Putting in new springs, changing out the bushings and new shocks

Jason Lee Nye · #1 (**permalink**) 06-26-2002, 12:05 PM

I was planning on changing out as much as I can this weekend on my rear end. I bought the Ford Racing Springs, two shocks (if need be I will buy the quad shocks and install them at a later date), and the replace the worn out rubber bushings in the upper and lower rear control arms.

I have never done this sort of thing so I have some questions.

#1: What do I use to compress the springs and where do I get it?(can I rent them?)

#2: Will I need a total of 4 jack stands for the rear? Or can I get away with two jack stands and a floor jack? My understanding is that I have to jack the car up and lower the axle.

#3: Can I do this in one day?

**Mike or anybody in my area, I would be happy to bribe with beer, hot dogs, hamburgers and hard liquor if need be to assist me. I tried to also include dollar dancers but the wife put her foot down.

I know it is short notice so I understand if you can't stop by.

my e-mail is nyej@scottsdaleins.com

mikiec · #2 (**permalink**) 06-26-2002, 01:57 PM

Jason,

The springs and shocks are a snap. You will not need a spring compressor. 4 jack stands are always better than 2. You will need a hydraulic floor jack and some ramps. The reason for the reamps is that most jacks will not fit under the frame as they are to tall.

I can stop by Saturday. The change out can be done in about an hour.

Mike

Clois Harlan · #3 (**permalink**) 06-26-2002, 02:09 PM

It is easy...

You will need at least two jack stands, a good floor jack and some 1/2' drive sockets and ratchet and torque wrench and maybe a small 5# sledge hammer.

1st-lift and support both sides of the rear of your car so both tires are raised off the ground and remove both rear wheels.

2nd-put your floor jack under one side of your rear end and raise your jack so you compress your shocks about 1".

3rd-unbolt and remove your shocks and then slowly lower your floor jack then reach in and pull out your old springs.

4th-you will want to support your cars rear axel with some additional floor jacks or something stable.

5th-un-bolt your upper trailing arms (I did only one side at a time) remove your old bushings and install the new ones. Bolt back up but do not tighten until you finish the other upper and the lowers.

6th-Lower trailing arms are the same as step 5. After you have all new bushings installed and all your bolts are loosely tightened begin tightening the uppers to specs (60 or 70 pounds of torque). Be sure and use the lubricant on the new bushings or they will squeek for sure.

7th-Install your new springs and shocks and your finished.

Someone else jump in here and make sure I didn't give any bad instructions.

Thanks,

Clois

Jason Lee Nye · #4 (**permalink**) 06-26-2002, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mikiec
Jason,

The springs and shocks are a snap. You will not need a spring compressor. 4 jack stands are always better than 2. You will need a hydraulic floor jack and some ramps. The reason for the reamps is that most jacks will not fit under the frame as they are to tall.

I can stop by Saturday. The change out can be done in about an hour.

Mike

I have ramps, but my Jeep jack fits right underneath. I don't have a torque wrench though. How much do they run and are there different sizes?

mikiec · #5 (**permalink**) 06-28-2002, 09:28 AM

Jason,

I'll bring the torque wrench by. I'll try to get over about noon.

Have the car jacked up with stands supporting the 4 inch round tubes. Wheels off. Using the floor jack lift the axle assembly to remove tension on the axle limiting straps and shocks. Remove the axle limiting straps. Remove the old shocks. Now lower the jack and let the axle hang. Screw the springe up on the down tubes. Once the springs are off the seats you can remove the lower control arms. Get the new bushings pressed in. With the lower arms off you can remove the old springs and install the new ones screw the new springs all the way to the top. Replace the shocks at this time. Jack up the axle connect the lower shock bolt and axle limiting strap. With the axle secured you can now remove the upper control arms. There is one problem you may run into. The upper control arm front bolts. If they are installed backwards you will not be able to remove them with out cutting the bolt.

Mike

Jason Lee Nye · #6 (**permalink**) 06-28-2002, 11:46 AM

I was planning on starting at 9 am. I will see if Jack has a torque wrench or I'll just buy one. I am sure I will need one again and I hate using other people's tools.

Still stop buy though, I will be buying some beer and hamburgers ect..

. anybody else is welcome!

Jason Lee Nye · #7 (**permalink**) 06-28-2002, 11:50 AM

ps

I looked at the uppers, the nut is towards the front between the sheet metal and the upper control arm and the bolt head is out towards the rear.

Jason Lee Nye · #8 (**permalink**) 06-28-2002, 03:10 PM

Mike,

I called Checker and for a 1/2 in torque they want $45, I called Harbor Freight and they have a 1/2 inch torque for $19.99, however she noted that it is by the foot not the inch.... what do I need? by the inch or by the foot torque

mikiec · #9 (**permalink**) 06-28-2002, 05:08 PM

You should have 2 torque wrenchs.. One that reads in inch pounds and one for foot pounds. The foot pound one should be at least 1/2 drive. Do not buy a cheap one. Save money and get a good one later on. Sears; Mac; Snapon etc...

Upper control arm bolts seem to be in the correct position.

Mike

Jason Lee Nye · #10 (**permalink**) 06-28-2002, 05:13 PM

What is interesting I am involved with a litigation case with Harbor Freight Mail Order I don't know if this location in Phoenix is related to mine.

If Jack doesn't have one, can I pick yours up tonight?

what torque rating should I do the shocks and arms in. .... is it in the Factory 5 Manual?