10-40 or 20-50 oil ???

[DWRAT]

Finally tested out the 10w-40 oil today.
65-70 psi cold at any RPM.
57 psi once warmed up and anything above about 2,000 rpms
40 psi at 1,200 rpm (where it likes to idle if I don't drag it down a bit).
30 psi at 1,000 rpm (when I drag it down a bit)
Oil temps ran a bit higher then in the past with the 20w-50 but my guess is outside temps had something to do with it.

[Danr55]

I read all of these numbers being thrown around about PSIG and clearances but very few comments about cam and lifter arrangements which is really the critical component when discussing oil viscosity and the need for zinc, phosphorus and other additives. Wouldn't it make sense to put all of the information out like the different requirements for a hydraulic cam vs. a solid lifter cam vs. a roller cam? Oil pressure is a real bugger. Some folks get nervous when it drops below 40 PSIG while some folks are normally around 40 PSIG and idle around 20 PSIG. This can be really confusing for someone not really in tune with operational requirements of different types of motors.

[DWRAT]

Ya, cam info would be helpful if I knew what I had hiding in there.
I hope I never have to figure that out.

[mikiec]

DW, just put Mobil1 in and see what happens. LOL.

Or contact the owner and see if he knows.

[DWRAT]

Originally Posted by mikiec

DW, just put Mobil1 in and see what happens. LOL.

Or contact the owner and see if he knows.

LOL,
I did contact the original owner and here's 90 percent sure it's a roller cam but he's not really a motor head.
He did send me the factory car cover all the way from Juno AK.
I tried the motor builder competition Enginering but they all out of bus.
I do have the dyno sheets but no cam info there.

[Car Nut]

Originally Posted by DWRAT

I just change my oil with Brad Penn 10w-40 and I still have 65 psi on cold start.
Didn't have a chance to warm it up yet.
Planning on taking up to Flagstaff for the summer.

According to your link, you put in synthetic motor cycle oil. The description reads as follows:

"Blended with Pennsylvania Grade base oil, select synthetic components and superior additive chemistry, this high performance SAE 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil offers the ultimate in quality, performance and protection for motorcycles. Meets JASO MA-2 performance requirements for use in wet clutches. Suitable for use in Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha and other 4-stroke motorcycles where an API SJ, SH or SG quality oil is specified. May also be used in ATV's, golf carts, 4-wheelers and other 4-stroke engine applications. Always consult your owner's manual for proper viscosity and quality selection."

Really?

[DWRAT]

Originally Posted by Car Nut

According to your link, you put in synthetic motor cycle oil. The description reads as follows:

"Blended with Pennsylvania Grade base oil, select synthetic components and superior additive chemistry, this high performance SAE 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil offers the ultimate in quality, performance and protection for motorcycles. Meets JASO MA-2 performance requirements for use in wet clutches. Suitable for use in Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha and other 4-stroke motorcycles where an API SJ, SH or SG quality oil is specified. May also be used in ATV's, golf carts, 4-wheelers and other 4-stroke engine applications. Always consult your owner's manual for proper viscosity and quality selection."

Really?

No Carnut,
I used 10w-40 car oil.
Those crazy blue links are not added by me it's a type of advertisement that this website does, it's called Viglink.

[Car Nut]

Guess your car won't be making those Honda noises. I wonder if I will get a Viglink.

[Danr55]

I wonder if it will get sold?

[DWRAT]

Originally Posted by Danr55

I wonder if it will get sold?

I don't think so, that Steve286 guy PM'ed me for my info but never called.
I will most likely move it to Flagstaff so I can use it a little bit.

[mikiec]

You have a top. You can use it everyday.