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Good idea Paul. I did the same with my axles. Had the CVs checked, re-packed and then re-booted. $100.00 - bargain! That rear end sounds a big job but worth doing. Used the solid ally collars on mine, as I was not keen on removing the diff and whole subframe at the time. All is much tighter now but you do get a bit more noise and vibration, as expected with all ally mounts on the frame and diff.
With that great rear end, you should be able to completely eliminate the problem that Harrisons can have with rear wheel offset and guard clearance. |
Here's hoping Merv. There's a bit more unsprung weight now though.
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BYCAS kit
A further update on the HICAS removal hardware. Originally I had planned to fit a "HICAS Eliminator" kit from Drfitworks (see this post), which replaces the outer tie rod ends and ball joints with brackets and bushes.
After a lot of reading I've decided to go with the Conceptua BYCAS kit, pictured below. This design uses rose joints at either end, giving much better rear toe control over the Nissan tie rods and bushes. It should also be an improvement over the above kit, as it does away with bushes altogether. http://i46.tinypic.com/vsif12.png Currently with the HICAS lockout bar in place, the factory inner and outer ball joints and tie rod ends are worn and need replacing, so this kit is far cheaper in the long run and also provides for easy toe adjustment via the spanner relief in the middle of the rod. At least the suspension bloke will be grateful for that. :D Further reading here. Does anyone know where to source dust boots for the rose joints? Edit: found a picture of the kit fitted to a car. http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/z...tted_Kit_1.jpg |
Thought I would share a highly advanced technique for removing pesky subframe bushes. Even after burning the rubber a fair amount of violence is required to chisel out the inner metal sleeves. I doubt Nissan expected the cars to last long enough for these to need replacing.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/P1020050.jpg |
Awesome info Sambo, thank you ;)
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Good work there Paul! What front callipers are you planning on?
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The burning subframe.........i remember it well, oxy and a lota cursing, bugger of a job.
Mine was sandblasted and powdercoated after and it comes up smick. |
Merv, Race Brakes recommend an AP four piston conversion for the front (commonly done for the Brute Utes) and the other suggestion from Kenmer has been Wilwood with an adapter plate which they can supply. I doubt I'll be replacing the fronts this side of xmas, just doing the back brakes properly for now.
I've painted one half of the cradle in POR-15 and it looks great. I might start another thread as I start to reassemble everything - if only to share the eye candy as I realise I'm not breaking any new ground here. :D |
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Guys you did it the hard way :CRY:
I just used a reciprocating saw with a metal blade and had the whole lot done in about 1-2 hrs and stuff all mess :eek: Cleaned up with a wire brush in the OLD Black & Decker then got the whole frame sandblasted at my local slipway in the afternoon and had it undercoated in KBS Rustcoat etc in time for tea. Pics to follow tomorrow Rog |
Alright smartypants".............as they say, there's more than 1 way to skin a cat :-)
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Just noticed Rog - you have Harrison number 100. Warwick throwing you a party yet? He should be. When are you planning on completion?
I think that Trevor Wright was 102 and Mick in Bundy was ... (not sure). Anyway 100 is good going for any kit manufacturer. I guess that CR and DRB are way ahead, however. |
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