 1,836
|
|
Not Ranked
 We all loose our ball joints after 65?
|

12-29-2013, 03:25 PM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
Actually the right foot boot, that's the one that has caused most of his trouble.
|

12-29-2013, 07:51 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Avondale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory Five Roadster
Posts: 484
|
|
Not Ranked
I am sooooo lucky to have "buds" like youse guys for advice. I ordered a Mustang ball joint to be safe. Thx to all.
|

12-30-2013, 11:04 AM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Avondale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory Five Roadster
Posts: 484
|
|
Not Ranked
A Joints' a joint
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikiec
Karl,
I'm guessing on the Ball Joint. Sometimes Bill gets things wrong. Bill bring it to 83rd tonight and we will check it for you.
|
OK….OK…Ball Joint. Remember I am an elderly resident & sometimes get confused and disoriented. At least I ordered the right part (I think)
Regards,
Bill (more hair than Mike) Bryan
|

12-30-2013, 05:50 PM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
|
|
Not Ranked
Do you have the Mustang lower on the car? If not, did you verify that FFR used the Mustang part on their lowers? Did you order one for the other side? How about the upper's?
|

12-30-2013, 07:50 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carpentersville,IL & Maricopa,,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: ACE, 351W, 3550 Tremec, Raging(?) Red W/ White Stripe.
Posts: 2,082
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikiec
Do you have the Mustang lower on the car? If not, did you verify that FFR used the Mustang part on their lowers? Did you order one for the other side? How about the upper's?
|
Mikie, you sound like a cop, WAAAAY too many questions!
__________________
SPEED WAS HIGH - WEATHER WAS NOT - TIRES WERE WET - X MARKS THE SPOT
Burma Shave
|

12-31-2013, 08:28 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Avondale,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Factory Five Roadster
Posts: 484
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikiec
Do you have the Mustang lower on the car? If not, did you verify that FFR used the Mustang part on their lowers? Did you order one for the other side? How about the upper's?
|
Mike...b-joint had debris thru the broken boot. Joint opposite was excellent/tight. Uppers checked out fine. Found slightly loose RF wheel bearing. Did alignment check while up in the air. -1deg neg camber, 1/16 toe, 6-8 pos caster. Should be ok Yarnell. BTW uppers and lower arms are the optional ones from FFR. Thx, Bill
|

01-01-2014, 03:21 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 14
|
|
Not Ranked
Be careful replacing lower ball joints in the FFR arms. I attempted to upgrade to a higher quality ball joint in my brand new FFR arms and the holes in the arms are about .005 bigger than the new ball joints (which are oversize Moog for rebuilds) FFR response to this: "The FFR Front Lower Control Arms were designed in a similar fashion as the Factory Ford Lower Control Arms with respect to the ball joint design/replacement procedures. Ford states that it is recommended to replace the entire control arm assembly and the ones that come in a FFR front lower control arm are already over sized" . They would be glad to sell me another $400.00 set but I will weld these in as others have done. FYI, per FFR 87-93 mustang. The Moog part # is K8259
|

01-03-2014, 07:33 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix,
az
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 848
|
|
Not Ranked
.005" is about the thickness of two sheets of thin paper and not all holes are perfectly concentric. They may press in with some resistance anyway, if not, I would be inclined to use Green Loctite retaining compound, a permanent product used for engine sleeves and other components, instead of welding. I believe you can still remove with heat for future replacement, or you could use red.
An installed ball joint is not going to fall out, so you just want to be sure it is not working itself around in hole.
__________________
_____________________
..
Last edited by Car Nut; 01-04-2014 at 07:15 AM..
Reason: Corrected product
|

01-04-2014, 05:05 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 14
|
|
Not Ranked
.005 doesn't sound like much but it's enough that the ball joint moves considerably in the hole not even close to any type of friction fit. Falls right out. According to the specs to the hyper-linked product , that green loctite retaining compound is for all threaded engagements less than or equal to 1/2 inch in diameter. But the Loctite 638 Retaining Compound is good for up to .010 clearance on cylindrical parts with a shear strength of 4200 lbs. This may be a viable option and I will research more. Sorry not trying to hi jack the original post.
|

01-04-2014, 07:15 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Phoenix,
az
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 848
|
|
Not Ranked
You are correct, my reference to green threadlocker was not. Brain fart, corrected my thread. While both are green, they are a vastly different product. Thanks.
__________________
_____________________
..
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:30 AM.
Links monetized by VigLink
|