Vintage wheels vs Team 111

strida · #1 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 05:06 PM

Looking for Halibrand style wheels from O/S for Classic Revival (new chassis).
Anybody with experience re max wheel width (17" diameter) and fitment on CR.
Pin drive or bolt on options acceptable
Cr recommends 10" rear and 8" fronts, spoke to Ian (CR) some time back who advised me that 10.5" was okay on rear as long as the extra 1/2" was on the inside of the rim.
I recall Tenrocca posted a pic quite a while back of a new chassis CR with Team 111 wheels and tyres fitted but pic was from unknown source.
Also looking at OZ wheels locally, but pricey by comparison. About $750 a corner (bolt on).

Any advice or info would be appreciated.

Dennis

Aussie Mike · #2 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 05:28 PM

I'm running 11" rims on the rear of my CR with plenty of clearance. When I built the new rear end I made sure nothing rubbed anywhere through the full travel. I reckon I could possible squeeze a 17x12" rim in there but it would be close.

Note though I built a whole new rear end and relocated the upper shock mounts on the chassis for better clearance. I'm not sure how you would go with Ian's new chassis design.

Cheers

gjkrv8 · #3 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 07:06 PM

Hi Dennis,

I spent a lot of time trying to find wheels oseas but the problem was not in the size/backspace etc but the stud spacing. Known as PCD (pitch circle diameter )
(I really wanted the toprque thrust wheels)
The VZ/VE pattern used on the CR is a PCD of 120mm which is a GM Europe thing.

The GM USA PCD is 4.75" (120.65mm).

I was advised not to try and fit the GM wheels to the VZ/VE hubs as it put too much stess on the studs.

One alternative I leared later was that some wheel manufacturures in USA could send the wheels without the holes and get them done locally or they could customise it for you.

Also the centre hole diameter on the hubs are diferent front to back.

I went the lower risk option using the OZwheels as that is where Ian gets his. I didnt have to think about stuffing up the sizes etc.

Hope this helps.

Rgds

Gregg

Aussie Mike · #4 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 07:54 PM

Center bore to hub spigot size... Let me get my soap box. I've brought this up a few times and it's a real concern of mine. So many times I've seen people fit wheels without a correct center bore size and then have problems with broken wheel studs.

I think a lot of people don't realize that the wheel studs job is just to retain the wheel against the hub and transmit acceleration and braking loads. The hub spigot transmits all the suspension loads. If the center bore to spiggot doesn't match you need fit adapter rings to make up the difference.

With the Metric PCD there are ways around that. It's not difficult to re drill your hubs. Alternatively you can drill out the holes in the 4.75" PCD pattern in the wheels and use steel inserts to bring it back to 120mm PCD. There's not a lot of material to remove.

Cheers

Tenrocca · #5 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 09:43 PM

Dennis - The team 3 wheels in the flesh are very very nice. I think they look as nice as vintage wheels (when you use the nut covers), except you can get them in a bigger range of offsets. I think the minimum front space is 3.5" which makes them just fit in on the Falcon\Jag CR chassis. Dont know about offsets on the newer chassis.

Cheers

albanycobra · #6 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 10:16 PM

I have had both brands on different cars. Team 3 on the Daytona and Vintage wheels on my current GT40.

If I had my time again picking wheels for the 40 I would get them from Team 3.
My Team 3 wheels looked great, where finished to a high quality. I like that they polish the inside of the rim aswell.

My Vintage wheels had drama's with fitment, where supplied with the wrong knock on hubs. The paint job on the wheels looks like it was done with a spray can.....so bad infact that they need to be blasted and recoated. Vintage wheels are not ADR approved for Australia and have no JJ markings on them.

Krait · #7 (**permalink**) 03-02-2011, 11:35 PM

Vintage Wheels Inc or Vintage Wheel Works?

Cheers

DaveW · #8 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 03:57 AM

Offsets on the new CR chassis with VZ front / VE rear is 2.5" outside offset to hub flange on the front and 4.0" on the rear.

