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Old 02-26-2020, 04:45 PM
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Default Hello, new here, question about Az Heat

Hi, I'm not new to the car world, but I'm BRAND new to the Cobra world. I just bought a Backdraft (its being shipped to me now). I live out in NE Mesa towards Saguaro Lake.

Since transit takes a while, it has given me extra time to overthink things. One of those things is overheating in our climate. Do any of you have any engine overheating issues with your cobras or are they pretty darn robust? For instance, I think some BDR's come with traditional radiators (those prep'd for small blocks) and some have larger 4 core ones (those prep'd with big blocks). Mine has the traditional electric 16" BDR fan on it, but I don't know what radiator it has. Regardless of motor, is it a requirement in Az to have an over-sized radiator and/or a specific thermostat or better fan(s)/shroud? I don't plan on driving this thing on 118 degree days because I would die...but there may be a time when I take it to work in the morning, park it in the shade, and drive home at night when it's hotter. I don't want to give our brand a bad reputation by being stuck on the side of the road.

I'm probably just overthinking this, but figured it would be great to get some real life experience from you experts who live here. I think I can figure most other stuff out from searching, but I didn't see a definitive answer on this for our climate.

Any other Az tips you have? The car is a little older (maybe 2011 from what I can deduce on the paperwork) but only has 2000 miles on it. So I might need to replace the tires, hoses and maybe replace the thermostat to be preventative?
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:16 PM
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wifey has a backdraft built in 2014 w/small block 427 crate 535hp.
the rad had a leak and we got it fixed but the repair shop told us it came out of a bmw (model unknown) which is a little small for a 427. it seems to me that backdraft installs parts that are available and cost-effective.
i have a problem with the plastic rad tanks, so we had a custom one built, which is almost twice the volume, and i installed a high flow thermostat. also, today i installed a 3000cfm electric fan. i've done all this at no small expense but i'm a believer in being prepared.
i'm sure others will chime in but this is just my 2c worth.
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:45 PM
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If the fan is weak, you may have issues AT IDLE. Once you are rolling, the radiator gets plenty of air. You can look the mfrs specs, but typically fans that draw less than 15 amps may not have enough cfm at about 0.8” vacuum.
A good shroud is important as well.
I’m sure we’ll meet soon enough.
Good luck, be safe.
Mark
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Old 02-26-2020, 07:52 PM
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The BDR comes standard with the OEM BMW E36 (325i) radiator. (1 row)
The alum fan shroud and 16" 2200cfm fan are fine as is.
You can upgrade to an 2 row aluminum 30% increased capacity either thru Backdraft. (Iconic parts)
https://www.iconicparts.com/radiator...efficient.html

Mishimoto MMRAD-E36-92 30% more capacity
https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMR...2771349&sr=8-1

Mishimoto also makes an even thicker radiator thats 91% more capacity than the stock E36.
https://www.mishimoto.com/bmw-e30-e3...tor-92-99.html

or CSF 3054 30% more capacity
https://www.amazon.com/CSF-3054-High...770876&sr=8-10

Also you may take a look at your crank pulley dia. most kits come with the "Performance" underdrive pulley to give a whole 6 more HP and switch to the OEM dia pulley to give you more GPM especially at idle. Very helpful in traffic.
On mine I switched from.
https://marchperformance.com/ford-sm...nk-pulley.html
To
https://marchperformance.com/ford-sm...nk-pulley.html


Last thing. If your car is an RT4 I'd call Backdraft and question them on radiator to see if it has changed from the RT3. So far I only know of drivetrain and suspension changes on the RT4.
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Last edited by spdbrake; 02-26-2020 at 08:07 PM.. Reason: added info
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Old 02-27-2020, 08:18 AM
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bd, welcome to the madness. You didn't mention what engine you'll have but the previous larger radiator recommendations are valid. One thing helpful is having a manual fan switch in addition to the thermostatically controlled one. I've found that when I'm going to be held up in traffic, I'll turn the fan on before the thermo switch kicks on, that my temperature will stay lower. Sorta like prevention rather than cure a bad situation.
BTW, hope you join us for our annual picnic AP 18, out at Saguaro Lake.
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Old 02-27-2020, 08:25 AM
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Welcome to the family Mr bdmiller909. Overheating is a car by car problem. If your car has been around since 2011, the problem would have raise it's head by now. Drive it just like it is and see what happens. In our history, the most likely time to ovrheat is during the summer in a parade with a big block. You then take steps.
Also join us on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/1603098773246056/ and send your info to Paul Gillespie to get on our email list for events. paul.gillespie@live.mail
And let us know your name.
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Old 02-27-2020, 09:05 AM
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Welcome to our little piece of.crazy. i have a big block car with a shrouded black magic fan that is manually controlled, sitting behind a four core aluminum Hawes radiator. I am running a 165 degree thermostat and my car runs cool most of the time.
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Old 02-27-2020, 11:33 AM
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bd, when Danr sez "Welcome to our little piece of.crazy. i have a big block car with a shrouded black magic fan that is manually controlled, sitting behind a four core aluminum Hawes radiator. I am running a 165 degree thermostat and my car runs cool most of the time." he means when the car is actually running.
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Old 02-27-2020, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Bebout View Post
bd, when Danr sez "Welcome to our little piece of.crazy. i have a big block car with a shrouded black magic fan that is manually controlled, sitting behind a four core aluminum Hawes radiator. I am running a 165 degree thermostat and my car runs cool most of the time." he means when the car is actually running.

