Tires and Wheels

[65 Blur]

What are you guys running on your Arntz / Butlers?

Paul, I see you are doing some checking on another thread - any conclusions?

I have the Butler original set-up with the 15 x 10 Centerline fronts and 15 x 12 rear wheels, Halibrand wing nuts, hub adaptor, and PVC inserts. It came with 235/60's front and 245/60 rear. These seem small compaired to what others are running but I wonder how I would clear the fenders if I went larger.

[decooney]

Roy,
my friend Allen is running 15x12" rear wheels, deep offset, with 295/50/15s on the rear and 15x10" front wheels with 265/50/15s on the front. His Butler has a fairly narror Jag rear, and it looks like he could probably go up to 315s on the rear with a different offset wheel on the rear. MEATS!

[Tom Howland]

Roy,
My fronts are 265/50/15 BFGs on 8.5 US Indy Mags, (says Shelby Cal 500 on the inside of the wheel.) Spinner adapters. Rears are 295/50/15 on 10 US Indy Mags. The front wheels have a 5.25 off set, rears 6.25 off set. The rears I don't think could go larger. I have very small rub marks on the outside of the rubber. The inside of the tires would hit the fiberglass tub behind the seats if any larger. These rear offsets seem to be perfect for the tire size and wheel well space.

[65 Blur]

Guys,

I looked at the Butler sales sheet and they list BFG Euro T/A's 265/50/15 front and 295/50/15 rear...same set-up that you mentioned. I don't think the rear would be a problem clearing on mine, but the fronts already rub when she dives - any rubbing on yours?

It may just be my tired MBG suspension (which is going bye-bye this winter).

[Monster]

Had this on the original Arntz thread

Wheels from an SPF
 Front 7 ½ x 15 Trigo pin drive
 Rear 9 ½ x 15 Trigo pin drive

Tires
 Front BFG 275x60x15
 Rear BFG(Euro) 305x60x15


I have the MGB rack and find the 275's a bit "tiring" and will go down a size or 2 (245 or 255)

The rear's do rub a bit when I jump on it and I'll probably go to a 295 next time.

good luck,
Mike

[decooney]

Have any of you sent your Alden shocks (on some Arntz/Bulters) in for maintenance or revalving? I was taking a look at Photoguy's car (Alan) and it seems his are a bit soft and mushy. I recommended he send them in for servicing. We shaved his rear BBS wheels 1/3" to bring them in, and his 295s rub in hard turns or when he's on the gas real hard... I think the shocks servicing and the rear sway he just bought will do the trick...

If so on the Aldens, who did the work and where did you send them for servicing in the U.S.?

[Monster]

Duane

I have Aldan's on my car and I have the setting at 6. I was thinking about contacting Aldan cause I think the are a bit soft too, but I was also going to ask them about the spring rate. I can't remember what rating they are but they are probably contributing to the "soft ride". I need to dig up my paper work from my shocks before calling but I believe that I asked for the standard Butler spec shocks when I talked to them.

Mike

[Chifo Jr]

As for tires and wheels I went the "period incorrect" route of 17 x 9.5 and 17 x 11 with 275-40's and 315-35's Dunlop SP-8000. These are great tires!. No rubbing problems like I had with 15 x 8 and 15 x 10 with 275-50 and 295-50 BFG's. One thing that you must look carefully at is the placement of your rear end. Most early model cars had the rear end mounted at least .5" too far forward which caused tire rubbing on the cockpit tub. While I was very intimidated to correct mine, it took all of two hours to correct (body off in my shop) If anyone needs the proceedure let me know. As for rear Aldan coil overs, I have 300 lb springs on mine, they are new style a few months old and is very stiff. I may opt for 250 lb springs to lower it a bit. Anyone have a part number for front outboard Konis. Mine rides like I have a solid bar. compression stroke is ok but rebound is like a lowrider. It bounces down the street!

Now onto my cooling problem... What is the best head gaskets to use. I am going to bite the bullet and pull the heads so I can verify that the gaskets are mounted correctly.

Duane: You can send them back to Aldan directly. They are located in Carson California. You can get the number and adress on MSN.com or let me know if you have a problem and I will forward it to you. I just bought a set a few months back so I know they are still there.

[Monster]

Chifo,
Did you get your new fan? Upgrade your waterpump to an Edelbrock aluminum? What are the symptoms?


thanks Mike

[decooney]

A few tried and true things to pass along, even when trying to cool them hot FEs. In CA for sure...