What was the previous chassis set up ?

regards
Dave

Tenrocca · #9 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 04:14 AM

I think the recommended was 2.5" front space front and rear - but this is pretty conservative. I wanted my wheels out as far as possible to give a little dish (still very little) and cos it looks better IMO. If you make sure the body is well centered on the old one you can just go to 3.5".

Tenrocca · #10 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krait

Vintage Wheels Inc or Vintage Wheel Works?

Cheers

Ill assume Albany Cobra is talking about Vintage wheels in his comparison, as it doesnt look like vintage wheel works do knock offs.

Dennis, you will also find that the Vintage wheels dont even come close to the offsets you need - particularly the fronts.

Cheers

Krait · #11 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tenrocca

Ill assume Albany Cobra is talking about Vintage wheels in his comparison, as it doesnt look like vintage wheel works do knock offs.

Cheers

Possibly, but the Halibrand look alikes on the Daytona in Albany Cobra's gallery are bolt on wheels.

My Cobra with VZ hubs is running Vintage Wheels Inc knock offs 17 x 8.5 with 5.00 backspacing on the fronts and 17 x 10.5 with 5.00 backspacing on the rears (Commodore with fabbed upright).

Cheers

Tenrocca · #12 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Krait

Possibly, but the Halibrand look alikes on the Daytona in Albany Cobra's gallery are bolt on wheels.

Cheers

I think he said the Daytona had the Team III's. I know of 2 classic revivals using the team 3 with nut covers and spinners, and it really is hard to tell they are bolt ons.

Heres one:

strida · #13 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 06:47 AM

Andrew,
Thanks for the close up pic of the Team111 wheel with lug cover, I guess I'm not too concerned wether they are pin drive or bolt on, but I would like the spinners/knock ons to be inside the edge of the rim and not sticking out like 007's Aston body shredders (like a damn blender).
Mike,
I'm with you on the hub spigot sizing and spoke to Scott from team3 a few weeks ago who understood the importance of this.

Dennis

Aussie Mike · #14 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 04:36 PM

Dennis, What's wrong with 007's Aston Martin style shredding spinners?

Mind your leg as I drive past.

They are tucked in a bit better now on the rear at least.

Dimis · #15 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 05:22 PM

Mike,

Have you got a photo of you rear wheel. I was hoping to see the dish depth.
Apologies for ambushing this thread...

Many thanks,
Anth

Aussie Mike · #16 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 05:43 PM

No tyre fitted but you can see the 2" of extra dish on the rear. These wheels are made by Ozwheels in NSW The pin drive adaptors came from Superformance.

boxhead · #17 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 06:22 PM

How thick is the pin drive adaptor? I guess atleast half inch, so if happy to run lug nuts you will pick up more dish.

leroy17 · #18 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 06:56 PM

There is a fair bit of metal at the back of these wheels, another 1/2 inch can be machined off to add to dish as well. However, ensure that there is clearance around wheel spokes for calipers and anything else that is there.

Pin drive adapters are 10mm (on mine), with machining the rear face and some sight machining on the spokes I have got an extra 1 inch of dish. This is on a Harrison thought... I know they are different.

spookypt · #19 (**permalink**) 03-03-2011, 10:21 PM

I have some custom team 3 on my car in 17's. Super deep dish. 10 front and 12 rear. They are very nice looking wheels...

strida · #20 (**permalink**) 03-04-2011, 03:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dimis

Mike,

Have you got a photo of you rear wheel. I was hoping to see the dish depth.
Apologies for ambushing this thread...

Many thanks,
Anth

Anth,
No problems, the more questions asked the more I learn.
Mike,
The problem with the VE commodore rear suspension on the new CR is that the distance hub face to hub face is still quite wide which reduces the amount of dish available on the rear wheels and I don't feel like re-engineering the rear end similar to what you did with the AU rear end. After taking some more measurements I could possibly go to 11" but it's not the width I'm chasing so much as deeper dish.
Maybe if I had been awake to this before buying the shorter half shafts it may have been an option.
I,m leaning more towards the Team 3 wheels at this point, I need to move forward (some damn politician said that) while the Aussie dollar is performing well, sorry about the 007 Aston comment although it looks like you've solved that.

Dennis