DRB rebuild blog

[stephen low]

sorry guys a bit of a high-jack but maybe not.

Not sure what they are called but my neighbour installed new globes into his weekend toy 4WD (a really nice supercharger Rangie) that are ultra high lighting capacity with very little heat output and I think like an LED very low current draw too.

I wondered whether the tripod lights could support such a globe, anyone know?

I have always like the look of the tripods but haven't jumped, I might though dependant on the answer to the above.

Cheers

Steve

[boxhead]

The tripod lights I linked take a H4 (I think) bulb, so they are not sealed beam.
You could fit 60/130 if wanted.
But I think your reffering to HID lights, they require a small box to be fitted (I think it is a transformer of sorts?) the light given is a blue/white very bright.
I have not heard of any extra heat being given off because of them.

[stephen low]

Think your description matches Dave.

He had some form of small box to mount behind the light so again not a sealed beam so I'd assume they'd fit like an H4 perhaps.

The heat issue was that they give off bugger all heat despite their intense lumisense and they are bright. Also very low power draw two reasons why my neighbour has used them.
Steve

[boxhead]

We are looking at spotlights with this type of light for our 4X4 fleet

[Rob. Smith]

HID lights in the Nissan 350-Z are 20,000 volts. Take 10 seconds to reach full brightness and are blindingly white...funny though they have a limited range. You are driving into a wall of black ( lit up extremely well before the 'cut-off' point ) These particular lamps are obviously designed for city driving with street lights etc. It certainly raises the adrenaline on country roads with the thought of bouncing critters just outside the lit zone. Which I drive every morning / arvo, to and from work. High beam is wide and has more range though.

[Toecutter]

Well thanks to Mr. Boxhead another set of tripod lights arrived from the UK today. This presents a unique oportunity to show some pics with a light made for the US market (bought from Finishline) and a light made for the UK market. Both are manufactured by Lucas England.

[stephen low]

Make sure you have good connections to retain the smoke and get full lighting from these Lucas critters - lol

[Toecutter]

So the floors have now been cut out and the new plate sections have been welded in place. Only one small fire in the cockpit due to the tunnel trim but apart from that it all went smoothly. Tomorrow will see the undercoat and sealant applied and then it will be time to bolt in the seat runners and then the seats. Might even take it for a little blat if the rain holds off

[Mando]

Looks very neat, great job.

Regards.

[Tenrocca]

Originally Posted by Rob. Smith

HID lights in the Nissan 350-Z are 20,000 volts. Take 10 seconds to reach full brightness and are blindingly white...funny though they have a limited range. You are driving into a wall of black ( lit up extremely well before the 'cut-off' point )

This makes little sense unless they are aimed too low. Im no physicist but Im sure light doesnt suddenly drop off from being super bright to darkness because of the type of bulb was used to produce that light??

I gotta get me some of them tripods - they look great.

Nice work on the floor toecutter.

Cheers

[tomcat racing]

Originally Posted by Tenrocca

This makes little sense unless they are aimed too low. Im no physicist but Im sure light doesnt suddenly drop off from being super bright to darkness because of the type of bulb was used to produce that light??

I gotta get me some of them tripods - they look great.

Nice work on the floor toecutter.

Cheers

spot on andrew,i dont know what hes on there, ive got hid bulbs fitted to my rr sport and there is no wall or dropoff of light intensity at distance, they are super bright, the only drawback is the initial buildup time to get full power which is annoying, but then the ballast holds the power for a while when you dip back to low beam then back to high.

i bought the tripods as well after seeing boxheads thread

[Rob. Smith]

Originally Posted by tomcat racing

spot on andrew,i dont know what hes on there, ive got hid bulbs fitted to my rr sport and there is no wall or dropoff of light intensity at distance, they are super bright, the only drawback is the initial buildup time to get full power which is annoying, but then the ballast holds the power for a while when you dip back to low beam then back to high.

i bought the tripods as well after seeing boxheads thread

It's in the design of the projector lense the light beam throws down at low beam. like I said it's designed for city highway lighting. High beam is excellent.

[Toecutter]

So there is a little bit to catch up on. The lowering of the floor has been completed which is a complete succes
The undercoat after grinding

Sound deadener

Undercoat underneath followed by masking and Stoneguard

Adjusting the seat angle

The result = 80mm gain

[Toecutter]

Now the Cobra is a my mechanics workshop where we will remove the engine and start the hard yards.
The bottom end is together, ballanced and blueprinted. Ready for final assembly.

Current engine bay

What a mess!

The braced mains of the new 347 stroker

[img]http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/picture.php?
albumid=685&pictureid=6276&thumb=1[/img]

[boxhead]

Looking good, Make it all how you want it.

[stephen low]

Toecutter I assume by your commentary on your engine bay you are going to hide your wiring or not?

What other tidy up is planned?

[Toecutter]

Originally Posted by stephen low

Toecutter I assume by your commentary on your engine bay you are going to hide your wiring or not?

What other tidy up is planned?

Yes, we plan to hide the majority of the wiring, but the current contents of the engine bay (including the loom) will go into the same box as the current engine.
It will all be new and as neat as possible. Once we have stripped the bay then we'll drop in the new engine and make a plan as to where the wiring will go. Then we'll strip it again and start filling holes and adding pannels to give it a clean look. After that it will be rolled across the road to the pannel shop to have the engine bay and wheel arches painted in black.
Then it will be time to get the new bonnet and start building it again

[Toecutter]

So the basic donk is in, engine bay has been stripped and the custom headders are ready to be ceramic coated. The exhaust has been rebuilt with bungs and flanges in all the right places and 1 central high flow cat. The coating should be done and the engine should be out by the end of the week. Then it's off to get the engine bay done.

Before:

Current:




We've decided to try and resurect the original bonnet so I've removed the wide scoop for the standard HO manifold so that we can cut the correct sized hole for the new setup. I've ordered a scoop that I think might fit but in may need to be modified.. We will see.



There might be a hold up with some of the interior (and perhaps exterior) work, so we might just get the new engine run in before we make changes to the dash etc. But, it's all coming together.

[Towmaster]

Nice work, looking good.

[cameron02]

Looking good.

Is that one of those elec fuel injected manifold that looks like a carby setup or is it actually a carby setup? Either way it looks awesome