250 GTO - the enemy within! - Page 2

PeterAllen · #21 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 01:54 AM

Thought you might be interested is this.

I'm trying to use as many donor components as I can... I don't want to be stuck at Wheelabarrowback with a broken specialist component. I'm utilizing the GM in-tank pump and turned up an adaptor which was welded to the aluminium tank. All work quite well.

Aussie Mike · #22 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 01:56 AM

Rather than having that hoop mounting off the bottom of those brackets and then going up and over the diff why not have a plate going straight across the top between those two bolt in plates? It would be a lot simpler and probably a lot stronger. Just a suggestion.

Cheers

Ant · #23 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 02:26 AM

Good luck to you with your project, there was a 250GTO lookalike here in NZ, I spotted it at Ruapuna Park raceway just outside Christchurch, quite a good effort. The moral of the story is not to spend too much money on any kit car or project as it is definitely difficult to get it back, only time and inflation can help there.

Its more important to engineer your project nicely and have it finished properly in all areas. Progress pictures keep them coming!

PeterAllen · #24 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 02:27 AM

Mike - I'm not quite with you. Are you suggestion a solid mount?

I have rubber mounts between the hoop and the tunnel brackets - call me a wuss but it's for touring not racing. The big issue is the two front mounting bolts on the diff, which you have used, are set some way back and are much higher than the original diff bracket bolts on the tunnel. The rest of the shell is so light and weak I need to use original mounting points. There's a real cantilever problem with any design.

Tenrocca · #25 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 03:13 AM

Huhhh....what....did someone say gold wheels????

Anything but gold wheels and your safe.

Now.......Back to holidays.......Zzzzzzzzzzzzz

suthol · #26 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 03:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterAllen

Mike - I'm not quite with you. Are you suggestion a solid mount?

I have rubber mounts between the hoop and the tunnel brackets - call me a wuss but it's for touring not racing. The big issue is the two front mounting bolts on the diff, which you have used, are set some way back and are much higher than the original diff bracket bolts on the tunnel. The rest of the shell is so light and weak I need to use original mounting points. There's a real cantilever problem with any design.

G'day Peter,

Given that what you are doing is an ICV you will run the gauntlet that is the NSW RTA and there is no way a solid mounted diff will get through the drive by noise test as described in the ADRs.

750hp · #27 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 04:58 AM

LS = great engine. Z = competent chassis. 250 = classic shape.

Good combination!

Rob. Smith · #28 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 05:15 AM

Man the GTO / 240Z conversion was the first thing I wanted to build (after a mustang rebuild and my Datsun 1600 build) I couldn't find a decent 240Z. Then I got the Cobra bug. Decent Zeds are so hard to find now and it'd probably be better to restore them now. I looked long and hard at this 'kit' and it is one of the best conversions in the world ! ALAS when I was looking there was no restriction on horsepower increase ( 20% ??? crap) and the Ford 302 was the perfect. Do your best and make others green !

Rob. Smith · #29 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racco

I have some experience on this, you can copy a cobra and have an identical copy of the real car( same feel, look, power and enjoyment). The ferrari is impossible to copy with a datsun, you will need a ferrari250 gte donor and about 300k for the rebuild.
I don't want to be a wet blanket, but stick to the cobra copies

Hey racco show us some pics of your Cobra replica !

Rob. Smith · #30 (**permalink**) 07-05-2011, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gav

Who are you to tell this guy what to do?

There are loads of cars about that I think look crap, but that is just my opinion. If no positive can come from your comments keep them to yourself.

The Datto' conversion looks great, it will be a rocket with the LS transplant!
Have you thought to join a club as your car is based on a racecar from the same period as the cobra?
I am sure plenty of us look forward to following your build.

Gav

Good Onya Gav, well said. Remember the celica / Ferrari conversion ??? That WAS a piece of crap..this GTO jobby is nice.

Donunder · #31 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 12:45 AM

Pete I reckon most of the blokes on this forum are behind you all the way with this project, and the fact that one of our truly clever guys Aussie Mike has come onboard offering you solid advice on fabricating and build ideas will be of huge assistance to you.

I have not seen a completed 240Z/GTO replica but I would assume that the contemporary body dimensions are pretty much true to the original. Some earlier attempts were so out of kilter they were hideous. Does the fact that the GTO had a rather high roof line mean that you won't have to chop the Datto either to stay faithful to the GTO's lines?