People in glass houses, KARL.
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:28 PM
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Thank you so much Everyone!

I never would have thought to consider all of your ideas: Pulley size, override switch, not to mention all the other details and suggestions on parts and what it comes with originally. This is fantastic acumen, I'm so glad I asked and thank you for the time you all took to reply.

I made a request to your FB page. The request is under Ben Miller.

As far as the engine goes, this car has a Keith Craft 351W.

I was thinking about all of this, along with the fact that I don't even know of a good shop in PHX (one closer to my neck of the woods be nice, but I get it if there are only a couple). I'm guessing one doesn't simply roll into Discount tire and ask them to remove the wheels without them asking where the lug nuts are. What would be my options around town to do things like the cooling upgrades and a tire swap if needed. I probably opened pandoras box like most forums of car shop favorites, but I figure it's worth asking.

Ben

Last edited by bdmiller909; 03-03-2020 at 03:31 PM..
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:12 PM
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Hello bd and gang,

I too just joined the forum, bought and had delivered our RT4 to Scottsdale. Regardless if my RT4 never overheats, I really like Karl's method of insurance, i.e. the manual fan switch in addition to the thermostatically controlled one. Any recommended shops in my area that can do work on the Backdraft?

Thanks in advance.

Gus
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Old 02-28-2020, 03:48 AM
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Call Charlie Sullens at American Classics in Deer Valley.
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Old 02-28-2020, 05:00 AM
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Call Charlie Sullens at American Classics in Deer Valley.
They were in the process of moving during Barrett Jackson. New address:
11002 N 23rd Ave, Phoenix, Arizona 85029.

623-213-7288
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Old 02-28-2020, 07:04 AM
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Thanks for the info on American Classics!
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Old 02-28-2020, 12:03 PM
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Thank you everyone!
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Old 02-28-2020, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus M View Post
Hello bd and gang,

I too just joined the forum, bought and had delivered our RT4 to Scottsdale. Regardless if my RT4 never overheats, I really like Karl's method of insurance, i.e. the manual fan switch in addition to the thermostatically controlled one. Any recommended shops in my area that can do work on the Backdraft?

Thanks in advance.

Gus
Hi Gus, My BDR won't be here yet for a few more weeks. It's coming from out of state so I assume I'll have to pay some sort of sales tax and register the car to get plates. Did you have any key learnings while going through the registration process at the MVD? if you could outline your steps, locations, tips, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Ben
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Old 02-28-2020, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdmiller909 View Post
Hi Gus, My BDR won't be here yet for a few more weeks. It's coming from out of state so I assume I'll have to pay some sort of sales tax and register the car to get plates. Did you have any key learnings while going through the registration process at the MVD? if you could outline your steps, locations, tips, I'd greatly appreciate it!
Ben
Ben, I haven't yet gone to the DMV. Out of town but will do so in the middle of March. Gus
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:02 AM
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I believe you will need a Level II inspection.
You will need certificate of origin from BDR and receipts. After VIN assignment, you will go to DMV for registration, where you will be charged State sales tax. Additionally, some cities will send you a bill for their cut too.

https://azdot.gov/node/4915
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:04 AM
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Gus, another tip I've found very useful is to have a warning light wired in to indicate that the radiator fan is running. I have left my fan running when the manual switch was used and since I'm deaf as a post, I didn't hear it. With the light, I don't forget. My ERA has a red warning light that was never hooked up so that works very well for me. I don't know if BDRs have that but if not, its an easy addition. Little warning lights can easily be found on line.
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:09 AM
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I believe you will need a Level II inspection.
You will need certificate of origin from BDR and receipts. After VIN assignment, you will go to DMV for registration, where you will be charged State sales tax. Additionally, some cities will send you a bill for their cut too.

https://azdot.gov/node/4915

Heads up: The snag I ran into, for some reason the DMV didn't/wouldn't look at my insurance during registration. Then I got a letter about 4-6 weeks later, from the State, stating I didn't have insurance, my plates were suspended, and now would be SR22 (horrible insurance rate). It turns out Grundy either didn't get a request from the State or didn't follow up properly. I'd strongly recommend, a few days after registration, follow up with your insurance to make sure the State has your insurance on file.

Last edited by MKS427; 02-29-2020 at 05:20 AM.. Reason: Heads up about insurance
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