* The BIGGER the puller fan the better in traffic. A MUST.
* Less anti-freeze, more water, and 2 bottles of Water Wetter.
* 160 degree thermo in hot summer California.
* Aluminum Radiator helps too.
* Aluminum Water pump helps too.
* Fresh oil changes. I use Valvoline 20/50 race or Kendall 40.
* Change out water end of summer and replace with more anti-freeze for the winter. Don't forget!

on 100 degree day, my 428CJ now runs 180 degrees, and barely gets to 190 with these changes incorporated. I found that people put too much antifreeze in. Purified water dissapates heat much faster, better. Add Water Wetter too! Mine cools so much I have to put a 180 degree thermo back in for winter time.

Good Luck.

[Chifo Jr]

Mike: I did get the fan but like ever other job it will enatil more modifications. I have to remove the radiator and have the lower outlet extended as the lower liine wont clear the shroud. While I have the radiator out I will pull the heads to verify that the head gaskets are positioned properly.

Duane: Thanks for the input. I have tried just about all of your tips except a new radiator. This type is being used on bigger motors so I am assuming it is sufficient.

Pete Chifo, Jr.

[decooney]

Chifo,

oh... one other thing. I had a friend who ran out out options on his car, and we finally determined his cam was not installed correctly. It was running so hot the headers would glow at night. He finally figured it out after he got rid of the car. Don't give up, I hear those 351Cs sound pretty nice.

What is your timing set at (initial and full advance)? Also, you might want to have your existing radiator flow-tested. Just a thought.

Did you buy your car recently? Is it the black one with Red stripes? If so, I may have seen it when it was for sale... I tried to get my friend to buy a similar one. See Ya.

[Monster]

Pete,
I'm with Duane, Thats pretty much the list of things I did to get my car to cool down. Speaking of cooling, while at Reno I was sitting in heavy traffic (their signals are all out of time and the wait between lights is about 3+ mins.) Anyway all of a sudden my car started getting hot (210+) I thought that it was because of the heat (95+) .When I got home I found that the power wire for my fan was a loose connector making intermittent contact causing my fan to irratically go on and off. It had me worried because I had told you how good the Black magic was working for me .

take care,
MIke

[Bluesman]

15X10 in the front with a 5" backspace.
15X12 rear with a 5" backspace.
the 295's actually rub just a tad under sever road conditions.
They rub just a little along the inner wheel well behind the seat backrest area.

[lal Naja]

I hope that there are a few of you out there that have discovered new info on wheels and tires for the Butler Cobra. I have P275/50 R15 on front 9" x 15" Centerline rims and 295/50 R15 on 12" x 15 Centerline on the rear. I would like to know if anyone has a tire selection that will fit this setup. Is it time for an upgrade to 17" rims? Looking forward to the input.

Thanks all, Arthur

[bakbutler]

Roy
I just put a set of Mickey Thompson Radials on mine. 28-12-15 rear, and
26-10-15 fronts. After adjusting the coil-overs, I have no rubbing. The car is primarily a street car (have not tracked it yet), but have driven it fairly aggressively through the twisties. I don't recall what my back spacing is but it is stock butler. I am running anti roll bars (sway bars) both front and rear and the car corners well with very little body lean.
Leo

[bakbutler]

Sorry guys
did not realize this thread was this old.
Ralph
I hope this info gives you something to look at. Purchased the tires through Summit.
Leo

[lal Naja]

Glad you did. I'm looking for new tires. I've not had a chance to look at the tires you suggested but are going to do so after this.

Thanks,

Arthur

[lal Naja]

Originally Posted by bakbutler

Roy
I just put a set of Mickey Thompson Radials on mine. 28-12-15 rear, and
26-10-15 fronts. After adjusting the coil-overs, I have no rubbing. The car is primarily a street car (have not tracked it yet), but have driven it fairly aggressively through the twisties. I don't recall what my back spacing is but it is stock butler. I am running anti roll bars (sway bars) both front and rear and the car corners well with very little body lean.
Leo

Leo, when you say you had to adjust the coil-overs, do you mean that you had to raise the car to clear the larger diameter back tires? If so what is your ride height. The distance between the bottom of the frame and the ground at the corner of the frame right in front of the back tire?

Also what is distance at corner behind front tire?

Thanks,

Arthur

[bakbutler]

Arthur
rear height at frame is 7" Front height at frame is 6"
ground to fender lip
rear 28 1/2
front 26 1/2
I can probably drop the rear another 1/2" frame to floor, but that would be about it.
Hope this helps
Leo

PS fast cars ifs will probably be my next upgrade.