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7Likes
06-02-2015, 12:24 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Cobra Make, Engine:
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New Arntz owner in CA (Pictures)
Hello everyone. I have enjoyed reading every thread in this forum, however, am still in the dark about many things about my new toy. Type 1,2,3? Does S/N indicate year made? etc. Any information would be greatly appreciated!
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06-02-2015, 12:26 PM
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A few more pix...
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06-02-2015, 12:29 PM
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couple more...
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06-02-2015, 01:04 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: VALLEY FORGE,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: SUPERFORMANCE w DOUG MEYER ENGINE
Posts: 1,958
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Cool car
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06-02-2015, 03:29 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Cobra Make, Engine: Former owner of Long Live the Bow tie Contemporary #102 427 Chevy .30 over Merlin heads 11to1, TBI injection
Posts: 746
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She is a beauty. Love the Chevy.
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06-02-2015, 04:40 PM
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Your suspension is set-up almost exactly like mine was. The strut rods in the rear, the lower aluminum support, the Koni's up front, and the sway bars are exactly the same.
Your interior and body look like an earlier version though. Your gauges are in different locations, you do not have the notch in the hood, your gas cap is in the center, and a few other things are different. Your engine seems to sit further forward than mine also. Mine is a very late Arntz Type 3. Yours maybe a late Type 2 or earlier Type 3?
If you read all the posts in the Arntz forum, there is an explanation of the different types. You can usually tell by the door hinges and door braces along with a few other noticeable items.
Last edited by joyridin'; 06-02-2015 at 04:43 PM..
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06-02-2015, 04:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Brisbane Australia. Cobra:Arntz Chev 454,
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Not sure which model came with your total waste oiling system ...
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Don.
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06-02-2015, 07:47 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: White City,
SK
Cobra Make, Engine: West Coast, 460 CID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donunder
Not sure which model came with your total waste oiling system ...
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Perhaps that's a transparent oil pan - not yet filled.
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Brian
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06-03-2015, 06:12 AM
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Brisbane, Australia,
Q
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary CCX3117 427FE
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Congratulations on the purchase - that's a beautiful looking car!
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Craig
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06-03-2015, 01:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gold Coast,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz, TKO600, 460
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Looks good.
Good selection of pics, and always interesting to note little differences that exist between cars.
Billboards fill the arches nice, front and rear sway bars and the trailing arm to the rear. Great pickup.
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06-04-2015, 12:32 PM
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Thanks everyone. After reading through this forum again, I still can't figure out what type this thing is or when it may have been made. Appears to be 1 or 2 maybe? Anyone have a 1 or 2? Seen numbers like the "145" welded on the frame?
Last edited by EB847; 06-04-2015 at 03:09 PM..
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06-05-2015, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leroy17
Looks good.
Good selection of pics, and always interesting to note little differences that exist between cars.
Billboards fill the arches nice, front and rear sway bars and the trailing arm to the rear. Great pickup.
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Thank you. I found your restoration thread. Have you figured out how to mount those quick jacks? I have all the parts and am going to try and fabricate something to install soon.
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06-05-2015, 01:39 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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No worries.
I am either going to weld brackets onto the chassis. Or most likely use some box tubing and bolt to the original drilled mounts in the chassis, then align and drill the two flats of the box so it aligns through the first and second hole and is secured at the exit of the second hole (if that makes sense).
If I don't get lazy, then my preference is welding tubes to the chassis so the quick jack rods mount through the tubes.
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06-05-2015, 01:43 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gold Coast,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz, TKO600, 460
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If its not to much trouble, I would like a few more pics of the trailing arm mounts at the rear and the clearance to the fuel tank tub just so I can picture it better. And it appears that its a simple U mount on the Jag hub.
And pics would be great.
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06-05-2015, 01:48 PM
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good ideas. when i get around to it i'll post some pix of whatever i come up with. i'd like to utilize the holes where the bumper "bars" bold into the frame somehow. going to have to remove some fiberglass. getting them just right will be a challenge i'm sure. fronts will be even harder.
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06-05-2015, 01:50 PM
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i can do that. do you know what "type" yours is?
Last edited by EB847; 06-07-2015 at 04:49 PM..
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06-09-2015, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leroy17
If its not to much trouble, I would like a few more pics of the trailing arm mounts at the rear and the clearance to the fuel tank tub just so I can picture it better. And it appears that its a simple U mount on the Jag hub.
And pics would be great.
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hope these help
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06-11-2015, 02:32 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gold Coast,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz, TKO600, 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EB847
hope these help
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Thank you very much.
Looking at the original pic I was presuming how it was done but this is perfect. Thanks for taking the time for these pics, it shows me exactly what I am planning to do.
And to answer your question, I am not sure what type (1, 2 or 3). However all docs I have are from circa 81.
Dont hesitate to put up more pics of your car, there is not a great deal of activity on the Arntz section and could always do more.
Also, was there a ride height change on your, some pics appear quite low, and some others appear lifted about 1.5 inchs.
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06-11-2015, 02:38 PM
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welcome. glad to help. no ride height change. just shadows/new tires. i'll post more when i get some new ones!
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06-11-2015, 02:42 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gold Coast,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz, TKO600, 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EB847
good ideas. when i get around to it i'll post some pix of whatever i come up with. i'd like to utilize the holes where the bumper "bars" bold into the frame somehow. going to have to remove some fiberglass. getting them just right will be a challenge i'm sure. fronts will be even harder.
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This is what I am planning. Using some box tube you can drill two holes to bolt it to the frame in the original mounting holes. Then align where you want the mounts to come through and drill through both sides of the box tubing and this would allow to tighten nuts against to set depth and be easily removable if ever needed.
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