Door anti intrusion bars

[Outwest34au]

Since we all like pics....

The old Evans kit has a C section anti intrusion bar in place. Something a bit stronger would make me feel safer.




Knocked up a 40 x 6 mm flat frame that welds to the extremities of the existing setup. Very easy job, adds some extra protection.
the blue foam we all recognise as crash pad foam from our camping trips helps hold the curve in the outer door skin. Makes for a pretty solid door you can slam the crap out of with the skin on, you can lean the knee right into it and it's all good. Pity the wanker who kicks the doors in oneday.



The yellow things are tile wedges, stuck on with double sided emblem tape. This allows for the outer skin to be lined up neater with the body. Hoping minimal filler is required externally.

[Rob. Smith]

Nice job. That's probably 200 % over what production cars have.

[boxhead]

Looking really good.

Only question I have is, can you access inside the door once you have bonded outer skin on?
Incase you need to replace a door latch or the cable stretches/snaps in the future?

[Outwest34au]

Thanks guys for some feedback.
Rob, When the missus got T boned and tore the door skin off the EF Falc I though the window winder mechanism was the strongest anti intrusion framework. I do understand they are all strategically engineered though and this is brute force approach.

Boxy, "Planning is everything" (you can use that freely without accreditaion to me)
The door handle is simple GH type sigma, cut the top tang off and weld it on the end with a tacked nut added. It is very easy removed from the inside. The one in the pic looks daggy yeah, but I will make a few spares identical while I have the chance, even though the sigma handles don't fail often.
The door latch assy. is XD - XF type and if you wash them up well and stuff them with good lube they open uber easy. Red dirt is thier enemy. The cable is retained on the latch end by a loop, it is held by 2 pram wheel clips (one way barbed type things) They are a New Holland tractor part and easy to get. The latch is easy removable when the door is open with the standard 3 Falcon screws.
For when the cable fails??? there is a small (3 mm) hole drilled to pop it with a stiff wire or whatever. The cable is a bit smaller than I would like in diameter, it is 70 Lb fishing trace wire, nylon coated, more than adequate numerically for a good clean latch etc, but, we know doors always work perfectly huh? (not). It happens that the ferrules for this size trace fit neatly in my Duetch plug crimpers (4 way crimp) so thats the way I went. The cable can be installed or extracted easily enough (minor root around). I will take measurements and make some spares also, they are cheap cheap.

The other door has a small access rectangle cut in it which will be smaller and tidier on the passengers door shown. Through it I can remove the pulley wheel if ever need be.

I spend a lot of time and beer on R and D, but mostly I like to be able to fix things simply. Called the HQ approach.

One thing I didn't research properly... the curved plates on the door bar held solenoids that electrically opened each or both doors at once or seperately, it was my bit of "cool" but obviously isn't acceptable for rego.

[boxhead]

Certainly sounds like you have thought of it all.

I used 100lb nylon coated fishing steel braid
With the correct crimps (I used to chase Marlin and Tuna when living in Tully)
Even so mine has stretched over the years.