Hey DV or Don Scott

Jim Downard · #1 (**permalink**) 09-09-2002, 05:16 PM

My heater core just blew out for the second time last night. I'm rather pissed at the moment, I'm sick of pumping out Lake Anti-Freeze from the passenger foot well. It's been there since last night and I rekon I'll have to pull the carpet and padding and replace it, or at least part of it. Anyway, Ed, I was wondering if I can refit my old car with the style of heater you have been using without pulling the dash. I'll bet not. Man, I don't even want to think of pulling that dash out. Don, if you have any other solutions I'm all ears. The heater that's in there now is NOT going back in that car. Hell, I'm seriously considering selling it as all summer it's been nothing but frustration. What's a Classic Roadsters with a 393 stroker and Tremec 3550 worth. If anyone else out there has had this problem, let me know what you have done.

Jim Downard

Double Venom · #2 (**permalink**) 09-09-2002, 05:40 PM

Jim,
Yup, you gotta pull the dash! It really shouldn't be that big a deal. YOu can probably do it without unhooking everything, just pull it loose.

This is your "second" heater core? I would think about doing a pressure test on the cooling system. There must be a reason it's blowing the cores. Radiator cap? What pressure cap are you running?

Inquiring minds want to know?

DV

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 09-09-2002, 07:38 PM

My condolances. My initial thoughts would be as DV stated, What kind of pressures are you running to blow out a heater core? And what are you using for heater and radiator hoses to make the heater core the weak link in the system? If the leak is pressure induced, and if it is the heater core that is leaking. I'm thinking this is could be something vibration induced, not pressure induced. If pressure was causing this, you'd be replacing hoses by the bucketfull.

These cars do vibrate more than just a little bit, and soldered brass connections attached to a hose, particularly if it's under any stress, will come loose at the solder joint.

The original CR heater was the worst $500 abomination I've ever seen. The plans called for the hoses to go through the side of the firewall, and attach to the core where the two brass lines came out under the dash. These hoses are going to chafe and cut at the firewall, and they're going to kink. They'll have to be replaced from time to time. How is that to be accomplished without getting coolant all over the passenger side footwell? And, how does one install the new hoses through the side of the firewall once the body is installed with human sized hands? Somehow, I don't think so.

Took blower and core out of Vintage Air mini heater, butchered the CR heater box so blower and core would fit, and hose bibs came out through front of firewall. This is a separate subassembly that mounts behind the wiper motor. No fresh air intake. Car already gets plenty of fresh air. Butchered the air distribution box for heat, and defrost as a separate assembly. Only one flapper plate. Mounted this smaller version over trans tunnel. Connected the two with a flexible air duct. No vacuum controls. Manual water valve that can be opened partway with a cable in the engine compartment just off the hose bib. Cable operated flapper, in - heat, out - defrost, middle - both.

As luck would have it, defroster dries windshield quite well except for a little patch directly in front of drivers field of view. That has to be done with a towel. The heater does handle our 20 deg winters though. Toasty with top on. And 40 deg spring and fall mornings too. Toasty with the tonneau on.

If you must pull this heater out for repair, either use DV's heater, or we'll go off-line and I'll show you how I did mine.

Cutting my teeth as a truck mechanic many years ago, and a British sports car mechanic some years later, I tend to build things for ease of maintenance. CR deluxe dash is a pain the way CR has it installed. Dash now comes off with 8 screws. Electrical all unplugs. Do have to drop steering column, and that's still a pain.

Double Venom · #4 (**permalink**) 09-09-2002, 08:41 PM

Jim.
I just came down from the shop. I have a heater in stock. If you want stop in take a look at it and I'll show you how we mount it. It's stock Vintage Air unit and very obtainable. This is one improvement we DID talk Roadsters into changing!

DV

Jim Downard · #5 (**permalink**) 09-12-2002, 04:20 AM

Ed, I'm using the same cap that I saw in your shop last spring. Say's Be Cool on it. Bought it from jegs, and I also bought the same coolant recovery tank, however, my system always seems a little low on coolant. Not sure what the pressure rating is on the cap as it doesn't say. Yes, second core. First one broke where the pipes are brazed into the core itself. The pipes were too long to be unsupported so I had a radiator shop add a brace between the two pipes for mutual support. It really seemed to strengthen the unit. Jack, the heater hoses are really easy to get in and out, at least it was for me. The rubber grommet keeps them from chafing.

I think I'm going to pull the carpet and insulate the footwells from the inside then recarpet. Maybe it will stay cooler in the summers. The stroker's running really strong now. I was climbing a hill in third gear the other day and the rear tires just started to break loose all on there own. OOOHHHHHH BABY. I still need to pull the Mustang II front suspension with tubular arms and coilovers front and rear this winter, then it's time to start thinking of building that New Zealand GT40. Looks really attractive.

Jim Downard

Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 09-12-2002, 01:10 PM

Jim,
The "Be Cool" Cap is just that. It just pops over a regular radiatior cap. We use 17lb caps at the most. Usually 13/14. Our systems always bleed a little but a small prive to pay to save that pain in the arse core!

Stop in an take a look at the new heater system. I think you will like it!

DV- PS how in the heck did this turn up in the ARIZONA THREAD?