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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 10:17 PM
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Ha.. I like the idea of filling it with the minced meat, bananas and what have you though Could be my contribution to the Chrissy BBQ....
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 10:22 PM
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Have the driveshafts out to the wheels been phased correctly when shortened....Just trying to eliminate other possibilities... I seen alot of funny things happen...also if the unijoints in these shafts haven't been replaced they are possibly worn... then when you put them in the cobra and work them at greater angles they can vibrate because the needles are trying to work through the worn spots on the cup and the uni
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 11:31 PM
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On my first track day outing I heard this horrible wailing noise. I looked around and saw it was Gav sitting in the passengers seat.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 12:55 AM
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I did have tears in my eye's, but it was from laughing as we spun out onto the infeild Mr Murphy!
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 12:59 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival CR3516, LS3, Aussie Mike'd T-56, 3.70 LSD, AP brakes, Penske shocks
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could the alignment/mounting of the diff in the chassis be off-skew?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 04:09 AM
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Default All different setups for rearends and bearings

redmt Red There is a big different between bearing perload on different rearends. Also with and without new bearings. Like you I have been setup up rearends for a long time, most are for the race track. I run them tight. With new bearings in Dana or Salibury rearends I run 25 inch drag, With old bearings I use 10-12inch pounds. I have been running the rearend in my car with a 3.31 gearing. I am using a Detriot locker from a dana 44 jeep housing and in a jag rearend with 30 spline stubs from CWI. I had a bad bearing in the r/s stub shaft and replaced it, other than that 14 years of abuse and no failures. I have not worked on ford 9" rears. Dana's 30,44,60,70,80 and GM 8.5, 10 bolt, and 12 bolt.

Side note about changing fluid, after this is done go to a parking lot and do 10 hard circles to the left and then 10 to the right. then 5 each way. This is to get new fluid between the cluch discs and stop chatter. Under you are in a warm climate, 140weight is way too heavy for rearends. 80-90 is fine. If your fluid gets that hot, add a cooler and pump to the rearend. You can go electric or drive off the pinion yoke depending on room in the back of the car. Rick L.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 01:52 PM
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"do 10 hard circles to the left and then 10 to the right. then 5 each way. This is to get new fluid between the cluch discs and stop chatter."

Good simple advice that can be overlooked or forgotten there Rick.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 06:52 PM
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Hmmm... Wonder if the local constabulatory would cop that as a reasonable excuse for doing Donuts in the local carpark !!! Sorry officer just running in the Diff.... As they take possession under the new hoon laws..
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2011, 03:25 PM
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Default Evan Foley contact numbers

Hi, I am wishing to get a quote on a Bentley from Evan Foley in Burwood, but the phone listing is wrong. Anyone know a new number or email.
Please contact me direct on email rod@tr.com.au
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 12:20 PM
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This reminds me of my experience getting my T-10 rebuilt. It took three different shops before it was done right. It may be that your guy is just plain incompetent. If you can find a shop that does it right and they find evidence of bad work inside then you may be able to get your money back from the first one. Of course you first need to rule out problems coming from the exterior of the rear.
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