Engine and tranny installed FINALLY

[NVJoker]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Jeff..

I must be getting old. I forgot that conversation.

Jason you need to jack up the back of the tranny 1 -2 inches. You should then be able to install the drive shaft. The same goes for removal.

Mike

But won't the drive shaft rub? After I set the tranny back down, won't it hit the brace?

[NVJoker]

Originally Posted by Paul Gillespie

Jason,
My project last summer

Jason,

Very nice, what paint did you use on the intake?

[Paul Gillespie]

It was Duplicolor Engine Enamel, 1605 Ford Red. I bought it at Checker I still looks good, it's not fading or discoloring.

[mikiec]

jas...

I just re-looked at the pics. I agree with Paul. Get the blower moved and the motor will straighten out and the tail shaft should move in the correct direction. You will still need to raise the rear of the tranny to install the shaft.

Mike

[NVJoker]

ONly problem with the blower bracket, there is no adjustment.

Question is, which would be easiest, paying someone to fab a new blower bracket or modify the bar?

[vettestr]

Jason,
What is the effect of either change or can it be done without &$(^( rolling down hill ? What is the reference of that bar to the body line? If you relocate blower then the plumbing, belt etc. are affected so maybe moving or notching the bar causes the smallest overall change. If the body is not too close right there then a simple kick-out to allow the body of the blower a little more room would be best.

Making a simple kick-out would be pretty easy. Weld the new shape in place or tack it well before cutting the bar so nothing else moves around. From the photos it looks like you only need 1/2" of room so piece a cake. I could notch that out and weld a step back in PDQ.

[mikiec]

Jeff,

The body does not go near that bar. I believe the bar is part of the crash structure.

Mike

[NVJoker]

Originally Posted by mikiec

Jeff,

The body does not go near that bar. I believe the bar is part of the crash structure.

Mike

You are correct Mike,

the closest part to the body is the top square tubing. I was thinking of cutting the support bar off at each end and moving the support bar to the top of the x -member where that small square tubing is going down and relocate the little square tubing forward or weld the top square tubing on top of the round support tubing if it is snug at the new location.

I really don't want to jack with cutting the tubing up by the firewall (wires, firewall and stuff already attached to firewall), can the tubing be heated up enough to bend to the new location in the front?


Jeff, I appreciate the offer but it would be pricey to haul the car down to Phoenix for something like this.

Just when I was getting on a roll

[NVJoker]

Here is a pick of the bar by the firewall

[Paul Gillespie]

I would look at altering the frame vs the bracket, you may need to cut a chunk 6-10 in and have like a U section put in so the bar doesn't contact the blower. need to account for engine movement as well.

[vettestr]

The photo shows the down bar contacting the body of the blower. Paul and I are on the same page but I think a much smaller notch and maybe solid mount on the right side if not L & R side. The down bar is structural but can be modified and will be stronger than before the notching.

I know the tow from Vegas is a bit long but if I can modify in less than an hour so can any other shop, just not a big deal Jason. You do need a little extra clearance as that is the torque side but limiter chain and/or a solid mount will reduce the movement to next to nothing.