Is the car registered? If so do you still have to present it for a full inspection or can you just advise of the engine swap because "the Zed's motor was beyond repair"? This would get you around the many ICV problems. In Qld I think you can go forward with engine technology eg; the LS motor into the Zed, but you can't go backwards, like putting a carbied 350 into a late model Commodore for instance.

Lots of photos and stories about the build please!!

boxhead · #32 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 01:01 AM

I doubt it will need to be re engineered as an ICV.
I am only guessing here, but would have thought that it would only need to be inspected by TAC for approval with larger motor, and with Peter fitting a different rear axle assy, that will need to be approved aswell.

This is the CR on Datsun Z body, retains the original turrent/roof.

Donunder · #33 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 02:00 AM

Thanks Box.
I hope Peter has a similar picture up on his workshop wall to keep the desire from flagging.
What a stunning car!

Aussie Mike · #34 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 02:04 AM

From what I've seen the most immediate differences from the original GTO is the length of the bonnet and the rear hatch. The GTO is longer in the hood or appears to be. It may also be the GTO is a bit shorter in the doors. The GTO doesn't have a rear hatch, just a small rectangular boot lid but I did see someone did a great conversion on the rear Datsun hatch area to make it look the same.

Gotta love the shape of that back end.

Cheers

Aussie Mike · #35 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 02:27 AM

Hi Peter,

Just looking at your pics again. Are you using the Commodore rear cover and it's one central rubber mount? I would be a little concerned about the strength of the whole thing if that were the case. The Commodore uses 4 bolt positions on top in conjunction with the one rear mount. Just using 2 at the front and one at the rear might put undue strain on that one rear mount. You might want to look at using a Falcon back cover with 2 mounts or check the later Nissan rear covers as some of them may have the same rear cover bolt pattern (Some of them use the same gear sets as the Commodore).

Cheers

Baz · #36 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 03:14 AM

My favoutite Ferrari. Promotes half a bar every time I see one. I might even consider swapping my Cobra for an orirgonal 250 GTO with low miles, never raced sporting NSW Rego.

Baz

suthol · #37 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 03:21 AM

Probably the easiest diff swap will be to the Hitachi R200 as used in the skyline, it is the same family as the R160 that the 240Z uses but hugely stronger and there are plenty of threads about swaps from the R160 up to the R200 for various Datsuns / Nissans.

For all those out there who love the NCOP the latest version ( VSB 14 v2 ) which has had input from all states and looks like being adopted by NSW sometime this year states that an engine swap other than an original OEM option deems the car to be an ICV, as does a change of track beyond a certain amount or a change in wheel base.

Regards
Dave King

PeterAllen · #38 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 10:23 PM

Guys - I could write the equivalent of War and Peace on the project - so far! I have had two articles published in the Australian "Custom Kit Car' over the last couple of years so some of you may be aware of it.

The mechanicals are more or less done and I'm just about to start on the bodywork. Mike, I have utilised the top mounts on the diff and if I have a photo I'll include it. [(edit) - attached. Still something of a work in progress]

Bodywise the 240Z is 100mm shorter in the wheelbase but the bigger issue is the waistline/firewall which is too high. I'm in the process of modifying fibreglass doors to give a more GTO height and profile.

My obsession is so bad I'm off to Pebble Beach next month for the Concours as there will be over 20 of the 36 GTOs ever made on display. I've never seen one in the flesh.

Modena · #39 (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 11:26 PM

Quote:

My obsession is so bad I'm off to Pebble Beach next month for the Concours ...

it's good to know that you recognise you've got a problem - you'll fit in well here.

welcome

PeterAllen · #40 (**permalink**) 07-07-2011, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suthol

...For all those out there who love the NCOP the latest version ( VSB 14 v2 ) which has had input from all states and looks like being adopted by NSW sometime this year states that an engine swap other than an original OEM option deems the car to be an ICV, as does a change of track beyond a certain amount or a change in wheel base.

Regards
Dave King

Dave - I went through all those Nissan diff options but I settled on the Holden for parts supply reasons. There were issues with the Nissan CVs.

The RTA has been telling me they will adopt the NCOP "soon" for the past 5 years. Actually it's easier for me me under NCOP but it passes the present RTA standards anyway (eng capacity, etc). My engineer has classified it as a modified and not an ICV and has allocated me a certification number. He tells me all I have to do is meet the requirement of that date, i.e. last September. Can people comfirm that is the case?

I hope to have it finished in 18-24 months, but I said that 3 years ago!

Some general project photos for those interested.