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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:28 AM
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Let me guess..... The top of the valve.stem got peened over and lost the keeper... Close?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2017, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by moore_rb View Post

Hey- at least I had a legitimate reason for not making the fun run... What's your excuse, Mr. Crossed-Flags and Cinnabons ???
Oh I was there, ask Karl or Keith or Scotty or Jim.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-12-2017, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by AZ Cobra Mike View Post
Rob I would trade your software problem for my hardware problem.
I thought that was a canted valve for a new set of heads MIke, the flat black looks like it matches your car now.
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Old 05-12-2017, 12:38 PM
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Rob I would trade your software problem for my hardware problem.
I see the problem: the valve has a right hand twist instead of left hand.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:20 PM
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Valve spring broke and all hell broke loose. Down a valve, springs, valve guide, and one lifter. Got super lucky and the piston and head is ok. Didn't bang up the valve seat either. Got her shut off real quick.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:46 PM
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You got very lucky that the Piston isn't deformed and out of round.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2017, 10:56 PM
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Hopefully your piston skirts are not bent in like mine were when something damaged the top of my piston.
You will know if it knocks when you get it all back together.
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:54 AM
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Hmmmmm.... Would I re-use that piston?

In a 200 HP, 4000 RPM truck engine: yeah, probably. A little work with the file to knock down all those rough edges (those are future pre-ignition/detonation risks) and I could live with one cylinder that is 1/4 point off in the compression ratio.

But in a 6000+ RPM hot rod engine? Hmmmmm...

Considering that it looks like a generic Sealed Power piston, it's only gonna add about $30 more to the repair bill if they're cast pistons, and maybe $60-$75 more if they're forged... Cheap insurance. JMHO

(Side-bet: I'll wager that those are cast pistons, and that what you got there is a generic parts-store rebuild long block- I can't imagine a performance engine builder using inverted dome pistons on a street/strip performance engine build- again, JMHO)
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by moore_rb View Post
Hmmmmm.... Would I re-use that piston?

In a 200 HP, 4000 RPM truck engine: yeah, probably. A little work with the file to knock down all those rough edges (those are future pre-ignition/detonation risks) and I could live with one cylinder that is 1/4 point off in the compression ratio.

But in a 6000+ RPM hot rod engine? Hmmmmm...

Considering that it looks like a generic Sealed Power piston, it's only gonna add about $30 more to the repair bill if they're cast pistons, and maybe $60-$75 more if they're forged... Cheap insurance. JMHO

(Side-bet: I'll wager that those are cast pistons, and that what you got there is a generic parts-store rebuild long block- I can't imagine a performance engine builder using inverted dome pistons on a street/strip performance engine build- again, JMHO)
I agree, but sometimes budget considerations override the wish list. At a minimum though, I'd knock down the ragged edges on the top of the piston like Rob said. I'd also magnaflux the head to ensure that there is no cracking on the valve stem boss. And, in keeping with what Rob said, I'd start a cookie jar fund for a replacement engine or a performance overhaul. (I'm starting my own cookie jar for that purpose.)
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2017, 01:03 PM
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Sorry to hear about this Mike. I would do a quick check of the other valve springs as well. Hard to be absolutely certain if they are in good shape or not but might be good to do at least a visual inspection and free height check. I think I would just try to clean up the piston and reuse it.
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moore_rb View Post
Hmmmmm.... Would I re-use that piston?

In a 200 HP, 4000 RPM truck engine: yeah, probably. A little work with the file to knock down all those rough edges (those are future pre-ignition/detonation risks) and I could live with one cylinder that is 1/4 point off in the compression ratio.

But in a 6000+ RPM hot rod engine? Hmmmmm...

Considering that it looks like a generic Sealed Power piston, it's only gonna add about $30 more to the repair bill if they're cast pistons, and maybe $60-$75 more if they're forged... Cheap insurance. JMHO

(Side-bet: I'll wager that those are cast pistons, and that what you got there is a generic parts-store rebuild long block- I can't imagine a performance engine builder using inverted dome pistons on a street/strip performance engine build- again, JMHO)
My FE has dish pistons (Diamond) to keep the compression at 10:1. It would have been closer to 11:1 with flat tops. Mike may have the same issue depending on his heads.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2017, 03:55 AM
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Gonna go with all new springs. Replace the broken parts and hope for the best. Should be fine. I'm not turning massive HP like some of you guys. Hopefully back on the road in a month or so.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:42 PM
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Do keepers, retainers, seals while you're at it. Measure one of your good push rods to ensure you get the new one the right length. Rocker look good? Take a hard look at the dog-bone lifter retainers. I had one break allowing the lifter to rotate. Cam didn't like it.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2017, 04:48 PM
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And...take a good look at your dist. gear. It'll never be easier to change, than now and might save some head aches down the road. I'd read good things about the composite gear so went with that. Its supposed to outlast bronze gears by about 5x, as I remember. Taint cheap.
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Old 05-29-2017, 05:00 PM
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Hey, Mike looks fixable. Do it right. Will it be done before my next visit? At least it was not caused by FOD. Unlike Dan Rat's engine, it had self induced FOD.

Mike
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Old 05-29-2017, 05:24 PM
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Hey, Mike looks fixable. Do it right. Will it be done before my next visit? At least it was not caused by FOD. Unlike Dan Rat's engine, it had self induced FOD.

Mike

Dare I ask, what's FOD???
My motor problem was from bad advise on how to remove carb base studs.
Not my fault at all.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2017, 08:30 AM
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It's a flat tapper motor .. Karl???
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2017, 08:38 AM
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Foreign Object Damage FOD. I got her all back together and running good. Needs a little tuning but she sounds great.
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:56 PM
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Glad you got her running again Mike.
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Old 06-01-2017, 07:30 AM
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WOOT!

Are you bringing it out to Scottsdale on Saturday morning? I still want to see your wrap in person, too...
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